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Tacoma Fan Coupling Clutch issue ? Loss of engine pep with AC sometimes

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by GQ7227, Jun 28, 2020.

  1. Jun 28, 2020 at 9:56 AM
    #1
    GQ7227

    GQ7227 [OP] mw survivor

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    309km east of Hazard ...the good life
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    '97 black SR5 0g ~ MT @ 176k ...
    black woolWax, green IFC, borlaCB, custom Line-X PC drums, skid, nuts, hooks, 1/4 silver frame...
    what could the culprit be?

    perhaps a worn needing replaced compressor
    maybe a worn ac idler :notsure:

    driving 6 hours with the AC on with minimal stop and go the other day

    got back into the city and turned the ac OFF, feeling sluggish no pep
    stopped for taco fuel, turned engine off, filled up, started up, left ac OFF
    and the hp returned like nothing ever happened

    whats going on here?
    idk!

    what other pieces may be doing this
     
    Last edited: Jun 28, 2020
    TXpro4X4 likes this.
  2. Jun 28, 2020 at 9:58 AM
    #2
    PennSilverTaco

    PennSilverTaco Encyclopedia of useless information...

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    Charlie
    Central Bucks, Pennsylvania
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    Don’t know if this is related, but my A/C will briefly not blow cold under rapid acceleration...
     
    GQ7227[OP] likes this.
  3. Jun 28, 2020 at 10:01 AM
    #3
    GQ7227

    GQ7227 [OP] mw survivor

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    309km east of Hazard ...the good life
    Vehicle:
    '97 black SR5 0g ~ MT @ 176k ...
    black woolWax, green IFC, borlaCB, custom Line-X PC drums, skid, nuts, hooks, 1/4 silver frame...
    it was blowing cold considering the temps and humidity it was tasked to handle

    i rarely if ever have the AC on in stop and go city driving, that is what the windows open handles!

    it just lost the pep this 3.4 is supposed to have, like it was dragging along all limp through the gears after i shut it down until the engine was turned off
    the restart at the pump made it chipper again
     
  4. Jun 28, 2020 at 10:07 AM
    #4
    GQ7227

    GQ7227 [OP] mw survivor

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    309km east of Hazard ...the good life
    Vehicle:
    '97 black SR5 0g ~ MT @ 176k ...
    black woolWax, green IFC, borlaCB, custom Line-X PC drums, skid, nuts, hooks, 1/4 silver frame...
    you think that is the problem maybe? worn AC clutch
    i have looked at it while idling but not sure what its doing under there while on the move at 20-40 mph

    sauce was good with the discount, 140c
     
    High Noon likes this.
  5. Jun 28, 2020 at 10:57 AM
    #5
    GQ7227

    GQ7227 [OP] mw survivor

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    J A Y
    309km east of Hazard ...the good life
    Vehicle:
    '97 black SR5 0g ~ MT @ 176k ...
    black woolWax, green IFC, borlaCB, custom Line-X PC drums, skid, nuts, hooks, 1/4 silver frame...
    it had a problem last summer season with some awful grinding noise in each gear at certain RPMs (2.1k) after I shut the AC off and kept driving in the city traffic
    that noise has not resurfaced this year so far
    gremlins...
     
  6. Jun 28, 2020 at 12:33 PM
    #6
    skeezix

    skeezix Well-Known Member

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    I would take the truck to a qualified A/C shop and get the A/C system thoroughly checked out. Should cost around $100 and take an hours but then you will know (if the mechanic is worth his salt) the condition of the compressor. The mechanic should recharge the system too during his checkout.
     
  7. Jun 28, 2020 at 12:44 PM
    #7
    0xDEADBEEF

    0xDEADBEEF Swaying to the Symphony of Destruction

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    Sounds to me like the AC clutch might not be disengaging. You can watch it engaging and disengaging. When its disengaged the center part of the AC pulley will not appear to be spinning, but the belt will still be going around it. If you've been running the AC then turn it off, and it feels like its dragging, pull over and pop the hood, if the center of the AC clutch is spinning, your AC clutch is broke.

    Its worth getting fixed soon, too. If the AC clutch isn't releasing, then the AC can't shut itself off on low or high pressure conditions. Which isn't good.
     
  8. Jun 28, 2020 at 3:13 PM
    #8
    Wyoming09

    Wyoming09 Well-Known Member

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    That is strange my AC is on all the time until things freeze again

    Fan on High.

    I never notice a lack of engine performance that extreme

    Then I carry a lot of weight

    Stop and go driving as well

    Higher then normal pressure but not enough to seize the compressor if you have an electrical problem and it is not cycling like it should.
     
