Specific Gen 2 33's question

I need to know exactly what to do to fit 33's with no rub at full stuff.
2015 TRD OR, 2.5" front and rear (front is my concern) lift using Bilstein 6112 and 5160's.
I am running 16" method race wheels, Grid.
I did a BMC but have not touched the pinch weld yet.
I am hoping to fit 285's in there with no rub off road.
Also, this is my first post. I checked around to see if this was a repost, but from what I could find no one has been as specific as me in their question and I'm really trying to avoid all of the different opinions about lifts, spacers, etc. I'm hoping to find someone with experience in exactly what I'm trying to do here. Thanks in advance!

 

The reason you can’t find a specific answer to this question is that there isn’t a blanket statement that will cover every possible difference is setups or specific trucks. You’ll most likely need some plastic trimming in addition to flattening the pinch weld but there are so many things that come into play where that’s the best answer you’re going to get. Things like alignment numbers, wheel offset, specific suspension components (including shocks, springs and bump stops), and factory tolerance variables to your specific truck will all come into play for what you will rub and to what extent.
The best thing you can do is flex the suspension once you have the tires mounted and see for yourself what touches where. Not many people have the patience to do that.

good luck.

 

This ^^^^

 

All of this.

Now is the time to experiment if you’re currently not working. You will not know until you try it. You’re on the right track honestly. Just flatten the pinch weld ahead of time. That’s what I did and I didn’t trim the plastics until the following day once I knew exactly where the tires were rubbing

 

Thanks guys! So... Should I just go ahead and delete this post then? haha

 

Nah man you can keep the thread active because it may help someone in the future providing they search lol

 

They’ll probably start another thread because we still didn’t answer the question.

 

Lol! But you did and he understood. The future inquirers may not like your answer because they just want to hear a “yes” lol

 

I’ll draw a diagram next time I do a CMC and sell the templates to the next person that asks. It can be vinyl stickers you place on the truck and plastic you can just trace and cut out.

We might be on to something.

 

Or a reactive sticker you place in the wheel well that shows bright orange wherever you rub. We are going to makes millions...

 

I went 285/75r16 on my 09 double cab 4x. It was rubbing slightly - I did the cab mount chop. The project looks more intimidating than it is, really not that big of a deal. I bought the patch pieces online, was just easier to do that and use them as a pattern for where to cut. Some welding required but hey I managed it with a 110v mig welder and flux core. Zero rubbing now!
That said - your UCAs could also play a big role as to whether or not you need to chop. Aftermarket UCAs will let you max out the caster (I think thats the term - move the wheel closest to the front of the truck) and that will get it furthest from the rubbing zone. More variables to think about I know. I recommend just doing the chop and as others mentioned flattening the pinch weld down. You'll never worry about it again!

 

Sounds like the Shoot N C targets would be good! It's a bright colored target covered in black scratch off stuff, so when you shoot it, the black reveals the bright color underneath. They're usually adhesive backed too

 

I got away with moving the caster up with Stock UCA's, with a stock bumper you will have to trim the fenderwells alot to eliminate that rubbing in the front but i dont rub the cab mount.

 

@Island Cruiser

Mark Appleyard was the shit!

 

Duuuude his buttery style and hilarious laugh! That gif brought me back when I would trip out at that unexpected hippyish jump at the end of the line lol. I still got a few VHS’ and DVD’s Hahaha

 

yep, totally agree.

Flips videos were really in that sort of pinnacle of skating I think. Everything was so stylish and refreshing back then. Now, all the up and comers are almost robotic with everything being stomped bolts. Oh, well

 

You will most likely rub when Offroad just from flexing the suspension more than when on the road.

I have 2.5 up front with 255/80r17 (skinny 33) and I still rub at certain angles while turning Offroad. A CMC should fix my rubbing

 

If you're planning on running 285/75/16 tires you would want the wheels to be around 16x8 with 0 offset (4.5" backspacing). Remove the mud flaps, trim the flares, beat in the pinch weld, run some SPC UCA's at position D or E to push the tire forward and then you might still need to do the cmc. No guarantees since every truck is different (and tires all measure out differently between brands) but that might be a good starting point. I'm not sure if 2.5" of lift will be enough or if you will need 3", but when my truck had that combination (3" lift but no cmc) I had no rubbing with daily driving. I never got it offroad with that combo so I can't verify no rub with it stuffed. I'm running 305/65/17 now and I get a little rub on the cmc at full lock but that's wider tires/rims with different offset.

Here's the truck with the 285/75/16 with 16x8 0 offset wheels, 3" lift.

 

From what I understand, skinny tires usually reduce the severity of rubbing issues. That's why you can generally whack 255/75R17s (skinny 32s) on a stock truck with minimal drama.

It still cracks me up that 255-width tires are considered "skinny." Thinner than the stock 265s, sure, at 10" wide vs. 10.4". 255s are what my 2004 F150 came with stock, so it isn't like you're rolling on 8-9" wide pizza cutters.

 

Hell yeah, and Zero was my favorite at the time too. It was straight raw and gnar skating in that era. And I agree about today’s skating. It’s all about “steez” while wearing condom beanies lol. I’ll admit how crazy it’s excelled but only a few skaters have the heart and passion and it shows