TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

Hey guys, looking for opinions. I need to upgrade my garage air compressor. Currently running a 15 year old Crapsman loud-ass oil-less 6hp 30-gallon that lately seems like a 1hp 5 gallon. Whats a decent compressor from a place like Home Depot, Lowes or Harbor Frieght you've had good experience with? Looking for something with more balls and less noise. I have 240v and 120v outlets available.

 

I got a craftsman large, the year they got sold from sears (idk what size, but its big) oil-less one been good but only used maybe like 10 times. If I were in the market for a personal air compressor id get this.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwauk...-Quiet-Compressor-Tool-Only-2840-20/312244443

 

I didn't know they made a battery powered compressor like that. I think I'm looking for something bigger though, with around 60 gallon capacity.

 

My 60 gal Campbell Hausfield twin cylinder has been serving me faithfully for well over 20 years. Don’t remember what it cost back then, but it was worth it. I barely use it anymore. I’ve gone electric ⚡️ for just about all of my tools now. #milwaukee. Not sure who still carries their stuff. I wanna say I got this one at the Depot. It’s reasonably quiet. Far quieter than those old craftsman oil-less air kazoos for sure.

 

Also posted in the "Super Charger Quick Change Pulley" thread, but it has been quite for a long time...

I did the Pulley Boys quick change mod today using the 5QCK kit. All went well until I turned the engine over and ran a few revs. The SC drive belt slid forward on the idler pulley immediately under the SC drive shaft after about 15 seconds (pics below). Anyone else have this as an issue? Before I build out the idler pulley I want to make sure I am not missing something else.

I checked all of the pulleys to make sure the belt is seated correctly. The pulley hub is pressed all the way on and is flush with the SC shaft.


Don't judge me on how long it took to get around to doing this .
















From underneath looking up, Crank pulley and lower idler - belt fully seated

 

I think you need to press the pulley farther onto the shaft. Something about the quick change hub being made for M45 blowers and the Tacoma MP90 has a slightly different offset.

 

+1...

 

So it needs to go on another 1/8" or so, then. I talked to Nate at Smoothflow when I ordered mine and he said he has a different offset now for the Tacoma so it sits flush at the end of the shaft. I believe it was @TRON who worked with Nate to develop the correct offset.

 

Interesting. All my pulleys, which needed to be seated more deeply, came from Nate at Smoothflow. Happy to hear he's adjusted his pulleys, even if it's too late for me.

 

Yup! Before completely rebuilding my SC I was able to give him all the pics needed to make things flush. And his work is on point!

 

That is an excellent brand compressor actually. I can't remember the one we use at work but that one is straight quality as well. I can get you an answer tomorrow @loginfailed

He is very good at what he does and the group owes him big time for being a very well built alternative to the pulleyboys stuff.

 

Thanks! @BillDaCat8 pointed me the same way. Turns out it isn't always as straight forward for everyone.

From BiilDaCat8: https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/closed-group-buy-trd-magnuson-4-0-supercharger-quickchange-pulley-kit.519702/page-15#post-16586998

Looks like a little more work for me this week

 

Yep, did mine a few weeks ago and I also had to go a little further in. Didn't have a large washer so I used a piece of flat stock and cut a hole with a step bit. Braced the flat stock up against a piece of wood to keep the install tool from spinning. It it went on real easy compared to my first try, which failed, without the flat stock acting as a third hand.

 

And you know this because you have experience with it, or is this just your assumptions? I respectfully disagree. I just did it. A tundra is a dual diaphragm system, tacoma is single. I promise you the brake force applied per pound of pedal effort is changed dramatically. The difference is huge, for me at least. As in, no comparison.

 

Good to know. I stand corrected twice about it at this point.

 

Like others said you def need to push in past. The pulley boys needs to go 1/8-1/4” more just watch out for the bearing. you will see a bunch of comments last month on me asking the same thing. You can see it hanging off. Push back enough so it’s fully expected on.

 

Nice thinking! you do need to get creative.

 

A friend Nate, a few years ago, made an adapter for his with the Tundra master and booster. Had it for the brakes on the SAS. The Tacoma one wasn't cutting it. Figured it all out, and boom. Perfect stopping power. Then he started selling adapter kits.

*edit* Clearly it wasn't "perfect." As it's been updated below.

 

What is needed to do this swap? Do the bolt holes in the firewall line up?

 

They do. I'll see if I can find his thread.