CV BOOT TORN, questions????????

so I torn my CV boot offroading, crazy amount of grease everywhere!!

So im wondering, I live in the mountaisn far from dealerships. I wanna fix it myself.

Should I just get new boot or entire CV AXLE?

The cv joint is not shaking at all, but i've heard replacing the entire axle is easier and less messy?

Let me know guys. Also any good cv axle replacement write ups???

 

Replacing the whole axle is a little easier and ALOT less messy. If you don't mind the extra $$$ for a whole axle, it's not a bad idea.

When I had my old 4Runner I actually had an extra set of axles in my garage ready to go in for when I needed to replace a boot. Then later when I had extra time I would reboot the torn axle and have it ready for the next time.

 

i love this idea!! im all about having a backup system.

Any good write ups about removal of cv axle.
I have a 2007 tacoma.

Going to google it in about a half hour, jsut seeing if anyone knows.

 

Did a quick search of this site and found this. It doesn't have any pictures, but has a good description in the 3rd or 4th post.

http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/suspension/59542-cv-boot-torn.html

Ahh, I don't miss the torn CV boots. But I do miss my 4x4.

 

IdK if this will work for you but I blew a cv boot on my polaris ranger and took the whole cv axle out and had boot replaced by axle shop for 45 bucks. Its not hard take tire off disconnect everything attached to spindle assembly, and pull it out. Might require a little force,hammer to break loose

 

QUESTION: just called toyota dealership, asked if I could purchase a replacement cv axle and he told me for new its $500, or remanufactured its around 80.

So then I call Carquest and the guy tells me he has a "brand spanking new one for 89.95 with no core."

What does it mean it has no core? And how is it brand spanking new for that cheap when stealership told me 500 for new??????

 

I believe "no core" means you dont' have to give him your blown one in exchange when you purchase it.

 

Sweet. I wonder why toyota quoted me so much...

 

Its factory parts and well there a stealership.

 

Still, I told the buy at toyota what I was told, and he said when he buys the cv axle from the store brand new, its around 400 bucks for toyota, and then they sell it to us for around 500 bucks. And he said "I promise the only way your getting a cv axle for 80 bucks is because its remanufactured."

The store im buying it for 80 bucks PROMISED me it wasnt, and it was brand new, for 80 bucks???

 

wish i would have done this with my sportsman. but i let my dad buy a new axle and put it in. it was the wrong size axle and he put the hub back on wrong. so my wheel wobbles here goes another 200 dollars.

 

do I have to drain differential fluid for the cv axle change? Or can I just put in the new axle without new fluid?

 

Shouldn't have to drain the fluid... I priced a new axle through O'rielly Auto parts for $71, a re-manufactured one is $69.

Yes, when they talk about a "core" its when you turn in the old part and they give you a set price of it. Sometimes a parts store will do that on certain parts so they can rebuild it and sell it as a re-manufactured part... Usually a good deal. They do it with lot of parts like alternators, etc.

I ended up buy the boot kit with the grease and snap rings and everything for $17. We'll see how the install goes...

 

Edit: Here's a great writeup on it: I just replaced both CV Axles on mine. Paid 189/ea for parts from the dealership. Aftermarket, not OEM, not remanf. Those docs will help you with removal, if you want to re-boot, or just swap out.

Basically:
- Get a cheater bar!! You'll need it to get some bolts loose.
- get a qt of fluid
- Remove tire, brakes, rotors
- remove dust cover (pound around it with a screwdriver, try not to bend it)
- Remove pin from axle nut cover (get a new one) and axle hub nut (need a 35mm axle nut socket)
- remove tie rod with the tie rod tool (you'll need this, trust me)
- Remove speed sensor (not needed, helps get around things)
- remove (2) bolts from lower control arm (easy)
- now, hit the end of the cv axle with a hammer to break it loose while pulling on your hub assembly
- have a friend help
- Do not remove the tiny arm that connects your hub assembly to your upper control arm. I did this, now it won't tighten back on, then the boot broke. It makes it easier to remove this, but, don't.
Pull your CV Axle out
--- Since your boot is broken, it'll pop right out of the boot, this makes life easier, as you can then crawl under the truck with a prybar and pry the remaining end of the CV Axle out of the truck, pop, and it comes out
----- Some fluid will leak, that's okay
-- Pop in the new CV axle
-- Have a friend help get the new cv axle into the hub assembly. This is a PITA.
---- Make sure your small round seal doesn't come out with the old one, it fits into your hub assembly against the cv axle (don't have a photo, sorry).

 

thanks so mcuh guys. did it but now I can feel a SLIGHT almost unnoticeable gind feeling under my feet when im driving. I asked my friend to drive it and he didnt notice it, but he has never driven my truck before. Not sure.

 

My cv tear got covered by warranty, they changed the whole axle.

 

Toyota also replaced my passenger side under warranty. They put in a new half-shaft. But I have to have another look because this one might be torn now too. I don't do off-roading so I don't know why these are ripping. Warranty is just about over too. (Bought the '07 as a holdover in '08)

Seems like a really poor design.

 

I tore the outer cv boot on mine, is there any reason i cant change it with out having to remove the axle?

 

http://www.rockauto.com/

These folks have brand new half axles from cardone for $40

 

You lifted? That's the design of all ifs 4x4s.