1998 Tacoma Play in Steering Wheel

1998 4WD Tacoma 177k miles.

The steering wheel on my "new-to-me" Tacoma has about 3/4" "play"measured at the rim.

I wiggled the wheel back and forth and had a partner look for "lost motion" at universal joints in the steering shaft, flex coupling, rack, or tie rod ends.

He said the play was totally in a U-Joint he could feel inside the cab below the steering column.

I found a diagram here ( https://parts.toyota.com/p/Toyota__...t-Coupling--Flexible/63545789/4523035090.html ) and believe maybe this one
( https://parts.toyota.com/p/Toyota__...ke--Steering-Sliding/63552040/4529035040.html ) nay be the culprit, but I am not sure.

Anyone notice such play with an answer how to fix it?

If I picked the right part, I see it lists for $482 JUST for the U-Joint coupling!

Tell me it ain't so!

I saw that the specs ( I think I found it in the owners manual?) said something like an inch or 1.25" is considered "acceptable" though I'd rather it be zero in my truck.

I this play somewhat common, and does it REALLY cost $500 to fix it?

Thanks,
Bob

 

Don't spend 500 dollars

 

YES, Thank-you.

I kept looking here and then just Googled and found THIS thread:

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/steering-wheel-play.474634/

I spoke to a friend who runs and import shop and he recommended:

1) Drilling and threading the outer shaft and using an Allen set screw with Loctite to solid-up the play by tightening the set screw until there is no rotational play, saying in the even of an accident the inner shaft will STILL slide and protect the driver
2) Drill precisely and inset a tight fitting brass brazing rod that SHOULD shear in a collision then slide
3) Fit a piece of brass shim stock between the two shafts (at the gap between the two) and let it extend an inch or so and secure with nylon strapping tape so it will be retained, but in the event of a collision the shafts will slide as intended

He did not like the welded-bead technique in case it does NO break looked in a collision.

I do not see how to do any of these w/o removing the steering column as some suggested though.

And NO, I would not spend $500, as much as I dislike play!

Toyota is very proud of their parts. I need a rear mud flap (one was missing) and Toyota wants $90 for ONE rear replacement mud flap! I bought a semi-mud flap on Amazon for $22 and when it comes I will use the remaining flap as a pattern to make TWO new rear mud flaps (since they are mirror images) and replace BOTH back ones. A few years back I needed a new one for my Dodge Cummins Dually (law requires mud flaps for dual wheels) and I bought a PAIR of new ones with metal penal at bottom facing aft (stiffens the flap and is "bling.") and they only cost $63 a PAIR and I thought THAT was a lot.

Bob

 

Go here and check out post #42

 

Yes, that post is in the tread I posted and it makes it look easy.

Hopefully it IS, or will be!

Have you done it, and if so did you do it that way?

The play is not out of limits, nor does it making driving truly unpleasant, but it IS annoying!

 

Yes, that’s exactly the way I did it. If this is the culprit, you will be amazed at how much better it drives after you fix it. I fixed mine with two small opposing tack welds.

 

the play is the annoying part. the steering wheel "slip-joint" is the (as I see it) un-needed part. the rack and all joints sit behind the engine and frame cross-member. the only significant way that the steering wheel is going to hit your chest if there is an impact from the driver's side front fender at the pinch weld. and if that happens it won't matter anyway, the door will cave first causing the cab to deform and "move" the steering shaft towards the passenger side. if you get hit from the front it literally has to go through the cross-member and back another 6-8 inches before the vertical steering shaft is touched. great concepts, just in Toyota where everything is behind the solid points, makes it less useful, which is why many do the tack-weld