URD Mark 2 Y Pipe V6

Does anyone have one of these? Is it worth the money?

 

I've been looking at getting one of these also. Do they have one for the 6MT?

 

yes...and yes...and yes.

 

In what way to the second yes?

 

it gives the truck more power in the mid and upper range rpm in all gears. it will also change the tone of your exhaust. if you have a stock exhaust itll sound louder by a meager but noticeable amount. if you have an aftermarket exhaust sometimes it changes the way it sounded previously.

EDIT: i will add that it will pop a cel, even though the rear set of 02 sensors is post cat. i havent had this issue when i had a urd system on my old xrunner, so i didnt really anticipate it. i bought a set of 02 sims from this place called big daddies garage. you install sims it in the 02 sensor bung, in turn the 02 sensor screws into the big daddy elbow. its been a few days and havent had the cel pop up. usually if it did you would get it about 5mins into the ride.

 

Thanks for the info. I'm going to look into this, more power is always a good thing. The Ol Mare is pulling a heavy wagon any more and could use the help.

 

Does this relocate the stupid stock exhaust bend that hangs low? I’ve squished that thing so many times now.. why they have exhaust as the lowest point on an “off-road truck” beats me!

 

Probably the same engineer that thought such high reverse gear in MT would be great.

 

@Ol'gray mare: yeah. to me it was definately worth it. its not like other mods where youre like, "oh, but i can feel it in the butt dyno!" no. you can tell because the truck pulls harder and when crusing, you dont really have to downshift to catch yourself in the powerband. if you downshift, its to boogie lol.

@2dogs_and_a_taco: the ypipe from the driver side bank is rerouted to infront the crossmember , but i think thats only to alleviate the exhaust getting squished and constricted like how then oem ypipe is originally ran. its hilarious when you take the old ypipe out and see the flattened part of the oem y and think to your yourself "wtf is this?" lol

 

We've seen intakes, exhaust, programms that change shift points, but do not, absolutely do not give more horse power beyond the variance of dyno runs.

 

@Grossomotto: youre eliminating the rear 2 cats plus the crushed part of the oem ypipe. you definately will notice a difference. will the dyno numbers change? i dont know, and i dont really care. i care about usable power, which this delivers. there is no disputing that.

 

Ok if no cats then more power, I'm sure. Seen too many posts on trd exhaust and intake which do very little.

 

There’s no guarantee that eliminating the cats will make more power. Most engines like some back pressure. We’d have to dyno back to back to see if it makes more power. But I like that I won’t squish my exhaust every time I off-road so I’m sold.

 

I have these.
For the money, great value for being T304 Stainless Steel, CnC Mandrel Bend and TIG welded pipes.

However, I have nothing but issues.

If you have a 2WD, do not get them.
The 2WD's transmission crossmember frame is shallower, thus you will have clearance issues right before the collector. No matter how much you adjust or wiggle the piping, it will always be too close to either the transmission crossmember frame or the driveshaft subframe on a 2WD.

On a 4x4, you will have a good inch of clearance...

It drops the driver side hanger and goes under the transmission pan. Ground clearance does not seem to be any better than stock, might be worse. Since it drops one hanger and the springed ball joint flange, engine vibrations are more noticeable (when the pipe is not hitting the frame...)

You lose both post cats. Performance gains are debateable.

If you get CEL, just use proper high-temp copper anti-seize. I used some cheap aluminum anti seize, and always got CEL. Checked techstream and it showed both banks giving no read out. Just a small spread of copper antiseize on the treads is enough. No CEL for half a year.

Also if you have an aftermarket exhaust, it will become very raspy. I have an MBRP, which I liked. Now with the URD Ypipe, it has a super tinny sound around 3 to 4k from 2nd gear and up.
I like the deeper low rpm rumble, but I really dislike the sound in the mid rpms.
Will be switching out the muffler for a Borla 1in2out, which I "hear" does a better job at killing rasp, eliminating drone and making a V6 sound decent.

Will also be switchIng out the Ypipe for AFE's Twisted Series Ypipe.

 

I have a URD Y I just traded out for the JFR @Roostfactor pipe.
I ran the URD Y with both OEM manifolds and equal length headers and never had a CEL for 3 years.

I’m going to refresh the ceramic coat and put them up for sale in the coming weeks.

 

Just got the exhaust reroute for the last bamf skidplate

 

I’m jealous! I feel some shopping in my future.

 

Also, back pressure is always bad.

What happens when you expand piping or lose the cats, is that you are losing exhaust velocity, thus losing exhaust scavenging power, which can leave already burnt gasses in the chamber, sap power in the return stroke, and lower suction on intake stroke.

It's not much of a problem on FI engines

A smaller piping can increase exhaust velocity, thus helping the engine during lower RPM ranges.

Larger piping loses that, but has the benefit of more room to flow in the high RPM ranges.

.

 

Wouldn’t you lose torque and throttle response below 2500rpm with no back pressure? I know in a racing application straight pipes or even headers are great but in a truck that’s driven on the street and needs to pull or have low rpm response I thought that would be bad?

 

Yes, but it is not because of no back pressure.

With larger piping you lose exhaust velocity (the vacuum strength of exhaust pulses) which in turn lowers torque and throttle response.