1st Gen A/C System Replacement How-To (Seized Compressor)

Nice, I'm unfortunately not seeing a kit under 2004 2.7L

I'd like to ADD, following OP for my daily driver I ordered to the tee exactly what he did and it worked out flawlessly minus a squeaky belt and I now know my fan clutch is going, this time around for the 4wd times are hard so want to spend a bit less so thinking a kit would be good. Amazon seems to have a few

 

Here's the kit if you ever need it. 2004 - Tacoma - 2.7 L4 - Heat and Air Conditioning - A/C Compressor & Component Kit.

 

Thank you bro lol

I must have glanced over it a few times, its late and i've had a long day.

 

@CS_AR it actually ends up being cheaper due to shipping that I order all parts from Amazon, went all DENSO except for a UAC evaporator core. Its weird how shipping and hawaii works, but I ordered

Denso Compressor
Denso Dryer/Reciever
Denso Condenser
Denso Expansion Valve
Denso Thermistor
UAC Evap core

 

Looks like all good parts. Glad to see it worked out.

 

Only thing im missing is a pressure switch which I cannot find the denso part.

 

Found it on Amazon, had to use four season part.

 

I believe it to be 88374-30010; at least, that's what my dealer ordered two of for me . They come in on Thursday.

-------------------------------------------------------

So, I've just completed a bunch of this work. I've replaced the following and put the FSM amount of PAG46 into each:

• Everything in the cab:
  • Evap core (40cc)
  • Expansion valve
  • Pressure switch
• Compressor (125cc)
• Receiver/Drier (20cc)

When I charge the system, the manifold gives me pressures that I'd expect - ~34psi on the low side, 225psi on the high side.

Here's the "but":

1. The A/C still isn't blowing as cold as I'd expect. It's cool, for sure - blowing around 58-60°F on an 85°F day - but my 3d gen 4Runner blows air in the 52-53°F range on the same day.
2. The sight glass in the A/C Receiver/Drier isn't acting quite as I'd expect. During normal operation, it appears reasonably clear - well, yellow due to the UV dye that's in the system - which is correct. However, when I shut down the engine, the FSM states that it should bubble momentarily and then go clear again. As far as I can tell, it does not - it stays yellow. The FSM suggests that this means there's too much refrigerant, but I'm quite certain the correct amount is in the system, and the pressures on the manifold are correct. I am confused.

So, A/C experts - internet or otherwise - with those concerns I still have - what do you think? Right now, I'm just in wait-and-see mode to see if this thing is fixed. And I don't love wait-and-see!

@CS_AR, @ThunderOne

 

Are you running with the same/original condenser? If yes, did you flush the condenser while everything was apart?

 

Anyone have issues with their AC drain constantly clogging? I can't tell if it's the evap freezing up.

 

Running the original condenser; it's the only major component I didn't replace.

I didn't flush it as my issue was a small leak somewhere Toyota said "in the evap core," not a grenaded compressor.

What are you thinking about the condenser?

 

Hard to guess from a distance. Could there be something blocking flow around the condenser?

 

I mean, I suppose there could be, though I'm not sure what it would be since the rest of the system was/is clean. I thought maybe you knew something I didn't since you went right to it with the question. Maybe I should just replace it anyway, since it's the only component I haven't replaced (well, except the lines).

I'm wondering if I have too much oil in the system somehow. Does the oil move around much from component to component, or is it just R134a moving around?

 

Too much oil will reduce cooling capacity. I just followed directions for the amount of oil to fill. If you don't have a leak, no need to replace it if it hadn't been contaminated.

 

Yeah, I mean as I replaced components, I put in the speced amount of oil for each component. But then the reduced cooling is throwing me off and making me wonder what the issue is.

 

Does the AC temperature improve when you are moving at higher speed?
How's the fan clutch?

 

Higher speed - don't know, have only had it in the driveway after the compressor replacement. Gets a bit better at 2K RPM than 1500 RPM, but nowhere near the 40s.

Fan clutch - I mean, I think it's OK. What should I look for? I have no overheating problems at all - steady warm engine temps at 188-190 all the time.

 

I guess I'm trying to see if air moving faster through the condenser improves the condition or not. That could at least let us know if we're looking at a 'get more air through condenser' scenario or something with refrigerant. BUT youve had gauges on the refrigerant pressures though right? And the high side pressure is in spec?

 

It could be viewed as a band-aid fix, but in middle east type climates, on the Cruisers and Hiluxes (plural Hiluxii?) Toyota would include an electric pusher fan in front of the condenser behind the grill. Also the fan clutches came with a heavier hydraulic oil so that the fan would kick on sooner and stay engaged longer

 

Gotcha.

I should give it a drive and see if things improve. Will do that today.

To answer your second question - yes, I've had the gauges on it. 30-35 on the low side (in spec) and 225-250 on the high side (again, as I understand it, in spec).