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Tacoma Fan Coupling Clutch issue ? Loss of engine pep with AC sometimes

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by GQ7227, Jun 28, 2020.

  1. Jul 9, 2020 at 8:34 AM
    #41
    OLDHMECH61

    OLDHMECH61 Well-Known Member

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    Andy
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    No this check wont work for viscous type fan clutch, again apologies if I led You astray, but do follow advice from parkvisiter and watch timmy video.
    Andy
     
    GQ7227[QUOTED][OP] likes this.
  2. Jul 9, 2020 at 8:36 AM
    #42
    GQ7227

    GQ7227 [OP] mw survivor

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    309km east of Hazard ...the good life
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    black woolWax, green IFC, borlaCB, custom Line-X PC drums, skid, nuts, hooks, 1/4 silver frame...
    thats ok lol
    involved auto mechanics is a learning curve for me
     
    jammer and OLDHMECH61[QUOTED] like this.
  3. Jul 9, 2020 at 9:52 AM
    #43
    Parkvisitor

    Parkvisitor Do you know midnight?

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    Jay,
    There’s a small bi-metal coil on the front of the clutch that senses the temperature and controls the fan clutch. Sometimes it breaks or gets rusted in place. It’s possible to add or replace the clutch fluid.
    https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=zjhKr5usjaA
     
    jammer and GQ7227[OP] like this.
  4. Jul 9, 2020 at 9:56 AM
    #44
    GQ7227

    GQ7227 [OP] mw survivor

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    309km east of Hazard ...the good life
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    '97 black SR5 0g ~ MT @ 176k ...
    black woolWax, green IFC, borlaCB, custom Line-X PC drums, skid, nuts, hooks, 1/4 silver frame...
    i was checking if i had the green snout, which it does,
    also some tarnished look (roadspray from underneath most likely idk) on the green in there so that weathering maybe an issue, all those parts have only been removed once
     
  5. Jul 9, 2020 at 10:53 AM
    #45
    Parkvisitor

    Parkvisitor Do you know midnight?

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    That tarnished stuff could be the clutch fluid that leaked out
     
    GQ7227[QUOTED][OP] likes this.
  6. Jul 9, 2020 at 11:57 AM
    #46
    twblanset

    twblanset Well-Known Member

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    If your fan clutch is shot and it is making the roaring sound (which means it's locked up), you should be able to check it by pulling over when it's making the sound, turning off the engine, and trying to move it by hand. If you can't move it, it's failed.
     
    slander, GQ7227[OP] and cruiserguy like this.
  7. Jul 9, 2020 at 1:14 PM
    #47
    GQ7227

    GQ7227 [OP] mw survivor

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    309km east of Hazard ...the good life
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    '97 black SR5 0g ~ MT @ 176k ...
    black woolWax, green IFC, borlaCB, custom Line-X PC drums, skid, nuts, hooks, 1/4 silver frame...
    i will try that!

    it does not sound 'loud' at idle just in the lower gears it gets louder much sooner than i think it ought to and sometimes it does not
     
  8. Jul 9, 2020 at 1:15 PM
    #48
    GQ7227

    GQ7227 [OP] mw survivor

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    309km east of Hazard ...the good life
    Vehicle:
    '97 black SR5 0g ~ MT @ 176k ...
    black woolWax, green IFC, borlaCB, custom Line-X PC drums, skid, nuts, hooks, 1/4 silver frame...
    also there is an odd audible ticking sound at 2.1k RPMs usually, sometimes been louder

    might this be the culprit of that?!
     
  9. Jul 10, 2020 at 8:54 AM
    #49
    twblanset

    twblanset Well-Known Member

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    That's what a bad fan clutch will sound like. It screams when you accelerate. The clutch acts as a kind of lag on the fan to reduce sound when accelerating. You can also remove the fan and go for a drive. Just keep a close eye on your temp gauge. Don't go far and don't do stop and go traffic. Take the fan with you and reinstall after your engine heats up.
     
    GQ7227[QUOTED][OP] likes this.
  10. Jul 11, 2020 at 3:41 PM
    #50
    slander

    slander Honorary Crawl Boi

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    For future searchings sake, I looked into replacing the fluid and found it to be A) a huge PITA to get it out B) that fluid is crazy expensive and kind of hard to find C) theres no guarentee it will work. I ended up just buying a new fan clutch and all my problems were solved. I had the opposite of the OPs problem where mine would over heat in traffic and while wheeling and the AC would get hot in a few mins and then the motor would over heat. Fan clutch fixed evreything.
     
