ADS Off-Road Racing Shocks - Information, Pictures, & BS Thread

Ah okay so you know your shit, my bad NGL your first post kinda read like you were trolling or knew nothing like 'will these 4.0 race shocks fit my taco?' 'whats the most expensive shocks i can put on my road only daily?' ... that's been more the pace of things here lately lol

 

How is the factory valving in Ads shocks? Anyone directly compared Stock Ads to accutune fox shocks?

 

here is what Matt @ MCM Fab had to say when I asked about valving and clickers. I had specifically asked him how I had read about the factory valving being more for the high speed desert stuff, and I was concerned that I’m on the east coast where we have more woodsy and rocky trails = slower speed wheeling.

“The ADS adjusters do have high and low speed changes, they are just not independent of each other. They have a needle valve that controls the low speed changes, and valve shims that control the high speed changes.

The ADS should still be a good fit for you, they run a flutter stack to keep it compliant on the smaller stuff without giving up much on the bigger stuff, and of the low speed technical stuff isn't going to be affected as much by the valving. Most times the tire pressure is going to play a bigger role on hard technical stuff.”

 

Unless ADS is custom valving the shock specific to your trucks weight & terrain preference, they do not compare.

 

This...

I believe 100% that tuning a 2.5 is better than a crazy 3.5 lol.

but yea, they offer the same type of spec out questions about the truck, use, weights, MR, tires etc etc etc for when ordering. All of which Is for that base line valve stack.

I do not know what their revalve policy is etc.
I did run a set of their 2.5 coilovers on a hastily built by me 4 linked one ton truck. The standard valving that they sent on the specs I have were pretty close. It rode amazing, I just chased spring rates for a while.

 

I would hardly say I know my shit but I’ll take the compliment. I make a huge mistake posting on the forums. I try to stay humble in my posts on subjects to hopefully not sound like “mr know it all baja 8000”.
Often it comes around wrong or I end up having to explain forever I’m not a 17 yr old trying to do what ever... (intention never transmits well via computer)

anyways, back to the point, this is as much about adding to my personal knowledge as it is appeasing a wife’s question.

Full disclosure, the truck isn’t a yota. But it is the same class truck with similar traits and my trucks community Has more in common with the Prius or leaf community than it does with off-roading or technically knowledge. (Colorado zr2)

I could only dream of a thread with a 1/4 of the detail this thread does in any of the Colorado communities. The community is so bad that a few of the large aftermarket suspension companies did research on wether or not to make parts for the platform and all found that the community is just too cheap and to brainwashed on an oe platform. The camaro shares the engine and transmission and even most of those companies don’t bother cross advertising....

So King is it for the fronts, and they did a bottom basement job and i believe they just released the version they had been contracted to possibly make an oem set up (like the fox for Toyota and Ford), but their contract was cancelled.

I have a set of the oem extended travel king 2.5 with comp adjusters and a pair of 2.5 bumps that are spacered to 2 inches I think. With a set of uniball uca’s.
I wanted to run the ads coilover in front but they do not make an oem upper mount. (I have considered selling then king coilover minus the top mounts and ordering an ads 8 inch 3.0 when I relocate the upper shock tower... that’s after next winter)

The rear is a 2.5 bump, deaver leaf under. I spoke with a gentleman at ADS about the plan and he suggested their 3.0 bypass built for leafs. Valved for the “everything but the kitchen sink” I carry and the type of driving I’m slowing down in my old broken age.

this is the first vehicle I did not build myself due to having become disabled and I’m just in too much pain to use a tube bender... let alone be twisting and turning etc.

so I’m standing by to stand by as someone else is in charge of the bed rack and bypass rack build...

The truck is cursed. Being it’s the first truck or car I did not build myself, I have been on the learning end of the shit end of the stick when I comes to dealing with companies and getting burned.

@AccuTune Offroad actually referred me to the guy who is repairing a ton of damage done by a well known race company and is doing the bed rack fabrication. Slowly... sadly... and $$$.

 

Interesting. Have you looked into Kibbetech? They did a really nice ZR2 build and you might be able to pick their brains a bit as far as specs and fab work goes.

https://www.instagram.com/p/B6lu1uvgOGf/?igshid=25hxqrggzbso

 

Yes. Their front is nice. Was not a fan of their rear.
I spoke with him when he was about 80% done and he was less than helpful about discussing what my $26k would be buying.
It was a lot of “pay up, don’t you know who I am. My clients don’t ask.”

 

Btf was supposed to do the work being done now, but when it got to d day they were really busy and said they were about a year and a half out. Which was weird. Seemed a “we don’t want to do it”

here is a pic of the front suspension as it sits now. Awaiting rear shocks

 

Couldn’t find the length of coil springs for the ADS 2.5 remote reservoir. I saw on headstrong off road that you can order 600,650,or 700 lb springs but no info on length ?
I’m mostly all stock up front. Aluminum IFS skid and removed sway bar. Rear has ARE shell/RTT. Would it be recommend to get the 600lb spring rate ? Not planning on front bumper/winch. I might add sliders at some point.

 

Coil springs on most mid-travel coilovers are going to be in the 13" to 14" range. ADS used 14" Eibach coils in their 'off the shelf" setups.

 

To add to this. A 650lb 13” is not the same as a 14” when it comes to desired ride quality

Choose wisely

 

To throw an even bigger wrench into this mix, I'm going with a 16", 650lb coil. Wuddup, riddle me that, batman.

 

Just for discussions sake. The oem king for the 2015+ chevy Colorado zr2, both v6 and diesel (400# heavier on the nose) uses a 16 inch 600 and 650# spring depending on bumper and armor.
It used to be a 14 inch 600 or 650.

it seems very very tall. I’m awaiting rear ads bypasses to sit the truck on the ground and see how much it has lifted.

It looks like there is A sale going on at bajakits... maybe go bajakits with my extended travel Kings and an ads bypass

 

Going to try and get my fronts on this weekend. I’m not looking forward to adjusting the coils to get me to 2.5-2.75” front lift. I have a really long hardened steel 5/16” punch, so I hope that does the trick and some lube on the threads.

 

That's interesting that they run that length spring from OEM, it seems like instead of using a heavier spring, they opted just to preload a longer one. I can't say I agree with that decision on the part of the engineers but they do run those multimatic shocks so maybe those work wonders with that amount of preload.

For stock suspension on a Tacoma, 14" is the max I'd run on an OEM replacement coilover. I was just being facetious, because I'm moving to an 8" travel coilover for 3.5 over.

 

Sorry that was the “OEM Series” replacement king coil over.
The factory stuff as a 14 inch spring that is 587 and 680 gas vs diesel

The OEM multimatic shock and spring uses 2 inches of preload

Both platforms use the same valving in the shock. And they are both very under valve and a very little nitrogen. They are quite the gimmick

 

16" Long spring, is this for a long travel coilover?

Also, we have good info on spring rates for Tacomas here:
https://accutuneoffroad.com/articles/coilover-spring-rates-for-toyota-tacoma-4runner/

 

How much do you change valving between the different spring rates? If I plan to upgrade suspension at the "mid point" in my build is it reasonable to opt for a lighter spring then swap the springs after adding weight? Or is the valving different enough between say a 14" 600lb setup and a 14" 700lb setup that changing valving would be necessary?