Northern Virginia Roll Call

This is what I have left y’all. First come first serve! Come get it. @ilubtimmyhoscan TW express stuff

optima blue top 31M Battery and palfreybilt cage 300$

Firestone Airbags + daystar cradles 250$ + stock bumps

wheelers super bumps 30$+ ur stock

SSO stage one and 2 front bumper 500$ plus ur stock bumper cover and stuff must be color match SOLD

TRD PRO SKID PLATE 250$

 

Is it 1/4” drive? I would say the 3/8” or smaller 1/2” drive would be better for a truck one. I have a 1/4” and it’s great, but it is limited.

 

We lived there from 68' - 72'. My dad worked at Hickam AFB.

 

Its the 1/2 inch drive iirc

 

If it’s 1/2” it’ll be great. Even the 3/8” is handy. They might not be the strongest thing on the block but will cover most of what you’ll be using it for as a truck impact.

 

Biggest issue Ive found is that I cant find dewalt impact bits locally. I purchased craftsman because thats all i could find

 

I use harbor freight

 

The great GMRS saga continues: Was getting interference. Thought it might be because I had coiled the excess antenna wire up. Trimmed it down and respliced another PL-259 on. I'm still getting it. For test purposes I tried the antenna the radio comes with. Works fine when the cable isn't wrapped up. Someone here suggested using LMR:200 cable instead of the RG-58 the antenna mount comes with. Because better shielding. I look all over and the best I can do is LMR-195. For $70. Because custom cable. Haven't hit buy now yet. Especially if it doesn't fix the problem. There's really no other way to run the cable. Insanity.

 

Sucks you are having these issues. I want this thing to work for ya.

Custom cut (sounds built with connectors). https://www.theantennafarm.com/catalog/coaxial-cable-342/custom-made-cable-assemblies-344/

or buy, by the foot. and build your self. https://www.theantennafarm.com/catalog/coaxial-cable-342/coaxial-cable-by-the-foot-345/

For shits... Call 'em and tell them what you have going on. They might be able to point you in the right direction.

 

Just walkin back in here like you own the place...

 

@crashdb This is the assembly I have - one on each side of the hood. The NMO end is basically sealed once you add some heat shrink. Dunno what PL-259 connectors you are using but if they're the twist-on type, I'd pass on them. They're fine for a quick and dirty CB install but nothing but issues with them on VHF/UHF. I personally like crimp connectors but solder work just as well if you have a gun that can run hot enough to get the job done before the insulator melts.

https://www.theantennafarm.com/catalog/larsen-nmokhf200noconn-8452

LMR-195 and LMR-200 are basically equivalent in this case with 195 using the same connectors as RG58. LMR200 has a slightly thicker center wire that doesn't work with all the standard UHF connectors... for crimp connectors like I use I have to buy specific ones.

 

Appreciate it. I'm going to email some folks and see what they think. Or if they can sprinkle some fairy dust on it.

 

I have a set of TC bed stiffners if anyone wants em 75$

 

I was using crimp on. Center pin and ferrule crimped. Never done it before so I had some practice ends. I'm still thinking it's the cable. Initially, it's fine and then I start the truck and the interference starts. Doesn't stop when I cut the truck off so maybe the wire is still energized?

I'll hold onto the ones you guys have linked. Problem is the mount I have is 3/8" and I don't think there's enough meat for a 3/4" hole. I'll have to check.

 

Go gmrs they said. It’ll be fun they said.

 

CB sucks!

 

If you aren’t running the power wire straight to the battery, do that. Running it anywhere else is a potential for added noise. I’ve run hood mounts, NMO mounts in the roof, and even truck bed rail mounts and haven’t had any noise feedback, running power directly to battery. Ground I’ve run variable either to nearest clean body ground or to the OEM fender ground by the battery.

 

It's run to my sPOD. Which goes straight to the battery. That okay? It worked for the CB.

 

That’s how I have my gmrs, works fine. Straight to battery is ideal though, worth checking at this point.

 

Grounding & power supply don't matter nearly as much for GMRS as they do for CB.