Max towing capacity

Thinking about travel trailer, how much weight can my 03 Tacoma 4x4 ext cab with a 3.4 auto could safely tow ? Thanks for ant info,

 

It should be printed on the door jam sticker I believe, unless they weren't doing it back then for some reason.

 

Your truck, (same as mine) is rated for MAX towing of 5,500#, so realistically, look for a travel trailer not more than 1/2 that weight, or you will be VERY disappointed in towing ability in "all" conditions (in my opinion). I am looking at getting a small travel trailer too. Been looking at something like an 18' RPod.

Before I bought this Tacoma, I had a Ford Super-Duty Crew cab diesel (2009 F350) that I towed a 28' Passport tandem axle travel trailer with and got 11MPG while towing it! With this Tacoma (3.4L auto), I towed an EMPTY 7x14 enclosed trailer to CO from GA, and got as low as 7MPG. I think the trailer was 2,100# empty.

 

They are rated for a 5000# towing capacity. The tow hitch might say 5500 with a weight distributing hitch, but they're rated for 5000 from the factory, and that cannot be changed.

I used to tow a 1800# (dry) popup trailer with my 2004 3.4L 4x4. And I honestly wouldn't want to tow much more than that. Loaded down for a week or so of camping, and I bet it was only pushing 2500#, certainly no more than 3k. Unless I wanted to firewall the skinny pedal going up I-80 into the Sierras, I'd be in the slow lane with the 18 wheelers doing 45mph.

If you live in the flats you can get away with towing more, but I see no reason to try and push the max weight rating. That's a MAX rating, typically only good for short distances, and very occasional use. If you make a habit out of towing, less is more.

 

Very good common sense info here. Keep it up. As always towing and pulling is one thing. STOPPING is another and shouldn't be forgotten about ...

 

The real critical point is figure your weight loaded out ready to go.

Weight adds up so fast add a child or two into the mix clothing food Water ??

 

Thanks for your input everyone, kids have been gone for some time. Have great grand kids now. So just me and the wife. As I said was just thinking about it for just a few weekends. Was going to look at used, if we don`t like it well not to much spent. And yes about the Taco brakes not the best. Thanks again.

 

I tow 4,000lb travel trailer all over the country with my 2003 3.4 auto trans. No problems. Been over a couple passes in Colorado. You aren't going to win any races but that's not the point. More than the passes / grades crosswinds on the plains will where you out.

Also, keep in mind weight isn't everything. Aerodynamics play just as much a role. I think they say more than 70% of drag is generated by vortices off a flat rear trailer (youtube it). Something shaped like an rpod with equal weight to a standard shaped trailer will tow better.

Maybe the more important thing to consider is how much you can stop, not how much you can tow. Invest in a good brake controller (ie Tekonsha), sway control and weight distribution hitch (highly recommend Andersen).

 

The limiting factor with all 1/2 ton and smaller trucks is payload and GVWR. All of them will max out payload before you get to max tow rating. There is a sticker on the drivers door, or door jamb with both listed. The payload listed is your GVWR minus what the truck actually weighed when it was built. If you've modified the truck in any way, or if you have tools, etc. that stay in the truck that affects true payload.

The best thing to do is actually weigh the truck and subtract that number from GVWR. That is how you'll determine how much you can tow.

For example my truck has 1200 lbs payload, but I have a 180 lb cap on it making my true payload 1020 lbs. A 4000 lb trailer will put 520 lbs on my trucks suspension. That leaves 500 lbs for me, passengers, and cargo in the truck. My wife and I combined weigh 360 lbs leaving 140 lbs for other gear in the truck. That's cutting it pretty close and I'd have to pack carefully.

My truck is rated to TOW 6500 lbs and it won't have any issues pulling the weight. But a 6500 lb trailer would severely overload my trucks suspension. If I were to remove the cap I'd gain another 180 lbs for cargo, but still wouldn't make a significant difference in how heavy a trailer I could tow. Taking the cap off and leaving my wife at home might make a little difference. But my wife wouldn't be happy about that.

When towing you have to consider 3 things. How much weight can the truck pull, how much payload do I have, and how much weight is the hitch rated for. The trailer has to meet all 3 criteria.

 

Half of max capacity (6500) for dry trailer weight is a good rule of thumb for most people. I've been maxed out and then some in Tacomas and I wouldn't recommend it for inexperienced people.

 

Sub'd. I am considering getting a camper with having kids now versus a ground tent or RTT life.
I am concerned about towing with a 1st gen living in upstate NY. Most of our camping is the Catskill, Adirondacks, or the Green Mountains in VT. Not ideal towing elevations.

I am considering a small popup of single axle with a max weight of 2500. Once your consider coolers, kayak, water, food, firewood, all the family camping junk, there could easily be an addition 700lbs.
The number one concern would be good trans fluid, an aux trans cooler, and good brakes.

 

I've done close this myself and agree. I had two motorcycles (700/650) and the trailer with added wood deck (400) so was just about at 1800 and going up the hills in WV was torture. I was lucky to be doing 40 pegged @ 3k in 3rd, sometimes downshifting to 2nd on the long stretches. Then having to keep the brakes in check going down the other side. Really wish I had the TBU done then as I noticed even coming down the Appalachian in 7 Springs the brake shudder.

^this here from both of them. it's not just trailer, it's everyone and everything you put in the truck and trailer. TBU and possible trailer brakes for the downhill, SC if you wanna spend more for the uphill. just don't think of it as a diesel towing rig, it's a light duty towing vehicle.

definitely trans cooler and TBU for the Catskills will help out

 

Tundra brakes are amazing. I just added a Long 4454 ATF cooler after reading thread after thread about how much the A340 series transmission really dislikes towing.

 

That's because it was never really designed to tow. It'll do it, but Tacoma's aren't great tow rigs.

Tundra brakes are cool, but any trailer over ~2000# is going to have trailer brakes. If you're needing extra big brakes on your tow vehicle to slow your trailer down, you don't have your trailer's brakes set up properly.

 

Just completed our annual Nashville TN to Pinedale Wyoming trip. 3,000 miles round trip.

This time I added 275lbs in the form of a 1984 Honda XL185. Although this put me right at my GCVWR the truck did great. So, if you're wondering what you can tow, hopefully this example helps. Don't plan on getting anywhere fast, but I was still able to manage an ave cruise of 70mph (at aprox 9mpg).

Overall amazing trip and did some good off roading both with the truck and Honda (nursed the little XL up to 11,000ft pass!).

Best damn trucks ever made.

 

This encourages me to get a travel trailer and start our adventures!!! Thank you!

 

What is that trailer's weight & length? Looks great!

 

Like many others have said, Tundra brakes and trans cooler will do you wonders. I have towed my 23ft camper with stabilizer bars and little Kabota 23s with no problems. As mentioned your fuel economy will suffer but the Yota does it with no problems. I also have a f450 which would move either easier but haven't felt the need to use it for the camper or tractor. Good luck sir