ABS Light On / Process to Correct / Fixed

2003 Toyota Tacoma Pre-Runner 3.4l /Double Cab/Auto
Just recently finished installing the add-a-leaf and polyurethane bushings in the rear leaf springs.
Took the Yota out for a test drive yesterday and the ride was awesome. BUT, the ABS light is now on. When I got back to the house, I checked the rear just to make sure the wires were not pinched, etc., but didn't notice anything that threw up a red flag.
I searched last night on how to pull the ABS codes, and most of what I found was for models that have the connector to check located near the manifold. That must have been on earlier models, because my '03 and friends '04 doesn't have that.
My plan this afternoon is to remove the rear sensors, clean, and reinstall. I'll also check the wiring again.
Question -
Can someone please post how to check the codes on the '03? Need to determine which pins to jump under the dash.

Appreciate any suggestions and help.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/assistance-with-add-a-leaf-install.669522/

 

Inspected the wires and no issues. Plenty of slack in the wiring.
Removed both rear sensors and cleaned off. Also used electrical cleaner to clean the connectors. Applied just a dap dielectric grease
The rear passenger sensor had a little bit of oil residue on the tip which I cleaned off.
ABS light is still on!
Any suggestions?

 

Remove ABS system and pull the bulb in the dash.
There is a write-up on TW.
I removed mine when I did my SAC and have zero regrets.

Good luck.

 

Used a jumper to get the code (video results below).
ABS light blinks in the following pattern: III pause III pause III pause IIII.
Long pause and repeats.
From what I can find this is the left rear sensor.
If you think it’s something different please let me know.
So, again, removed the tire, removed the sensor and re-installed insuring to make sure the mating surface was clean.
Damn light is still on!



https://youtu.be/TTWwPDtfl0M

 

Bumping this back up to the top in hopes someone can help. If I can’t get it to go off I’ll be taking it to the Toyota Dealer to get them to let me know what’s wrong.

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3pb9nfqV4L4


watch the whole video

 

I just took the bulb out of the dash and forgot about it. If I had the money I’d probably fix it right though. Mine threw like 6 or 7 codes though so I figured it might be the abs control module itself.

 

Wasn't going to post at first, but maybe this will help someone in the future.
What I know -

• ABS light was not on before replacing add-a-leaf / poly bushing install
• before removing the springs, I unbolted the hard brake line, parking brake attachments, and the bolts/clips securing the abs sensor wiring. This was all done to prevent any lines becoming strained when lowering the diff.
• Didn't mention this in the first post...When I removed each spring, I removed and inspected each sensor on the rear diff. The sensors were clean. Passenger side sensor had a small amount of oil residue on tip. I did shine a light where the sensor inserts, but there was no gear oil to see.

What I've done to try and correct

• Inspected the rear abs wiring. No kinks, no fraying, etc.
• Removed each sensor, and reinserted. Used electrical spray on the connectors and applied a light coat of dielectric grease.
• Adjusted the rear drums. Did this just to make sure something wasn't binding, etc.

Used the jumper mod to pull the codes. I "think" it's a 34 (Rear Left Sensor) based on the ABS light blinks. **Provided a video in thread.

Here is my dilemma. The rear LH Sensor (part #89546-35020) from ToyotaPartsDeal.com is $182. I hate to order it and it not fix the problem because I'm reading the code wrong.
So, I wanted to take it by the Toyota Dealer to get them to read the codes and verify what I'm interrupting. I figured it would cost maybe $80 for them to check...Wrong.

06.18
I called the Toyota Dealership and they charge $129 to pull the code....ridiculous. BUT they wave the charge if you have them fix it.
So, I order the sensor from ToyotaPartsDeal this morning, and order the Autel Autolink AL619 code reader (engine/srs/abs). I've wanted one and I can use this for not only my truck but other vehicles.
The OBD2 reader should be here Monday, so I'll provide a follow up post after plugging it in.

$100 BlueDriver Bluetooth Pro OBDII Scan Tool for iPhone & Android

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00652G4TS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

Does anyone know if the ABS light clears itself once the issue is corrected?
I read many post on the 2nd Gens where you have to press the gas pedal several times while the jumper wire is in place.

