AC issue

So coming back from a sprint enduro race in IA Sunday AC worked for the first hour on the long drive back to Far North Chicagoland. The AC light started flashing. Just replaced the AC clutch relay....Still flashing - worried is going to get expensive fast as I really need it for the long drive to National Corvette Museum MS track in Bowling Green, KY.

What's the next trouble shooting step?

 

Check for refrigerant leaks. Look at the AC lines near going into the firewall. There will be 2 black clamps on the lines. Most leaks I’ve seen on these 2nd gens are right there at those clamps. Report back findings.

 

So I found the inlet/outlet lines - should I see evidence of leaks - Freon? Or do I need to run the system and put my hands around there. The cooling was great until it stopped. The AC light flashes and the clutch doesn't seem to engage to get the compressor to work. Suspecting a clutch failure.

 

Unfortunately there are a multitude of reasons why the light will blink, some being the MG CLT relay is stuck, the AC compressor clutch RPM pick up sensor is defective, the compressor clutch is defective, the AC amplifier behind the glovebox is bad (this one is a blind shot) or you are low on refrigerant. If there are no signs of leaks I would start with a service first to ensure you are at the correct level.

I am dealing with this today on this very day myself. I am replacing my MG CLT relay, my compressor assembly and a line. My light flashed on me one but my compressor has been leaking out of the magnetic clutch for the last two summers so its obvious what caused the light to blink on me once. I refuse to be without AC this summer.

 

Generally speaking, doesnt the flashing lite mean "compressor speed doesnt match engine speed"?

 

Meaning - top off refrigerant? yeah same. Hate the heat. Need to be cool on the long drives after enduro races or rd race track days in 90F 100% humidity. If I don't get this fixed before the weekend, it will be a miserable loud drive back & forth.

 

Maybe.. gotta see how much is in there first

 

I roasted my ac clutch solenoid and pulley bearing after about 30 min idling on a hot (90F) day. New clutch solenoid fixed it. $45. If you're looks like mine or you smell or smelled any burning/melting plastic smell I'd look at that. It's hard to see without pulling the pulley but I could see mine was pushing the melted potting compound out behind the pulley. A light and a mirror are helpful.

 

Yes it does.

No that means evacuate all of it out because as of current there is no machine state of the art or not that will tell you what the exact refrigerant charge level is. If you attempt to top off you may overcharge the system which is not a good thing to do.

 

So i took it into the garage. They're telling $1500 to change compressor and maybe up to $2200 to replace the condenser also. Got laid off Monday so not happening. Apparently I got the wrong relay (advance auto can't get parts right to save their lives). What's the first step in trouble shooting? Remove or inspect AC pulley/clutch?

 

Get some manifold guages and see if your low, your going to need them anyway.

 

2,200 for a condensor? A hope you mean evaporator. ..

Did this shop charge anything for diagnosis?

 

Sorry to hear about your troubles...this video might help if it just low on refrigerant.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bSzH_9blVO4

 

Find another 'garage'. Maybe one that won't rape you.

 

So I bought the comp. for $317, condenser for $85 and some PAG 46 oil - $8. The garage will charge me $200 for evacuating system and recharging it. Had a hell of a time getting one of the comp mounting bolts out. Stripped one of the torx holding the exp. valve but got with an easy out. Hoping I can be under $700 for whole job.

 

You should replace the valve cores also, there cheap and easy.

 

Yep, I would take it to someone who's honest, if that's possible? Just had mine serviced, was blowing air hotter than the ambient temp, was a recharge of system and compressor needed oil, about 160 bucks.

 

so ended up replacing condenser (forgot o-ring on bottom connection), compressor and buying but returning the exp. valve (it was clean). Had one comp. mounting bolt which would not come out - shop broke it but I used the 2 nut method to remove. Stripped torx on one valve mount screw - drilled it out and the easy out worked great. Shop charged me $448 for evacuating the system, breaking that pesky comp. mt bolt, adding an o-ring to bottom of condenser and recharging the system. System now works great but power steering failed again Sat night - just changed the pump 2 months ago - WTF ..where is toyota reliability????

 

Damn I’m having my compressor, clutch and tensioner and belt replaced today. I purchased All OEM parts and my local shop is charging $489 for all of it plus evac/recharge.

 

Sorry to bump an old thread but how did you drill out the exp valve bolt? Both mine are fuckdd I cannot get either I drilled into both but i can’t get through the valve. I had to purchase the oem valve to get the replacement bolts.