1999 Tacoma SR5 TRD Imperial Jade Build, Sweat and Tears

Thanks! TNshooter hooked it up yesterday. He pm'd me the whole trucks diagrams. Much appreciated though.

 

Trying to figure out whats the deal with the bed being tilted at the back. Ive looked all over the frame and I see no beds or kinks anywhere. I don't think its the frame thats sagging.

I looked under the rear of the cab and seen this (left and right side)...




Would this cause the bed and the cab not to line up evenly? Even the front of the cab bushings look toast.

 

It’s been a long time (15 years) since I had the bed off one.
It almost looks like there is a piece between the bed and the frame rail mount.
In that piece between, it looks like there is a rubber bushing.
And the bushing looks like it’s been press out.
Probably due to old age.

My problem is, I don’t see that part on any parts diagrams.

If only I had kept my old truck, I would be able run outside and check.

 

The bed bolts metal to metal. The cab sits on bushings. My bushings were sagging and causing the rear of the cab to sink lower and not line up with the bed. Replacing the bushings mostly fixed that. You can shift the bed around if you loosen the bolts, but it won’t go up or down unless something got bent.

 

Thanks. Thats what it seems like on mine. That the cab sunk a little lower then the bed and it looks like the cab bushings are absolutely toasted. I wonder how much of a pain it is to put new ones in all around. Also wonder if it would help cushion the cab off roading and maybe also lower cabin noise.

 

Dude you gotta look for another one. Life is short. If you can swing it go for it.

I unbolted the bed tonight just to see what was up. Ill get it figured it soon.

 

Went off roading today with a friend. This thing is a beast. I hit some stuff that this thing has no business doing with fully bald tires and it just took it. Thought I was going to high center a few times going up some steep rutted out trails and can't believe it cleared. Highly impressed with this truck off road.

A few random shots...

 

Here is installation information.

https://www.energysuspensionparts.com/installation_instructions/energy_suspension/17170.pdf


It shouldn’t be too hard to do.
Be sure to loosen all the bolts first.
Don’t take them all out at once.
I would remove to bolts from one side.
Leave the bolt loose as NOT removed from the opposite side.
That way the body doesn’t shift over and off the frame This helps keep things aligned.

IIRC, this is how I did it on the body kit I installed.
Every thing went pretty smooth believe it or not.

I almost remember there being a wiring tie somewhere I had to undo, but you may not since I would think you would be raising the body as high as I didn’t for the lift.
Be sure to check everywhere often.

 

This one reminds me of helping in the hay fields in the summer.
Probably my favorite one so far.

 

Thanks TnShooter. Just ordered Energy Suspension cab bushings.

 

Heres a shot of the bald ass tires. Still waiting on tirerack for the ATX's.

 

Yeah, those look about like my current tires.
Going to wait until this fall to get new ones.
I don’t plan to go off road, or het any snow this summer?
Might as well get all I can out of the current tires.

Plus, I waiting on some one to put the Hankook DynaPro AT2 on sale.
I have the AT/M now with over 75k on them.

 

Got the General ATX's today. Man, they are heavy as hell compared to the old tires that were on it. Id say at least 15+lbs heavier per tire. For some reason the side walls feel a lot softer with the ATX's too. A lot more body roll and less precise steering.

I think the heaviness of the ATX's is too much for the KYB Mono Maxes that are on it. I hit a pretty nasty pot hole of the freeway going 70mph and the drivers front wheel bounced around so uncontrolled that it kicked the ass end around and I actually had to counter steer out of it to save it. It was so bad that I thought something broke it the front suspension or that they didn't tighten the lugs down right. Its wired that the ATX's would make that much of a difference. The Mono Max's did fine with the other tires, actually pretty decent. Who would of know that just that much extra weight would mess it up that much.

I really didn't want this truck to snowball, where I would fix one thing and then it would lead to the next thing, but it seems like Im gonna need shocks that can handle the extra weight now.









Also noticed that the passenger rear bottom leaf is crooked.

 

I ran stock suspension on 32x11.50x15 @ 55 lbs. each
I didn’t have any issues.

Maybe the shocks are really worn?

I don't know anything about the A/T tires.
If they are as good as the Grabber, you should have a good tire.

 

The shocks are probably dead. If you look at the last photo of the rear leaf pack you can see oil spots on it. I assume its from the shocks.

Now to find a good shock. Does anyone know if the KYB Mono's give any lift in the front? Im assuming it does. It def seems higher then stock. I want to try and match it.

Im wondering about Bilstien 5100's. I think id like to get something that can handle a slightly faster pace on rutted dirt roads. I don't really want to blow a ton of cash on remote types.

 

I’ve heard nothing but good about the 5100’s
Sure there are better, but they are much better than the factory OE Bilsteins.

 

Welp the snowballs rolled down the hill some more today. Went back to get an alignment since the guy wasn't there tester day and the tie rods are toast. Its all good because the rack was already leaking out of the top when I bought it and was told about it.

Now to find a rebuilt OEM rack for not an arm and a leg.

Also did some testing with shocks and they seem to be okay. Gonna wait a little while on that.

The Energy Suspension cab bushings showed up today. Will get them in next week.

Noticed the front pads are brand new and Im pretty sure they are AC Delco. So I might pull them for something a little more grabby. Any recommendations would be great.

Also noticed that the rear brake bias is too strong. Theres a couple times Ive had to hit the brakes and the rears lock pretty easy. Sounds crazy with the new rubber, ROOOOOOORRRRRRRRR. I just need to figure out if move the nut up or down over the rear axle to add more front bias. I think down is more front but I gotta check.

 

You’ll get it all sorted out.
Here is info on the adjustment for the LPV.
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/rear-brake-problems.125554/#post-2430891


I don’t have any experience with reman racks on Toyota’s.
So I can’t help in the Reman options.

If you decide go new.
Almost everyone (even me) says O.E is the way to go.
There have been some good reviews on the LCE. But I don’t have any experience with them.
https://www.lceperformance.com/Rack-Pinion-Kit-Tacoma-4wd-01-04-p/2055582.htm

 

I knew it was down to add more front. Thanks for confirming.

6 hundo for the rack?! damn.

 

Yeah, that’s a lot.
I would prefer NOT to do it twice. Unless it were 15 years later and the truck is still running.

Maybe some of the other 1st Gen guys will jump in and give us good recommendations.