Axle Wrap Questions

Does axle wrap only happen with auto transmission? Seems all the threads about are with AT. I have 95 access cab 3.4 M/T 4x4 217,000 miles & never any axle wrap. Other than being annoying, does it hurt anything? I did the u-bolt on the leafs in front of the axle on my 04 DC SB, 4x4 165,000 miles & it reduced the frequency of the axle wrap but did not eliminate it entirely. Now when it does thump it seems much more severe than before the u-bolts. Any thoughts? Ideas? Did I not put the u-bolts on right? Not tight enough?

 

Any solid axle can have axle wrap. Not sure what you mean by put ubolts on the leaf springs? Pic maybe? Axle wrap is simply the flexing of the leaf spring essentially has the axle tries to rotate. You could put ladder bars on the rear and that would remedy it. But the normal axle wrap will not damage anything.

 

U-bolts on the springs refers to the "No More Axle Wrap Mod" thread on here.

 

I have two 95 models with AT and both have axle wrap. One has about 2.7L w/165,000 miles (worst wrap) and one 3.4L w/256,000.

I also have had u-bolts on the 2.7L and same result as you: reduced, not eliminated. I just moved the bolts to the 3.4L, but haven't driven it enough to make a call on improvement.

We may just need to play with the placement and torque on the bolts to completely eliminate it.

 

when I put an AAL on it stoped it on my 96 4X4 auto.

 

The axle wrap mod doesn't say it'll eliminate axle wrap. It's just a band-aid fix to help reduce it.

The farther away from the axle you place the U-bolts, the less you should get axle wrap, but also the shittier your ride will get because you are restricting the movement of the leafs more. Mine (see pic) are about as close to the front of the axle as I could get them. I'm running the original springs (~!20k miles). They've been like that for going on at least a decade now. Definitely reduced the axle wrap, but didn't eliminate it.

It's really just a sign that your leafs are worn out (although new leafs can do it to). Worn out ones just get worse.

 

Anyone with resources for some stock rear leafs for our 1st gens? My leafs at 230k are shot and have braking and take- off wrapping. I keep finding Dakar and such that have a lift to them, I just want to keep stock height.

 

That will do nothing to eliminate it, as axle wrap is rotation of the axle. That does nothing to stop that. The only permanent solution is to add ladder bars or a 3 point link.

 

Axle wrap is a result of the OEM leaf springs being worn out. A quality aftermarket leaf pack will eliminate this issue. No need for ladder bars or a custom link rear suspention.

Most of the spring packs discussed on this forum are off-the-shelf, ready made spring solutions (like the Dakars) and assume you are only interested in adding lift because that is what most of us want. But there are other choices available. There are a few companies who will make you a spring pack designed around your situation and needs. I am a fan of Alcan, but there are a few others.

Check out this link to send your specifications to Alcan. If you choose this, give them all of your specific application details to get exactly what you are looking for. They can build you a sel of springs to your specs.

http://www.alcanspring.com/order.htm

 

I assure you depending gearing and tire size a brand new set of leaf springs will not not stop axle rotation. You get the On brakes or gas hard enough the axle will have some rotation to it. Yes a brand new Leafs will limit it cause they won’t flex as much under the rotational forces but they will not eliminate it. The only 100 percent way to eliminate the axle rotation is with some form of ladder bar set up.

 

A ladder bar recommendation makes no sense for someone who is trying to keep their suspension as stock as possible.

 

I agree. I was just saying the only way to completely eliminate the axle rotation so that those forces don’t transfer int the leaf springs is with a ladder bar set up.

 

I'm an auto and I had really bad axle wrap. Various mods made it better but it would come back. AAL, new rear shocks (5125s as I was building up for moderate off roading) would make it go away for a while, then come back.

I want to get a whole new leaf back for low weight/compliance but for now I installed a bud built trac bar. It's hulk smash gone now, it's bud built, need one say more?

 

It is normal and does not hurt a thing. In 1964 I did a theses on axle "wind up" with a 8 MM camera under the vehicle one picture clearly showed the spring bent into an small "s" shape under full acceleration. They learned this back then and added traction bars to their drag cars. If you are hard enough on your truck you will experience this. I guess I'm old enough and have driven well over a million miles it is nothing new to me and if my Tacoma does this I consider it normal.

 

Here's what axle wrap looks like:



The problem is worn out leaf springs. Adding an add- a-leaf, traction bars, flipping ubolts or whatever is just a temporary fix. If you want to fix it for good, replace the leaf springs

 

New leaf springs do the same thing. Not as much. But they still do this. Leaf springs do nothing to stop the rotational force on the axle caused by tire traction. Every time you accelerate or brake it If you have a camera filming the axle you will see it still has some rotation to it. Once again the only true way to stop axle rotation(axle wrap) is with a traction bar that has a mounting above and below the axle and one point at the frame.

 

My 98 never had it.

My 04 has it bad (at least I hope that's what it is). So bad in fact I want that ^^ on a morale patch to stick to my headliner.

 

Yes. Most of the newer truck use a lower spring rate because manufacturers want the trucks to ride like cars all nice a cuddly. Thus the newer trucks tend to have the effect more.

 

oh yes, even brand new leaf spring will have a bit of rotational movement. But it is when the springs are worn out that this movement gets extreme and you end up having axle wrap issues. Adding traction bars to worn out springs will reduce the symptoms but it will not solve the root of the problem

 

Actually it's the design of the overload leaf that make these trucks have axel wrap issues. Most overload leafs are curved up "in a smile shape" that helps reduce axel wrap and supports the springs before they bend backwards. Our overload leafs are curved down "frown shape" no extra support, it actually helps the axel wrap by curving away from the other leafs kind of like a rocking chair. Worn out springs exaggerate the problem.