Vagabond Drifter Camper Buildout and Mods

I've thought about the same things. I never really considered the bumper as I carry bikes a lot. I almost preordered the Ultraswing but decided against it because of your concerns about opening it everytime I need to get into the back and run close to stock tire size so I'm fine with the underbed placement of the spare.

What I settled on was a stand alone hitch swing. I have the yakima backswing but the new kuat pivot v2 would be a better option I think. It has a longer swing arm and opens to 120*. The benefit of the swing out is it can stay on the truck full time as it is mostly out of the way. It doesn't block backup camera or license plate and when the tailgate is down it is completely out of the way.

I'm currently working on a compact rack to carry a few items on the back, possibly a fold up table. The goal is to keep things as tight as possible against the truck. I started with a hitch extender so I can still carry a bike rack behind the cargo rack. You have to be mindful of weight and length as it can make for a pretty poor departure angle. But, you can choose to remove the cargo rack and just run a bike rack or both.

I'm not sure if it's going to work like a want but it's a fun project to solve a problem that doesn't really exist

Aluminum tabs will eventually be welded steel. 2x4 and plywood will be replaced by steel tube and aluminum extrusion:

 

I’d venture to say the RIGd and comparable swing arms only advantage over a full bumper would be the ability to remove it (which you honestly could do with a proper swingout without much additional effort). A rear bumper is not much heavier (possibly even lighter) than the stock bumper/hitch and the swingout may be even lighter than the RIGd arm. Easier to open, more stability, flusher fitment, ability to carry fuel or other items.

 

I noticed that weird off-set. Luckily I have the 1 Up bike rack and both sides are adjustable so you can leave the left side aligned with the vehicle then tighten on the right. I'm hoping that way it won't add extra width on the left but unsure on that.

 

I personally wished someone would build a hybrid high clearance with just a tire carrier. Or dual to balance out the rear weight.. I do notice having it open at camp does stress out the passenger rear side.

 

My initial thought was "doesn't BAMF meet these desires?". Then I re-read and you said HYBRID.
The BAMF weighs between "250lbs to 400lbs depending on options"

2nd Gen: https://bayareametalfab.3dcartstore...earance-Rear-Bumper-Dual-Swing-out_p_149.html
3rd Gen: https://bayareametalfab.3dcartstore...arance-Rear-Bumper-Dual-Swing-out-_p_151.html

 

My CBI rear bumper with a swingout is right around 350lbs. Came on two pallets and the freight guy was not happy when he was unloading it in my driveway.

 

@JasonLee Is it stupid or do you just not understand it? The offset swinging is to allow you to access your hatch or tailgate without the bikes or rack contacting the vehicle ( long or short wheelbase). In most cases ( depending on wheelbase) The wheels of the bike are well inside the mirrors. If this poses an issue for the end-user, they can simply adjust the tray on the bike rack to suit their specific needs. Maybe this product just isn't for you. That's okay!

As for listening to you or scrubbing the internet of photos of bike racks mounted to it, Nah. Installing a bike rack with bikes on it blocks the visibility of the product entirely. People start thinking the bike rack is something we make or is included.

Here are some photos for ya bud.

On my Tacoma with a 1up (nonadjustable trays) with 170mm travel enduro and a 150mm Stumpjumper.




On my Ram 2500 bike tray centered.


Tundra with the Mega-Fit ( 4" wider) Bike tray in the center location.

 

your a good dude, hope the bottle made it to RIGD safe.

 

these guys might have something

https://warfabarmor.com/collections/bumpers

 

Tweaked my frame on my last truck from a HC single swing. Refuse to buy a single swing ever again.

 

I bet he understands it now haha

 

Nope, I understood the "design" decision before when I posted the YouTube video earlier. I still disagree with the design for my uses, but that just means I won't be a customer. Others can do what they want with my opinion.

Back to the Drifter Buildout & mods!

 

Yeah, I don't really understand why this is a big deal for you.

It makes sense if you have slide outs on the passenger side so you can run a larger frame bike and still keep it centered. I mean the other option is a vertically mounted bike but then it'd just stick out toward the back even more.

 

no bueno. @d.shaw not a fan of the swing out portion..the locking mechanism and it doesn’t seem to have enough supports.. I’ve seen similar designs offroad bounce into the tailgates

 

So, back to Drifter stuff.

I got 2x 92” pieces of L-track from Fedex today. I think the delivery driver doesn’t like me very much.Today she said “I have no idea what random stuff you order, but at least this one I didn’t need my dolly like that last 5 boxes.” I sensed the anger...

Anyways, I plan on cutting these into 70-72” sections (forgot the exact measurement) and installing them on the roof. I’ll design crossbars and mounts once the L-track is on to get proper height. Pretty much replicating the Frontrunner bars.

Does anyone happen to know the length bolts Vagabond uses going through the L-track on the roof? @tyfoon11 I assume it’s the same as what you guys use for the side of the camper (If so, I have your message with the proper bolts). Trying to avoid doing multiple hardware store trips. I got the rest of the install down, but if someone who has factory L-track wants to measure the distance between camper edge and L-track for me, that’d be awesome.

Also curious how the roof got scratched

 

My L tracks aren't factory, but this was my McMaster-Carr hardware order.

91831A029 18-8 Stainless Steel Nylon-Insert Locknut, 1/4"-20 Thread Size, 1 pack of 50

92210A540 18-8 Stainless Steel Hex Drive Flat Head Screw, 1/4"-20 Thread Size, 3/4" Long, 1 pack of 50

92141A029 18-8 Stainless Steel Washer for 1/4" Screw Size, 0.281" ID, 0.625" OD, 1 pack of 100

Also, I put mine as close to the outside edge as possible so that I could push them as far forward as possible without hanging over the crease towards the front.

 

Thank you so much brother! I appreciate you getting me the sizes and part numbers.

I’m limited on how far forward I can go without moving my solar panel onto the L-Track and off the mounts they’re on currently. I’ve been deciding if it’s worth my removing the mounts, but then I’m just left with empty holes that aren’t in the ideal spot to be covered by the L-track.

I’ll end up cutting them right before the crease on the rear. Should leave me with a solid 72” of track still, which is enough spacing for my boards.

 

Makes sense. If you're already happy with how your panels are mounted, why change it.
Then you've got some extra track leftover to put somewhere else if you want too.

The reason I did mine the way I did was because it gave me just barely enough room to configure it like this (from front to rear):

Crossbar
2 panels side by side
Crossbar
1 panel (cross-ways)
Fan Deflector
Fan
Crossbar

 

Drifter + Roof Rack

Can anyone with a 3rd gen DCLB share the length from the top of the windshield to the front of the Drifter?

I’d like to share it with the good people at Sherpa Equipment after seeing their prototype on @soloartist 2nd gen DCSB.

Stoked to see more options coming to market!!

Thanks.

 

Just got back from a 10 day trip in which we used the OVS awning almost every day. It may not be much faster than an ARB, but it's much easier.