Help me decide if this is worth buying!

here’s the catch. I live in Kentucky. The truck is in Orlando lmao. While I do have family there that I see often, I’d hate to go down there over the weekend and drive it, hate it, and leave empty handed and sleep deprived. That’s my reason for making this thread that I should have included in OP..

 

If you've never driven one before and you make that trip just to buy a truck (seeing family is nice but not the real reason you'd go lol) I think your initial reaction will be a resounding "meh"

Try to find a 96-04 2.7 in your area just to test drive it and then gauge your reaction before going that far

 

I should have mentioned that I had a scsb for a few weeks I was fixing for my brother (it was our late fathers old truck). It was okay. I don’t need to haul the mail through town. What I do need TO BE ABLE TO DO is get somewhere in a timely manner and that’s kinda my main concern. It had the 2.7 in it as well. And I really think it had some 32’s on it. Granted it wasn’t tagged or registered so it was mostly a matter of driving it through the suburbs. I got it up to 70 but I can’t recall what it was like rpm or power wise ):

 

This do anything for you?

 

@Slamuel regretfully the numbers we need will be right after the end of the barcode... just outside of the view of that picture

 

The owner is going to send me some detailed frame pics tomorrow and I can totally request one of the full door code. Anything else I ought to get?

 

Tell him to get a shot of the exhaust manifold as detailed as he can get or a nice close up shot of the top section where the valves dump together (sorry for the crappy description, I'd take a pick of what I mean but I upgraded mine) ... the pre 00 tacoma used a cast manifold that is prone to cracking, I've had three 3rz motors and all three had cracked manifolds.. depending or where it's cracked you can have an issue of melting the wiring harness that runs under the intake tube (like my first 3rz) or you can have an issue of a horrible noise from the leak and even worse performance than these dogs already are (my other 2 3rzs)

When I rebuilt my motor I installed the mini tube header Toyota created and installed on all 01-04 tacomas

 

huge high five for that. Not to mention I don’t want to breathe that. I’m already dumb enough.

 

yea I about knocked myself out with the fumes on the second motor I had, the egr has a tube that comes around the back of the engine into the manifold and mine was cracked at that union.. dumping fumes RIGHT into the passenger side firewall, only noticed it an idle but drive thrus killed me lol

 

The axle code is the one circled in red here:

 

I got a 4x4 auto single cab on 31 Mud Terrains and the mofo can get to 70mph on the freeway but she likes to be at 60mph, up a hill im gunning it, I always ride on the right lane, deff not fast on the highway, city driving fast enough for me, youll be alright with a manual tho, check for rust, also the punisher edition is too much luls get rid of that corny emblem if you buy it asap

 

if you got a punisher sticker I think it’s safe to assume the only thing you punish is other men’s genitals tbh. Would be first mod. I’d probably bring debadge stuff with me

“PUNISHER EDITION.... 4 cyl no locker”
Cringe

 

I have no idea why people on here are acting like you can’t cruise 80 with a 3rz. I run 32’s that are C rated and have a shell and have no problem cruising 80. Uphill is another story. Running 70-75 is the sweet spot for MPG for me tho.

 

What's your gear ratio?

What kinda rpms do you see at 80mph?

If I remember correctly you guys can have some pretty good hills in SoCal. I know up here in the PNW I'm downshifting alot for the hills lol. I also have a shell and it's probably just my baby foot but I hate the way the engine sounds when I try to go faster than 70mph. I'm still well below the redline but it's just too damn loud

 

I have 235/85r16 (31.7”) E rated. 3.91 gears, MT. 2.7l. Can do 80 on a flat road, sure. Hills are low and slow. I can drive it as it is, but 4.56 would feel a lot better imo

Gearing will make a big difference. These trucks come with a wide range of options from the factory, so not every truck drives the same.

 

I'm in Ky.
I have a rust free 97 V6 manual that I'll sell you,
185k on it,
It's not as pretty as the truck you posted pictures of but it's not near as expensive either.

 

I would say just one thing Drive a 3.4 then then the 4 cylinder .

Then make up your mind .

 

100% agree

 

For the v6 recommendations, I’m trying but this individual will not answer.

https://www.cars.com/vehicledetail/detail/811400049/overview/

 

You forgot the most important consideration: RPM?