So you wanna put big tires on your 2.7 powered truck

On paper they're pretty much the same I just think they're newer so no one has done anything with a swap into a truggy or older Yota. That's all

 

Thoughts on a light vs heavy flywheel?

 

On my 4.0 it lugged it down pretty hard off idle. I wouldn't recommend one in my personal opinion. I'm sure it has its uses though.

 

Interesting. That’s like the opposite of what’s it’s supposed to do.

 

May also be because the supercharger also lugs it down bit as well. Ended up going back to stock weight and it feels better all around imo

 

My friend didn't have larger tires, but did have a lot of weight in the bed, fur work. Clutch upgrade, found that he already had the heavy flywheel. Used truck. He had purchased the lightweight flywheel. Swapped it together. Instantly said it was easier to take off from a stop.

 

I agree with this. Always wished first was lower. I'd take that 156 and run.

Side note: second to third shift has always seemed weird to me. All the other shifts are easy to get smooth at any rpm, but second to third has a wonky shift for me somewhere around 1800 2300 rpm.

 

Why do you think that is? Maybe the ratio gap between 2nd - 3rd is too big?

 

Joining the dirty vibes club soon myself! Have 315/75 r16 Kanati Mud Hogs sitting in the garage. Already geared 4.88, LCE Pro clutch, SPC UCAs, and Spidertrax 1.25" spacers. Plan to run them on stock steelies, not the spares, provided they fit well over the brakes. I did some wheel measurements last night and stock steels are same spec as the SR Baja option wheels I've got too.

I'll need to CMC and all the other cutting and hammering too. Got a snorkel in the living room, just need to get er did!

Any tips, suggestions, or other words of wisdom?

 

I'm not a gearhead so I wouldn't venture to say it's too big. When you let off the throttle and push the clutch in there's a slight hang in the engine rpms and it just works weird for me in the 2-3 shift at a certain rpm. High rpms like accelerating for the highway or steady, slow or fast, acceleration are no problem.

In city traffic where you've been accelerating quickly, because everyone's a rabbit in the city, but then due to traffic you stop accelerating at twenty so you push the clutch in to shift to third, but delay letting the clutch out a second to waste off some off some forward momentum, thats when it hits me. Not all the time in that scenario, but almost always that type of scenario.

It's probably more my style of driving. If any of that makes sense. And not to derail a thread.

I've always wanted my first year to be lower.

 

THATS A REALLY GOOD DEAL MAN ID JUMP ON THAT!

 

Ah yes. Rev hang. I think that's just a product of having an electronic throttle body.

This video explains it pretty well:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mm6SSeLivqE

 

315 on stock 7" wide wheels is really pushing it. There will be a lot of bulge which increases the chances of popping the bead. I think you would be safer with 8" wheels at least.

 

Small chance I'll get 8" wheels, but not high. New wheels just aren't in the cards, but 4 used for $100 is sore peter.

 

Get some rubber trim to put on your cut front fenders it'll save your fingers later, since the plastic clips will probably break anyways drill a small pilot hole next to the flare clip hole and use zip ties, I found this works best. When you do your snorkel remember the template is mostly a guide, measure like 10times. When you smash the fire wall make sure to reseal the fire wall

 

I'll definitely get trim for the fenders, that's a must!
I might not even put the flares back on, I like the bondo hole filler look using the plastic clips for them, though. Haven't committed either direction.
The snorkel I got was super cheap ~$80 USD from ebay, shipped! It's the 167 snorkel. Either way, the template leaves a lot to be desired and I know what you and others mean by measuring 1,000x over.
Looking at a seam sealer for the pinch and firewall.

 

OP is right about 3rd gen manuals regearing on the cheap.

my 4 cyl manual came with 3.90s and it was slow from the beginning but this made it much better

I got some 4.30 from a 3rd v6manual gen for 200 bucks. Had an arb locker put in at the same time as the gears.

running 265/75s and truck drives way better than stock. Running about 2-300 RPM higher at 70mph.

 

I have a lightweight flywheel on my 2.7 with 295/70/17s and I love it. Sure it's a little more difficult to get going on steep hills, but if you can drive a standard, you'll get used to it in no time. The one thing I did notice is that revs drop more quickly between shifts, so you need to be moving when you shift if you're running a stock shifter. I have a hurst/core shifter in mine and it's great. When I was running the stock shifter with the lightweight flywheel though, I'd really have to move to shift and rev match

 

Thanks for the input. Do you happen to have your stock shifter for sale?

 

I do have one for a r155 I could sell. I think the r155f is different though. I can send some pics later today of what I've got