PSA: Check your spark plugs

The leak path is whole way up the long reach plug threads, so the difference may not have been enough to throw a code. Esp when you consider how far off compression has to be before you get a code anyway.

Other than @Hank Heel , the only trend that I have heard is that the right side plugs are the ones found loose. There was a post somewhere suggesting that detonation can loosen plugs. I am not saying that is true. References would be needed there.

2017 TX built Sport here. Engines all come from the same place, I believe.

 

I tried. Just came to the conclusion that pulling the intake off was easier. About 8 bolts and a few hoses and everything was wide open to get to. Next time around will probably take me 45min to an hr.

 

I tried looking up the part number. I didn't see it. I would have bought a set if my oems weren't already in the mail. Just for shits and giggles

 

My worry about pulling a manifold is installing everything back on correctly. I’m afraid of kinked seals and vacuum leaks, dealt with this on a BMW once, was not fun.
I’m glad it worked out for you!

 

I can look for you. Hang on.

 

Wasn't too bad. Gasket stays put well. Easy to tighten the bolts and nuts in an equal pattern. I'd say the average guy who changes their oil could tackle it without fear.

 

I tried using their parts catalog and just came up with COP's and sensors

 

Yes, regardless of the assembly plant....all V6s engines come from Alabama

 

I think there was a TW'er that worked there? I saw a post or two ages ago. They had some good info.

 

Good to know.
I’ll likely pull it off next go round. At that mileage I’d want to take closer look at a motor/surrounding areas.

 

Also a major reason why I did it. The areas you can get to and clean is tenfold.

 

Yeah I know, they had a screw up in the catalog. 94122/ LFR6AHX-S is the plug you are looking for.

Heat range 6
14mm thread size
26.5mm reach
5K ohm resistor

 

Man fuck. Just a few days earlier and I would have totally tried these. Cheaper than what I paid too, howthats possible I have no idea

 

I don't know why they are cheaper. It could just be that they are sort of universally designed spark plugs which retrofit into what you currently have versus OE stuff which is designed specially to work for your engine. The Ruthenium material drives the price up, the universality drives the cost down. It ends up being a near wash in pricing with Iridium and Ruthenium in the end.

 

Welp I have the part number now. Maybe in another 50k I'll run em haha

 

Did you do the plugs or a mechanic?

If it was you, screw it, just do them again if you want to benefit from them. I would.

 

I just don't wanna respend the money. I got my plugs from a dealer, I think they'll arrive, probably today

 

Return them or resell them on here? Either way, you'd get your money back for them.

I'm just looking for solutions (and excuses) for you to make the jump.

 

In all honesty, I should get them and if they don't work well, I can go back to the new oem's

 

Yeah there's no way you would ever go back to the OEM stuff.

Or your money back.


















(just kidding, no refunds)