CLOSED JD Fabrication/81Trekker Suspension Group Buy CLOSED

@Arcticelf super jealous! Your reward for hosting the group buy is the first shafts! Congrats!

Got some progress in this weekend. Keeping in mind I'm adapting this to fit my FJ which I knew was going to be more involved than the Tacoma that they were designed for. Mine needed some material removed from the upper point of the rear most bracket and some detailed minor reliefs on the front brackets to allow me to slightly roll the mounts up at the outer edge and into position. The front bracket nested super nice in the edge of the pocket. All of the mounting ears followed the same contours as the FJ frame. My biggest issue was the 2nd mounting ear from the front. Right out of the gate, I had an issue with a large gap at that point. After figuring out what needed massaging, and using a jack and old ratchet straps, I was able to get everything brought right into position. Also of note for the FJ, the front driver's side skid plate mount had to have the edge trimmed off to fit around the diff mount. I'll probably just weld a nut on there. I'm not sure if it's because I've wheeled hard in the past, or if it's because the FJ is different than the Tacoma, but all 4 of the holes that this LCA subframe mount to are present on the FJ, but the fitment is ever so slightly off. Like about 1/2 a bolt hole diameter.

Something else that is certainly worth mentioning for anyone else looking to use the Tacoma LCA mounts for the FJ: The LCA centerline spacing side to side is just about 1" narrower on the FJ Cruiser. Now, before you scream at me about this, I have a game plan for my setup. But I can see where you could run into issues with camber figures (or worse like axle length) if you're not careful. Before this install, my alignment was justified almost fully to the outside of the cam slot. With the new brackets, the center line adjuster position is in the same position when all the way to the inside. This leaves almost no room for adjustments to reduce camber, so I'm planning on using my hiemed upper to assist if needed. I'm also hoping this doesn't cause issues with my axle length. I'm anxiously awaiting my 934 setup, so we shall see.

If you're wondering if the kit could simply be narrowed to fit? I looked at that as it was my first thought as well, but the brackets actually looked like they fit up pretty well at the spacing received which is why I elected to install as is.

I have no information on bump stop interactions as I had already cut mine off to go hydraulic. I've got a set of compacts from King for the fronts and standard 2" for the rears. It looks like the bump stop pad is at least 1/2" thinner on the compact when compared to the standard. So hopefully that will mean less time riding on them. If push comes to shove, I'll shorten them or discharge them for street use. Maybe I can get a picture of the two different bumps later, as I think the compacts may be a good solution for reducing the length while keeping the bump travel....

 

Starting to make progress. The funny shaped plate in with your axles is the frame plate, henceforth called a "wibble". Easy enough to trim the frame with an angle grinder to expose the hole you need to plate over.

It's so very close it fitting with no cutting, but alas it's not to be. Remember to cut enough off the frame to account for the thickness of the wibble and your welds when covering the hole.

Back on the bench, old vs new. It's not even a comparison how beefy these new axles and CVs are.

I'm working on an easier way to take old axles apart to re-user the outer CV, more to follow, once I get all the CV grease cleaned up.

 

Looks beefy. Are you going with the pipe slam method?

 

I tried it on the first one I took apart without success. The inner birfield joint is at a machine shop with a 100 ton press today.

 

The inner birfield was easy for me. The outer is the one that is giving me a hard time.

 

The outer should be really easy, there is a clip just above the tripod bearing you need to remove, then either use a 3 jaw puller or put the tripod in a vice and drive it out with a hammer.

 

I have them backwards. We are having the same issue.

 

Great work! It's good to hear someone else that has a tweaked frame made the kit work. I'm going to have similar issues.

Icon top hat bolts are garbage. That's the fourth set I've see with the exact same issue. not sure why that is.

Can someone elaborate on the trimming for the bump stops? At least where to start reading. I'm not planning on running hydros with this kit.

 

you had it right, outer CV is a birfield joint (the bitchy one) inner is a tripod bearing. Much easier with a 3 jaw than a 2 jaw puller.

 

This is a good idea. I can totally see things flexing/moving after some abuse, or even simply due to the welding, that would put the bolt threads in a bind with the front most support. Which would ruin the bolt on the way out, and prevent a new bolt from going in. I'm going to weld mine now that you've mentioned it. In fact, I wonder why those are designed to be sandwiched instead of welded?

 

Go back a page, there are pictures from mine and others that show where you have to notch the underside of the bumpstop bracket to clear the tab on the kit. Or you can notch the tab on the kit to clear the bumpstop bracket, but the kit has 1/4" steel, the frame bracket is thin and easy to cut...

My advice is to trim slowly, carefully, so that it can immediately be welded back to the tab on the kit without huge gaps. That would be better, than having to invent a plate/gusset system after it is cut to far back to weld directly.

 

I used my 20 ton press. The tripod bearing was cake.

 

They are suppose to be welded and we do not so this kit is easier to install on a bent frame... especially since most guys wanting this kit have already done some damage

 

LT kits and steering back from laser cutter... big $$$ in cromoly!

 

I really like that is was sandwiched for assembly purposes. The bolt and cross bar held the bracket right where I needed it, along with a good starting point for frontal alignment. I think it's supposed to welded, but also make installation way easier.

I really like how the kit went together. It is very well thought out. Leaving freedom of adjustments where needed, while having hard set points for indexing. Maybe I didn't convey that with my previous posts because of the FJ/tacoma differences. Aside from the cutting and grinding labor, it was pretty smooth.

 

Alrighty... my LCA kit install is now all wrapped up and completly done....but not without 1 issue that had to be remedied after my alignment. This is most likely only an issue with the type of TC LCA's that I have. TC welded a skidplate to this particular model arms so they are pretty thick. Since both my front LCA attach points are cam'd all the way in they sit pretty deep into the attachment pockets. With that, when my arm drooped out it contacted the lower gusset between the 2 front LCA arm attach points. I cut back the gusset about 1/4 inch and got the clearance needed at full droop. I wasnt surprised by this since the stock LAC tabs also had to be clearanced to fit these particular LCA's. Pics are below
The guys at the alignment shop I took it too were in awe of the kit and actually had to pull the front LCA bolts to flip the cams for the adjustment and were really really impressed with that feature. Mind you this is a place that gets their fair share of custom and 1 off vehicles to align. These guys are geniuses when it comes to Alignments IMO. It's Bear Brake and Alignment in Corona. There are others Bears out there but I trust these guys in particular.

Bear Brake and Alignment


LCA contacting the gusset


1/4inch cut off....dont worry...I cleaned up the cut and painted it after the pic


Steel Skid plate with a hole I cut in it for oil changes.....yes I'm that lazy that I dont even want to remove the skid for oil changes

 

The hole in the skid plate is a good idea...

 

But it’s at Toyota, I didn’t think you ever had to change fluids?