2nd gen manual transmission fix

On the clutcmasters video it would be niece to see the flywheel spinning to show no contact I’m wondering what size shims to use to fix Tacoma v6 6 speed on this hydraulic release bearing mine squeaks bad and time do this soon?

 

My pedal gets stiffer the warmer the truck gets as well. I covered my entire line in a heat sleeve to no avail. I assume the line is swelling but I’ve gotten use to it. Pedal is super soft when cold but stiffer when driving after 30 minutes.

 

I have the exact same thing. Super soft when I first take off, then stiffer over time the longer I drive. It eventually tops out on stiffness, and doesn't get unusable, just gets stiff. Ima bleed it and see if that changes anything.

 

I haven't got around to bleeding mine yet. Let us know if it works. Mine feels like it has gotten less stiff on longer trips.

 

Can't help but wonder if issues are simply due to people not knowing what they're doing.
Whenever I see a skilled person on here show their Clutchmasters, they don't have complaints. The type of people who are also fabricating their own control arms.

Professionals typically pressure bleed vehicle hydraulic systems at 15-20psi.
Not sure why anyone would vacuum bleed.

Bleeder screws when loosened have a gap in the threads that can create bubbles sucked from outside the caliper giving the illusion the system has air when it really doesn't.

 

If I had know about sooner I wouldn’t have bought mine but at 153K mine squeaked a little but at 161k I’m ordering kit ASAP! Just need to learn to use dial caliper to establish shim size?

 

I gravity bled mine

 

Don’t need tonworry about shims with the specific Tacoma kit

 

No need for shims or fancy dial calipers. Clutchmasters created a specific spacer for the tacoma that allows commoners like me to use his unskilled hands in his non-professional garage to install himself. Now back to reading hard words in fancy books so I can learn how to make my own control arms.... then maybe I'll be able to bleed this damn hydro tob!

 

people drop $17k on a used truck and $800 on clutch kit parts
then refuse to invest $50 in a re-usable pressure bleeder tool

Nice

 

Thanks guys I just bought and received mine today no shims now what kind of grease ?

 

There is a spacer in the kit.

 

Any updates or reviews with this kit?

 

Bummer they don't list it for an 09

 

dunno why it wouldnt. i have an 06 and people with atleast a 13 have installed it. not like 09 was a special year for the 6spd or anything

 

Just installed the kit.

Need to figure out why the pedal is soft and slow to return; maybe it could use some more bleeding. Which is strange because I already put 2 liters of DOT4 through the clutch line at 20psi.

Also going to look up what mounting clamps I can use, maybe bolted to empty screw holes on the transmission, to hold the stainless line better and away from the exhaust. Maybe even some custom heat shields.

 

Bleed, bleed, and bleed again. I did mine 3 times before the pedal feel came back to "normal"

Just use a few of these on some of the old accumulator or slave cylinder mounts, worked great for me and already had them laying around. No need for a heat shield if they are close against the transmission.

 

Exactly. I've seen those loops at hardware stores and figured they might work. Will need to find the right size.
I kept my old slave cylinder mounting bolts in hopes of later on using them to screw on loops when I buy them.

I ziptied the bleed point to the other line like the instructions said, and put a rubber screw cap on the end I had laying around.

When you did the 3 bleeds, was that all through the clutch bleed line?
Or were you doing the whole braking system including calipers?
I don't know if that would make a difference. I figure air only got into the slave line, since the brakes didn't get touched.

Do you think flowrate and pressure matters?
IDK what factory spec Toyota recommends, or ClutchMasters

for example Audi, VW, Mercedes, people usually bleed brakes at 15-20psi at whatever flow rate, but on a wet system just for maintenance of replacing old brake fluid
while some repair manuals instruct to bleed ABS blocks with air pockets at 30psi and sometimes cycling it with a scan tool, or driving on loose surface while braking to get ABS to kick in
Which also can be a pain and takes lots of fluid to bleed

 

Yes they work perfect, cheap and easy. Don't remember the size off hand but want to say 5/8" maybe? I have the TRD offroad 6 speed to the clutch reservoir is separate from the brakes entirely. Even if you didn't I believe they are a split reservoir so if you ran out of clutch fluid you wouldn't run out of brake fluid. My reservoir was very small (maybe 1/2 cup), so I bleed 3 times with a buddy filling the reservoir, and I'm underneath draining. If you aren't using the vacuum bleed method it's important you don't leave the bleeder screw open once pressure dissipates otherwise you can suck air back in.

 

I think my TRD Sport had separate lines but I'm not sure. There was a ton of hardlines at the firewall by the reservoir, and a rubber tube coming from the reservoir that I clamped as per a video instruction. But I didn't trace the lines to follow where they all go.
(has ABS but no other electronic aids as far as I know, 2008MY)

pressure bleed at 20psi using an electronic tool that kept the reservoir full at max during the bleed to ensure no introduction of air
though no matter what, the exit line from the bleeder looked to have air leaving it, lots of bubbles
so maybe it just is air
because normally if I open the screw far on a car to let fluid come out faster, you can feel and see it move fast, but it's still fluid and not air
Even heard before some people say it's better to open a bleed screw more (2-3 turns) because the faster flow rate of fluid helps remove air bubbles

I hear gravity bleeding can also be effective, might try that