After new lift I’m left with questions. Any thoughts?

Hi there,

I appreciate any clarity on these questions. I have searched and can’t really get an answer. The lift is:
-Bilstein 5100 adjustable fronts set at 0 with OME 885 springs.
-OME med duty leaf pack
-Bilstein 5100 extended length rears

My questions are:
1) Anyone have issues with their e brake cable down the road?
My e brake cable was extremely tight and no way able to connect back to the frame until I had the truck back on the ground. Makes me think it would rip if I fully extend or take the tires off to do anything.

2) How do you have your extended length boots set?
I read to leave the zip ties on so I did that. Leaving them high up it looks so goofy and bent during daily driving. If you pull them down to look straight would they rip if you fully extend?

3) Did you use 3 washers with your extended lengths?
The set I bought had the wrong packs with them. It said for a F150 2WD. I called and they said I didn’t need the 3rd. Seems important to me if it’s supposed to come with it.

4) Did you really get a torq reading for rear shock nut?
I don’t have the crow foot adapters for a torq wrench. So I just tightened it till it started to bulge. Or hit a line on the rubber. I can’t remember. But I measured what was sticking out the top to be equal on both sides. Anyone feel like doing that for me?

5) Can I loosen and retighten the long bolt on my UCA without messing up the bushing? Should it have upward spring back?
There was so much downward force I had to jack a block to lift it up to work. Originally I thought it should have been a free flowing part. I have since seen a video where it snapped up instead of down like mine.

6) does anyone know the torq specs for wheelers u-bolt flip kit?
Our factory ones say 37ftlbs which is obviously wrong but never found an actual update. Or anything specific to wheelers. I guess I could call them if no one knows.

Ok last question, and thanks for staying with me if you did.

7) Did you add a spacer to your super bumps with the extended length?

thanks for your time and input.

 

afternoon. I’m no means an expert but I’ll give my opinion on the questions I can answer.

1. I didn’t hook the bracket on my ebrake cable back to the leaf pack. helps with a little extra slack.

2. I snipped the zip ties, adjusted it to where I liked it and added new ones.

4. no, I tightened it to where I felt comfortable and checked it after a few hundred miles. No issues.

6. @Wheeler's Off-Road Inc

7. no, I didn’t add a spacer but that doesn’t mean it’s not what your truck needs.

have a good weekend!

 

1) I think that’s a good idea not attaching it back. Would reduce the current state of anxiety about breaking it. I would have to look at again but if I remember correct it was a pretty stiff hose that would keep its shape and not hang down. Did you cut off the bracket, tape it still, or just let it dangle? Anyone else do it this way or just not have issue? I had wondered if I could add an extension to it as an option.

2) I was able to move it up and down with the current zip tie. But I don’t see it sliding when stretching.

4) yea I think I did to 90ftlbs and I don’t remember at this point why. I was all over Tacomaworld and the internet the weekend I did it.

Thanks for your reply and have good weekend as well.

 

I just let the ebrake bracket dangle. haven’t had any issues yet.

 

Anyone else’s thoughts?

 

My ebrake cable has been hangin' loose for 80k miles

I didn't torque shit when I put my shocks on

Do what you want with the boots it'll be fine

No spacers but if you want it go for it

Bushings will be fine, loosening / tightening doesn't do anything to them

 

If you want to make a bracket for the ebrake cable. Many lift kits come with one. Not hard to make.
If your boots are too short for the shock, it's not really going to matter, they will get pulled down at extension anyways.
No idea on the washers.
I did not use a torque wrench on my shock bolts. Never have. Just make sure they are good and tight. Maybe go look online for a stock pic of how much of the threads are showing above the nut and replicate that when you install new.
Not sure what install method you used, but don't think you needed to mess with teh UCA bolt for any reason unless you replaced UCA also.
Ubolts need to be torqued to much higher than 37ftlbs. Some say that is a typo and should be reversed to 73. I think mine are at 80 to 85 and I'm happy with that...Too tight and you could crack the axle housing.
Don't have super bumps. Sorry.

 

thanks guys

 

@BlueCrabTaco, there's some incorrect info in this thread. Depending on what UCAs you're running, the bushings may need to be torqued at ride height and failure to do so can cause the bushing to tear.

You should properly torque everything too and I assume you installed new ubolts since those are a one time torque fastener. There's a sticky at the top of the 2nd gen forum that has torque specs.

 

They are stock UCAs and pretty sure they were torqued while wheels hanging. I think it happened when they replaced my frame a couple years back. I think they let someone who didn’t know what they were doing work on my truck because a few things were done wrong. I just didn’t know if I loosen and re tighten at ride height if it would be a problem. But that’s what I need to do.

Regarding U bolts I just didn’t know if it’s different because it’s a flip kit so a couple different variables.

Thanks

 

U bolts are to be torqued, then retorqued at, I believe 100 miles, then again after another 100 miles until they don't torque anymore.

 

I planned to retorque them after 500 miles. Found that number somewhere when I first searched. Saw it a few times so went w that. I guess it could not hurt to check even earlier.

Thanks