Sub Dilemma...

Thinking of running 1 Jl 10 w3 with my kicker amp...only problem is my amp is rated 600rms at 2 ohms and 300 rms at 4 ohms. Too much power at 600 and under powered at 300 for the sub.

Would the sub suffer by only getting 300RMS? will it hold its own? or should i look for a sub to match either the 300 or 600 rating? and some other reccomendations on subs would be appreciated in the under 200 dollar range

EDIT: any opinions on the pioneer premier ts-w2502d4? seems it can handle the 600rms with ease

 

I have 300 watts from my HD600/4 on a 12W3V3-4 and it sounds great.

 

if you're only running a single sub make sure it's a 2 ohm DVC. Basically all amps are stable at 2 ohms and can provide a lot more power than they can at 4 ohms. If you plan on running 2 subs, that's when you want 4 ohm subs so that you can wire them in such a way that they provide a 2 ohm load overall. Some REALLY nice expensive amps are stable down to 1 ohm, but most are not.

It's always better to have a larger amp than your sub is rated for than to turn up the gain too high on an amp that's too small until it starts clipping. That's how you destroy subs.

 

NOT true, be very careful with this.

Check your amps prior to attempting to wire for a 2 ohm load. Get it wrong, and highly likely the amp will fry. Now if your intent was to say that most sub amps are rated at 2 ohms, then I would agree with that.

 

the JL 10W3V3-4 is rated for 300 RMS. it can handle more and less, but that is the sweet spot per JL. i have this sub in my truck connected to a pdx 5 that is rated 300 RPMS at 4 ohms but was birthed at 396.

 

my amp is stable at 2 ohms at 600 rms, i think im gonna with they alpine type R. good price, good reviews and it can handle 600 rms

 

What ohm rating is the sub? You never mentioned that, it's kind of important....

If it's 4 ohm sub then your right where u should be

 

The jl sub is rated at 300 Rms at 2 ohms and the type r is 600 Rms at 2 ohms.

 

What he is refering to is, how many ohms is each individual voice coil? If you have a DVC (Dual Voice Coil) sub, then you have seperate voice coils. They can be many different ohms, but always both coils are the same. If you have dual 4 ohm coils then you are good to be wired at 2 ohms of resistance. If you have dual 2 ohms then it is a bit more tricky.

 

Opps, misunderstood. Both the jl and type r are 4 ohm dvc so the amp would be at 2 ohms

 

You would obtain the 2 ohms by connecting both "+" and both "-" of the amp to the "+" and "-"

 

pretty sure rated at 2 ohms and stable at 2 ohms are the same thing. Think about it, why aren't most amps rated at 1 ohm, because they aren't stable at 1 ohm. Anyone think my chain of logic is crazy?

 

I like 4 ohms and I cannot lie.

 

Just cut your gain low at 2 ohms... done

 

Or wire the sub at 8 ohm and turn gain up a bit... also done. Safer but less output. You got the wrong impedance sub btw.

 

amps are capable of producing more power at lower resistances i.e. ohms. That's the only reason why people do it. If amplifier X is stable at both 1, 2, and 4 ohms, It will make more power at 2 ohms than it does at 4, and more power at 1 ohm than it does at 2.

 

Double post deleted

 

Most amps are not stable 1 ohm, not stable at 2 ohms bridged, and have higher distortion at 2 ohms than 4. Additionaly, many speakers do best at less than rated power because the limit may be defined as when mechanical limits are reached. At that point, audible noise can be not only really bad if parts are crashing together, but actually damaging/destroying the speaker. There is no advantage to using more than 50% of a subs rated rms power handling other than more output. Of course if you use way too little power you will cause all kinds of problems by running an amp at near Max output like distortion and thermal issues, but only when playing loud.