CV boot torn with a lift, think axle is also worn

Hello,
I bought a 2010 @ 67k miles a few weeks ago. It has about a 3.5" lift with the following components:
5100s front and rear, front set to .85"
OME 887s
Light racing UCAs
3/4" front plate spacers
Dakar rear leaf pack

On a recent trip, I noticed the inside cv boot on the passenger side is torn and gushing grease. I believe that entire side is worn, as I hear a clicking/popping on that side when turning the wheel all the way to the left. I also have fairly intense steering wheel vibrations from 55-65mph.



I've only had the truck a few weeks and am new to doing any type mechanical work on my own. This weekend, I'm planning to remove the spacers and take the coilovers to a shop to have the 5100s set from .85" to 0". After that, I'll put the suspension back together and take it to a shop to have the cv axle replaced and get the truck aligned. I don't think I want to do the cv axle myself due to my experience and tools I need, and I also want this fixed sooner than later.

So I have a few questions. How safe is it to drive with the condition it's in? Do I have the right order of operations (ie, lower the front end first, then have a shop do the cv axle, or could I get the cv axle done first?). I found there are CVJ axles made for lifted trucks, anyone have any experience with those? After I lower my front end, I'm assuming the cv angles will be close enough to stock to use stock cv axles, but I'd like to know what I should purchase before taking it to a shop

Any input is appreciated, thank you

 

You can drive it on those CV axles- the damage is already done and will only get worse, but I think its safe to say that CV is toast. Just don't put it in 4x4 and only drive when necessary until you get it fixed.

With those coils I don't think you'll be able to sit any lower than a 3" lift. YMMV.

If you want to keep it that way, by all means that's totally fine, you'll just need to do a little more work. If you are still running the stock upper control arms, those will need to be replaced with extended ones. And yes, a longer CV axle will certainly be beneficial. CVJ Axles is pretty much the go-to here.

Alternatively you can swap out those 887 coils for 884's or 885's for less lift. Essentially 2" and below you can still use the stock CV axles and UCA's without mishap.

Good luck! And welcome to TW!





EDIT: Those bilstein 5100's should not be run with ANY preload on ANY OME coil, so your right in that that needs to be set to 0.

 

I just replaced the CVs on my truck with CVJ axles.... don't have a lot of miles on them yet, but my truck isn't making noises anymore. From the research I did, many folks say to go with re-manufactured CVs over aftermarket.... so I did....

IMO....and if you can afford to do so, do it all while you have it apart for your coilovers. It will be that much easier to do with it all apart and you'll save a lot of time.... the only "special" tool you'll need is a 35mm socket for the axle nut (if you have a 4x4)..... I was able to get the socket at Menards....

 

3.5" is way too high of a front lift for an IFS 4wd truck like the Tacoma. Even 3" seems to cause problems for people with CV axles and the boots. You're going to have to lower the lift down until you find the right amount where the boots aren't rubbing and the axle is too stressed from too much angle.

2.5" lift seems to be the agreed upon safe limit for most people with 4wd and suspension lifts up front. If you need more lift beyond that then achieve it with bigger tires

On my 04 I had my Kings set at 3" initially, went through 2 CV axles before I finally gave in and lowered it to about 2.25". Haven't had any problems since.

And diff drops don't help btw, don't waste the money on those

I would start by setting those 5100s to the 0 setting and see if that does it, it will ride better too that way. That or take the 3/4" spacers off

 

There is a lot of additional weight in the front. Has a super charger, steel bumper, winch, skid plates. I know these coils were intended for extra weight, so I'm expecting to sit slightly lower than 3" when I lower it. Right now the front is level with only rear dakar leaf pack and 887s in back, so removing the spacers alone should lower the front below a 3" lift

Upper control arms have already been replaced by extended one. Thanks for the advice, glad to have so much help on the forums!

 

Great, thanks for the advice, I was planning on doing both of those. Ride quality and maintenance are much higher priority for me than ground clearance, so I'm hoping with those two adjustments, an extended CV axle, and an alignment, I'll be good to go

 

Awesome, I'll plan on ordering some CVJs. Did you go with extended or stock length?

 

Get stock length. You are not running a long travel front suspension. Good luck and welcome to TW.

 

I got the 9808 TR

 

What suspension components have you added? I was torn between these and the 9808 T. I ordered the 9808 T, but not sure if that was the right decision

 

@Dstin how did you make out with the 9808t? Thinking about ordering those. Was thinking the TR but I have a newer OEM on I the other side and doesn’t seem to have any problems.

 

I ended up calling and switching my order - I went with TR, which may have been overkill