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Engine Mount Claims Another Tacoma

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by dirtytacoma, Jan 3, 2017.

  1. Jul 29, 2018 at 4:41 AM
    #21
    OldV12

    OldV12 TRD

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    How much? I'm about to drop my engine back in
     
  2. Jul 29, 2018 at 4:52 AM
    #22
    Biscuits

    Biscuits Thorny Crown of Entropy

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    $375 + shipping.

    Look at @Bonzen's signature for details.
     
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  3. Jul 29, 2018 at 4:59 AM
    #23
    Tacomamike mike

    Tacomamike mike Just that, nothing more.

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    Congrats !! Now back to loving your Taco brother.
     
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  4. Jul 29, 2018 at 12:45 PM
    #24
    OldV12

    OldV12 TRD

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    Do I still need DMZ even after this was done to my frame/motor mount area?

     
  5. Jul 29, 2018 at 1:37 PM
    #25
    Biscuits

    Biscuits Thorny Crown of Entropy

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    I would. Seems like it would be extra insurance.
     
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  6. Jul 31, 2018 at 3:08 AM
    #26
    OldV12

    OldV12 TRD

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    So I pulled my engine out (obviously) but now I put it back in after the work was done on the mounts (see pics above) and even after I bolted the motor mounts up the engine rocks back and forth, is that normal? Lol I'm thinking it is since there are only 2 motor mounts. Btw, the transmission is pulled out too.
     
  7. Jul 31, 2018 at 5:47 AM
    #27
    Torspd

    Torspd Tor-nication

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    The rubber engine mounts allow for a lot of flex.
     
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  8. Jul 31, 2018 at 7:20 AM
    #28
    Bonzen

    Bonzen Solid Offroad motor & transmission mounts

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    These will fix your issues. All the frame plating and gusseting is great but without replacing the weak flexing factory rubber mount you will always have a sloppy drivetrain and continue to put stress on your frame perches.

    IMG_20180204_113935_743.jpg
     
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  9. Jul 31, 2018 at 12:22 PM
    #29
    OldV12

    OldV12 TRD

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    Stock for now :)
    How much?

     
  10. Jul 31, 2018 at 4:04 PM
    #30
    lynlan1819

    lynlan1819 Well-Known Member

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    That will now last the life of the truck,to bad Toyota is so cheap.
     
  11. Aug 2, 2018 at 10:05 AM
    #31
    Bonzen

    Bonzen Solid Offroad motor & transmission mounts

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  12. Aug 23, 2019 at 6:40 PM
    #32
    Fr33Ma$on

    Fr33Ma$on Well-Known Member

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    I know this thread has been dead for a year however I am desperate for ideas, have the engine & tranny out but can’t think of any way to actually bend the mount back into position to be welded, any ideas?
     
  13. Aug 23, 2019 at 6:50 PM
    #33
    Torspd

    Torspd Tor-nication

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    Bottle or floor jack?
     
  14. Aug 30, 2019 at 10:28 AM
    #34
    OldV12

    OldV12 TRD

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    I pulled my entire engine and trans out to fix my motor mounts. Here in Phoenix there is a frame shop that I took my once shell taco so that they can reinforce that area. I did it that way, idk but maybe you can see if a frame shop will fix it for you? The shop here added plates behind the motormount perches, welded it, etc and its solid now.

    IMG_1497.jpg
     
  15. Aug 30, 2019 at 11:05 AM
    #35
    Torspd

    Torspd Tor-nication

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    I really need to add the gussets to my truck.
     
  16. Aug 30, 2019 at 11:09 AM
    #36
    OldV12

    OldV12 TRD

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    Stock for now :)
    Why does it say 4.4L for your truck? Can the 1GR be built?? If so I want in
     
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  17. Aug 30, 2019 at 12:05 PM
    #37
    Torspd

    Torspd Tor-nication

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    Yes. Built a few. Current one has a stroker crank.
     
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  18. Jun 25, 2020 at 3:41 PM
    #38
    Bonzen

    Bonzen Solid Offroad motor & transmission mounts

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    Still selling these 4.0L motor mounts if anyone needs a set! Say goodbye to frame damage:thumbsup:
     
  19. Jun 25, 2020 at 4:11 PM
    #39
    GrundleJuice

    GrundleJuice Well-Known Member

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    [S]Un-Molested[/S] Lightly Molested
    Are you saying that the poly mounts transmit less stress to the frame than the compliant rubber OEM mounts or that the perches are stronger?
     
  20. Jun 26, 2020 at 5:08 AM
    #40
    Torspd

    Torspd Tor-nication

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    The mounts are stronger. There is less flex side to side, so less acceleration of the engine as torques side to side. As it barely can move. That action being hindered reduces the forces caused by such. Doesn’t mean that the other reasons which cause the frame to tear apart are fixed.

    Rust, and a lack of a gusseting on specific models, are still available to play. Heavy abuse, or enough salt can both cause it to still fail, until those aspects are taken care of as well.

    Has to be comprehensive. Not taken out of context.
     
    Last edited: Jun 26, 2020
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