    Wyoming09, jammer and GQ7227[OP] like this.
  11. Jul 11, 2020 at 6:35 PM
    #51
    GQ7227

    GQ7227 [OP] mw survivor

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    309km east of Hazard ...the good life
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    '97 black SR5 0g ~ MT @ 176k ...
    black woolWax, green IFC, borlaCB, custom Line-X PC drums, skid, nuts, hooks, 1/4 silver frame...
    I do not want to be stranded in nowhere TX or PA
    1000s miles away from base!
     
  12. Jul 11, 2020 at 11:41 PM
    #52
    slander

    slander Honorary Crawl Boi

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    Then put a new fan clutch in it. They are really easy to change.
     
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  13. Jul 12, 2020 at 12:56 AM
    #53
    Wyoming09

    Wyoming09 Well-Known Member

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    Since my days of High Horse power engines and going as fast as possible in a straight line are long past this slipped my mind.

    Another thing we all sort of forgot humid hot air as the ambient temperatures increase is not nearly as dense as cool dry air enough to notice a lack in performance .

    I can notice that much more then the loss from the AC compressor or fan clutch.

    100 degrees and 100% humidity plus the other assorted factors I can see that one might feel the turtle as passing you by.

    For peace of mind change the fan clutch if it turns out the new one acts the same you have a extra one.
     
  14. Jul 12, 2020 at 1:08 AM
    #54
    Wyoming09

    Wyoming09 Well-Known Member

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    I gotta agree about rebuilding unless maybe to say I did this where time and expense do not matter and you get way more invested then just buying a new one .

    Most Fan clutch failures are of the no longer lock up type and things over heat I have never come across the always locked up type anything is possible

    Even at $125.00 from Toyota it is not expensive.
     
    cruiserguy likes this.
  15. Jul 12, 2020 at 1:38 AM
    #55
    mechanicjon

    mechanicjon They call me "Jonny Stubs"

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    I've rebuilt/changed the fluid in my fan clutch. Mainly for the reason of Phoenix 115 degree temps. At an idle the A/C performance is terrible. Draining the all fluid out and measuring the amount removed is critical. The silicone fluid is the same stuff used in rc car differentials. Easily purchased from Amazon. Getting the correct viscous weight is a guess. You just have to compare what you drained to what you purchased. I mixed them to get a slightly thicker fluid. Then refilled with the correct amount drained. A/C works great at an idle. No noticable roar like the fluid is to thick. But it's trial and error. I was happy with my first try at thicking the fluid.
     
    cruiserguy, GQ7227[OP] and Wyoming09 like this.
  16. Jul 12, 2020 at 1:41 AM
    #56
    mechanicjon

    mechanicjon They call me "Jonny Stubs"

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  17. Jul 12, 2020 at 1:45 AM
    #57
    mechanicjon

    mechanicjon They call me "Jonny Stubs"

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  18. Jul 12, 2020 at 6:52 AM
    #58
    Parkvisitor

    Parkvisitor Do you know midnight?

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    yea Jay, get of the couch!!!
     
  19. Jul 12, 2020 at 7:04 AM
    #59
    GQ7227

    GQ7227 [OP] mw survivor

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    309km east of Hazard ...the good life
    Vehicle:
    '97 black SR5 0g ~ MT @ 176k ...
    black woolWax, green IFC, borlaCB, custom Line-X PC drums, skid, nuts, hooks, 1/4 silver frame...
    well this could possibly explain some 'oddity' i have noticed for a few years now

    situation: i stop for coffee in the morning (any time of the year AC off) after engines warmed up, restart the truck and head out only to find i have more power or less drag now than driving to the coffee shop early in the day
     
    Last edited: Jul 19, 2020
  20. Jul 12, 2020 at 7:31 AM
    #60
    GQ7227

    GQ7227 [OP] mw survivor

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    309km east of Hazard ...the good life
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    '97 black SR5 0g ~ MT @ 176k ...
    black woolWax, green IFC, borlaCB, custom Line-X PC drums, skid, nuts, hooks, 1/4 silver frame...

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