Mid Travel BS 2.0

It has begun...

 

Had to cut this mount off and adjust it a bit.

 

At this point all is installed.
These things need moar space.. I already have the rubbing right by the rim edge and now contact with the bypasstube at full lock not sure how much more room there is in there even if I do relocte the uppershock mount tabs.

So the next question is how to avoid knocking the bottom of the dual bypass off like @nudavinci64
I really dont want to run a 2 inch spacer.

For now I have ordered 2inch spacers to replace the 1.5s and am hoping that will take care of it for now



Looks like some BR6 17s with 3.5bs?

 

Been reading this thread for a little while, 'bout to ask some really stupid questions, trolling expected, but Google is not cooperating today.
What exactly increases (down)travel on IFS?
For instance, if one were to install say a basic Old Man Emu kit with longer springs and shocks, I am assuming downtravel would decrease.
What specific component(s) limit downtravel, and how does replacing them allow for longer droop?

 

Well with the shocks installed they are your limiting factor...which is why you use limit straps to protect your shocks from being the limiting factor.
Take the shocks off and you limiting factor will be some kind of mechanical stop....depending on the geometry of the LCA to the UCA and the spindle it could be the ball joints...or uniballs depending on your current suspension set up because at some point the balljoint/uniball runs out of movement...it could be the bolt or misalignment spacer coming into contact with the uniball cup the ball joint maxing out its travel....the UCA may contact the top of the spindle...it goes on and on from there.

The one component that limits down travel can vary...any one of the components in your suspension...all depends on the geometry of how they all work together but at some point some movable part will reach its max travel and that will be your limiting factor.

 

Thank you for the info.
So it sounds like on a mild lift, say 2", I would likely not run into any of the above you listed as limiting downtravel factors?

 

Your OEM LCA bushings are the main thing limiting droop on the stock set up. Loosen the alignment bolts with the truck in the air and you'll see the spindle droop another half inch or so.

Next is the UCA hitting the springs on your coil over.

Around the same time the UCA hits the spring your ball joint starts the bind and run out of articulation. And your OEM shocks will run out of extension.

Next the inner CV will reach its maximum allowable angle. You can push it further, but when loaded and spinning it will bind, then fail.

The design of this front end is highly frustrating from a performance perspective, but Toyota did a good job designing something that makes it hard for a single failure to set of a cascade of failures. i.e. both the shock and the UCA/Spring interference protect the CV.

Now, to make mid travel IFS suck less:
1) Replace the LCA with an after market one, this gives you more articulation and more room for the spring.
2) Replace the shock with a King Extended Travel version (Or Fox or Icon).
2)a) OME shocks are okay, but you won't see any increase in wheel travel)
3) Replace the LCA bushing with a white-line bushing or go all in and buy new LCAs.
4) Limit straps so you don't blow up your CVs with the extra 3/4" of travel you just payed 4 grand to acquire.

If you actually want more travel it's probably less heartache in the long run to just buy a Dirt King long travel kit and bolt it on.

 

Nah, you would only run into those if your shock was removed. With shock installed you will only droop what you have left in the shock shaft (most OEM replacement coilovers run 5.5”-6.5” travel), but keep in mind, shock travel is just at the shock. Your wheels travel a bit more because of the double wishbone design of IFS. A 2” lift is a good spot to be in with stock geometry, it still allows for good up travel compression while leaving you some droop to play with.

 

Perfect, thank you for consolidating all of that for me. Now I'm starting understand how everything works together.

 

No problem.

If you go back to the first page of this thread there's a bunch of build threads linked, tons of good knowledge there.

 

Perfect, thank you for the info.
I was just interested in this because I had a '98 Ranger and turned the torsion bars to get a little over an inch IIRC. I also installed some RS5000s on it at the same time and remember downtravel was significantly limited. Mayne that was because the shocks were designed for stock travel.
I'm deciding whether or not to just go with a simple OME or something full blown like discussed on this thread. If the OME is going to limit downtravel like on my Ranger then I'll have to look into something more complex.
I work for the CA DOJ, so just took a 10% pay cut, so I have to consider cheaper options now I guess.

 

Yeah I was there, almost made my head explode.
Glad you guys could dumb it down for me.

 

going with 10" 5165s on rear of my 1st gen. no extra weight on the rear. anybody have recommendations on valving best suited for washboard. running the 255 valved 5125s now which have leaked out. was thinking about going down to the 170 valved shocks

 

Hey guys, been lurking for a while. A lot of you are running some substantial setups. I've been learning a lot by browsing the pages here. That being said, I'm looking for some advice.

I have a 1gen Prerunner double cab. I use it as a DD and to go camping. So it gets loaded with gear and stuff from time to time. Most of the "remote" camping I do isn't as close to as remote as a lot of guys on here due to not having 4x4. I mostly go to Joshua Tree, Pismo, Mex (not right now), Big Sur, State Parks, Utah, that sort of stuff. I'm not interested in crawling, but I do like having comfort on dirt roads the street and like the idea of playing around out in the desert more than crawling in the mountains. Not like I can do it anyway with my truck.

Right now: I'm running an OME set up with 881's, Dakars, and stock uppers.

My plan: Camburg Uni Uppers, Fox Fabtech 2.0's freshly rebuilt from a TW member (cheap $200), and some non-resi fox 2.0's in the rear. I know the 2.0's don't have the extended travel, so I'm not sure if I should get a different shock in the back. I plan to keep my stock LCA's and replace the bushings with the Whiteline ones everyone recommends. I also plan to replace my Outer Tie rods and steering rack bushings. I did my LBJ's a week ago. I'd like not to have to replace the inners if I dont have to due to budget constraints. I'm at 210k currently. I know this set up isn't very "mid-travel," but I thought it would be good to ask here and hopefully get pointed in the right direction. I'm on a tighter budget than most on here and just want something that will ride nice and offer me to have some fun without killing my wallet. Which, I know is sort of an oxymoron. Thanks, everyone!

 

Anyone know of any companies making bedside support brackets for high clearance bumpers? I know Pelfreybilt used to make them and that what I have on my stock fenders, but looking to get another set for my neighbors truck since we did a high clearance on that.

Thanks

 

Mobtown does, or at least did. You could reach out to them.