    GQ7227[OP] likes this.
  9. Jul 2, 2020 at 8:23 AM
    #9
    GQ7227

    GQ7227 [OP] mw survivor

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    J A Y
    309km east of Hazard ...the good life
    Vehicle:
    '97 black SR5 0g ~ MT @ 176k ...
    black woolWax, green IFC, borlaCB, custom Line-X PC drums, skid, nuts, hooks, 1/4 silver frame...
    had a chat with the Toyota master mechanic at yesterdays appointment. He wasn't really sure what was going on from a verbal description and said sometimes these issues need to actually break to figure out what is going on. $891 estimate to replace denso A/C compressor with new refrigerant is big expenditure

    the other mechanic in the shop hinted that it may just be the fan clutch wearing (part# 08921-04950)
    it may not be losing hp but sure sounds like it if the fan is roaring louder than it usually does/should be as RPMs increase, i often shift gears from that sound instead of always looking at the tach out of habit

    he said the use of A/C puts a load on the engine and warms it up quicker making fan work harder and louder :notsure:

    does that sound plausible? a new fan clutch would be much less output expenditure cost to start throwing parts at it

     
  10. Jul 2, 2020 at 10:43 AM
    #10
    OLDHMECH61

    OLDHMECH61 Well-Known Member

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    Humm the master Toyota tech just spat out a compressor change price ? the Denso compressor is pretty reliable and for the money wouldn't shotgun that change, as far as the A/C system goes have it checked out by a local shop that does A/C work not the dealership. The fan clutch is easy to check, with the engine cold and not running it should spin freely by hand or freewheel. When the engine is hot and not running (meaning just after shutdown) it should have resistance to rotation or may not move at all because its engaged. Also you could have an idler pulley bearing going bad, Im not as familiar with the V6 but would think that if one of these components (A/C compressor, idler pulley or A/C clutch) were going bad or locking up the belt would be squealing very loud. If the compressor is starting to fail or You have a bad cycling switch or a clogged expansion valve the A/C shop should be able to diagnose it quickly.
    Good Luck.
     
    cruiserguy and GQ7227[OP] like this.
  11. Jul 2, 2020 at 11:06 AM
    #11
    GQ7227

    GQ7227 [OP] mw survivor

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    J A Y
    309km east of Hazard ...the good life
    Vehicle:
    '97 black SR5 0g ~ MT @ 176k ...
    black woolWax, green IFC, borlaCB, custom Line-X PC drums, skid, nuts, hooks, 1/4 silver frame...
    i honestly do not understand what exactly causes the engine & fan (if thats what i am hearing) to 'roar and seem to strain' after turning the A/C button off (that has been on for many hours & miles on the highway) then getting into city stop and go driving, turning engine off to put some more juice in the tank, re-starting and its all back to normal!

    i absolutely abhor porking out a friggn 'diagnostic check fee' when nothing is found to be operating improperly...
    and the killer! is when those shops, after paying a 'diagnostic fee' and the problem is found, not having that 'diagnostic fee' subtracted from the repair total

    certainly i understand that some shops do not want to diagnose something free of charge and then only to have you go elsewhere or diy if you can handle it

    i asked for the compressor change quote just for my curiosity having no clue about it, its old and slightly weathered being down low
     
  12. Jul 2, 2020 at 2:03 PM
    #12
    Wyoming09

    Wyoming09 Well-Known Member

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    When the fan clutch locks in the do tend to roar more then when they are just coasting.

    It has been so long I don`t really take notice I can`t recall if I ever changed mine

    From the heat soak unless your city driving is enough cool down I would think the fan clutch would stay locked when stopping for gas

    Is your engine getting old and tired that you seem to really notice the loss of power ??
     
    GQ7227[OP] likes this.
  13. Jul 2, 2020 at 2:13 PM
    #13
    GQ7227

    GQ7227 [OP] mw survivor

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    309km east of Hazard ...the good life
    Vehicle:
    '97 black SR5 0g ~ MT @ 176k ...
    black woolWax, green IFC, borlaCB, custom Line-X PC drums, skid, nuts, hooks, 1/4 silver frame...
    without any A/C operation at all its quite chipper still, very much so
    its even very chipper in the early morning with the A/C just being turned on once i hit the entrance ramp and everything is at operating temp

    i tested the drain the A/C has on the engine and fuel consumption while just city stop/go driving
    started with about 1/3 tank of fuel left and ran it to the point of needing a fillup, it lost nearly 20 miles on that tank or ~1mpg equivalent for the 1/3rd left
    driving on the freeway exclusively with A/C on for the most part it does not appear to be sucking more fuel than normal so idk!


    it may be a perceived 'loss of power' with just the fan (or whatever) roaring more than usually does between gear shifts with no A/C in operation, having just been turned off
     
    Last edited: Jul 2, 2020
  14. Jul 2, 2020 at 2:18 PM
    #14
    Wyoming09

    Wyoming09 Well-Known Member

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    Like I said I really don`t notice a difference .