 

I ran a diagnostic for the engine and abs system. Came back with the two codes below which is for the left rear and right rear sensors. So, using the "Clear Antilock Brake System Codes" I cleared them just to see if they would immediately come back on and they didn't. Shut the truck off and now when you move the ignition to on, the ABS light comes on for the normal 3 seconds and goes off.
So, I'm hoping it was just a fluke from having the rear diff moved around....fingers crossed!!

 

The abs system is so jenky in the first gen, that you’re better off without it in my opinion. I’m really happy I disabled mine.

 

Update....ABS light back on. On a positive note, it's consistent....same two error messages. I've actually cleared it 2x now. I was trying to determine if the light was coming on when braking, backing up, etc., to narrow down the issue. Basically coming on about 1 to 2 miles after being driven.
In doing my research, I've made an observation. Not allot posts on ABS issues for the first gens. Most just either disable or put a piece of black electrical tape over the light. Hey, I get it. Sometimes the cost to repair doesn't warrant the $.
So after reading several posts on the 2nd Gen forum, 4Runner forums, Tundra Forums, and even...dare I say it...Ford forums, most abs sensor issues are due to either a bad axle seal or bad bearing (abs ring wobbles).
Again, the rear passenger side had some oil on the sensor. Shining a light into where it inserts, there is no visible gear oil.
The drivers side rear sensor didn't have as much oil on the sensor. Just a dab.

I'm really doubtful it's the sensors. I just can't see how two sensors are throwing a code, when all that was done was the springs removed and reinstalled.

Next Plan of Action:
Last night I ordered a pair of cheap abs sensors off of Ebay. Did this just to see if the sensors are truly the issue. I'll do this once they arrive from Cali.
I also plan on checking the rear passenger side axle seal to see how bad of a leak there is or is it just seeping through. Regardless, I'll probably replace with an OEM seal.

More to come!!!!!!!!!!!!

https://www.ebay.com/ipp/264442832289?transactionId=2613474287016

 

Small update.....
The past Saturday I cleared the codes again before running an errand. ABS light came on in nearly the exact same place of the trip. But, this time there was an additional code which may support the seal being bad.
New Code: C1238 FOREIGN OBJECT IS ATTACHED ON TIP OF REAR SPEED SENSOR RH.

Also on Saturday I ordered the following parts from ToyotaPartsDeal.com
2 Type S rear axle oil seals Part #90310-50006
2 Dust O-Rings Part #90301-88077
2 Drain Plug Gaskets (rear diff) Part #

$21 12157-10010 Toyota Oil Drain Plug Crushable Steel Gaskets Set of 10 OEM 12157-10010

12157-10010
1 Breather Plug Part #90930-A3001
Additional order from Amsoil
3 quarts of Amsoil Synthetic Severe Gear

$30 75W-90 Synthetic Gear Lube - 1 Quart (Pack of 2)

75W-90

 

06/30
Okay guys. The $14 Ebay sensors arrived yesterday. Haven't installed yet. Wanted to post some pictures of them in case someone considers ordering these. Again, I know these are Chinese knock offs. It clearly states in the pics below......"Made in China". This is to rule out or confirm that it's actually a sensor. Also, the "Made in China" sensors have no markings or numbers on them. I have the new oem sensor but I'm not opening the sealed package unless I have to. Just wanted to show the visible differences between the OEM one and the cheaper alternative.

 

I haven't been able to solve mine either. Please keep us updated.

 

Well, I shouldn’t be surprised...the $14 Chinese sensors didn’t fit. It’s like a millimeter to big. Would have taken a hammer to drive it in.
I did go ahead and pull the passenger side drum in preparation to replace the axle seal. Got the parking brake undone but I’ve got to go in the morning to pick up an assortment of vacuum plugs for when I remove the brake line.
There was no gear oil inside the drums.
Since I’m not replacing the brake shoes, I’m going to leave everything in place when removing the axle. Hardest part was removing the bottom 12mm bolt that secures the parking brake mechanism. No room with the brake shoe attached.






pic of the parking brake with rubber boot being removed. I’m going to get it cleaned up while I got it off.

 

the error setting conditions are listed in the matrix, how you are going to test them... I dont know.

 

Possibly a pinched wire somewhere in the harness. Have you checked the sensors with an ohm meter?

 

Check resistance of each sensor at the BN7 CONNECTION UNDER SEAT.
SEE ATTACHED PDF WIRE FOR SCHEMATIC. sorry about caps.

 

Try swapping sensors left to right and see if the code changes with it.