    Then a $100.00 in gas a day is common before prices came down
     
    GQ7227[OP] likes this.
  15. Jul 5, 2020 at 8:34 PM
    #15
    1997tacomav6

    1997tacomav6 V6 5sp,RegCab,TVS1320 Supercharger,Haltech, 800k

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    Your truck is pretty low miles for a compressor to go out,

    My compressor went out at around 400,000
     
    OLDHMECH61, cruiserguy and GQ7227[OP] like this.
  16. Jul 6, 2020 at 4:52 AM
    #16
    GQ7227

    GQ7227 [OP] mw survivor

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    309km east of Hazard ...the good life
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    '97 black SR5 0g ~ MT @ 176k ...
    black woolWax, green IFC, borlaCB, custom Line-X PC drums, skid, nuts, hooks, 1/4 silver frame...
    something just seems fishy and off!
     
  17. Jul 7, 2020 at 4:32 PM
    #17
    GQ7227

    GQ7227 [OP] mw survivor

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    309km east of Hazard ...the good life
    Vehicle:
    '97 black SR5 0g ~ MT @ 176k ...
    black woolWax, green IFC, borlaCB, custom Line-X PC drums, skid, nuts, hooks, 1/4 silver frame...
    Ok had the same issues again today after many long miles with AC on it lost its get up and go from a stop after turning ac switch off!

    Got back and while engine running checked ac clutch and was not moving

    Turned engine off and had the resistance in the fan like noted

    What else to check next
    What might be causing the fan road and sluggish feel?
     
  18. Jul 7, 2020 at 5:00 PM
    #18
    1997tacomav6

    1997tacomav6 V6 5sp,RegCab,TVS1320 Supercharger,Haltech, 800k

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    If your fan clutch goes out and sounds like a lawn mower the engine will run with less power
     
  19. Jul 7, 2020 at 5:18 PM
    #19
    GQ7227

    GQ7227 [OP] mw survivor

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    309km east of Hazard ...the good life
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    '97 black SR5 0g ~ MT @ 176k ...
    black woolWax, green IFC, borlaCB, custom Line-X PC drums, skid, nuts, hooks, 1/4 silver frame...
    should it not have so much resistance when hot, it was turning by hand with a little effort

    are there bearings in there?
     
  20. Jul 7, 2020 at 6:49 PM
    #20
    1997tacomav6

    1997tacomav6 V6 5sp,RegCab,TVS1320 Supercharger,Haltech, 800k

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    V6 5sp,RegCab,TVS1320 Supercharger, 56mm pulley, methanol injected Haltech ECU, AC Tvs1320 supercharger,(MUST DO) every 125,000- 150,000 needs rebuild Projector headlights HID 5 speed manual Amsoil for all drive train Smaller 56mm custom pulley, (MUST DO) 2004 DESNO fuel injectors, zero ping ping, 2004 side door mirrors Dick Cepek Rims, Michelin tires LTX, ATM Pathfinders Dynopro ATM ( that last 100,000 miles) Now running Dynopro ATM mud and snow tires KN cold air intake Cat back dual exhaust with ss exhaust tip, Raised exhaust tail pipe to 2" below body line Optima*dry cell battery,red top Alpine sirius radio, 200 watt amp, focal is165 split door pod speakers Focal door speakers Subwoffer behind seat Viper alarm, Electric Locks Dark tinted windows, bucket seats corbeau lg1 Tacoma Rubber floor mats TRD fender extenders, Bilstien shocks, King shocks JBA UCA trailer iv hitch, electric brake control, Drilled slotted brakes, High carbon steel (MUST DO) EBS green stuff 7000 series pads(MUST DO) TRD engine oil cap TRD stick shift, Marlin crawl shift kit. Rear sliding window 2002 4Runner functional hood scoop cut into Tacoma hood, 4Runner dual overhead map light Gentex Auto dim + Compass + Temp, garage,rearview mirror Snow Methonal kit stage 2 Custom 3 core aluminum radiator Linex bed liner Haltech stand alone ECU, Intake supercharger gauge. Stainless steel brake lines, Custom leather wrapped steering wheel, Haltech stand-alone ECU,
    There is special fluid in there and a small thermostat coil that opens and closes.
    When it’s hot out the clutch fan will lock to make the fan suck more air.

    Something when these clutch fans go out they just spin and do not engage and other
    times they lock up sounding like a lawn mover all the time
     

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