Bad Vibrations after Carrier Bearing and 3 ujoints replacement? Should I go 1 piece

Just like the title states, I have a 2011 DCLB 4x4 - 116k miles
BTW I do have a 2.75 lift in front (5100's w887 and AAL in the rear) ECGS was also completed during driveshaft maintenance.

@Speed Freek recently helped me out and replaced my CB since it was pretty bad. We went ahead and replaced 3 of the ujoints from the Trans to the rear shaft as well.

However I'm getting some pretty bad vibrations between 50-70mph after the replacement and I'm wondering if it could relate to driveshaft needing balance or axle shims needed or the pinon angle is wrong? I had some minor vibs before the installation but it definitely got worst after the replacement.

3 of the DANA

$34 Spicer 5-1330-1X U-Joint Kit

Spicer 513301X - Ujoints
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=6130827&cc=1447055&jsn=8

1 of the DANA Spicer 5002007 - Carrier Bearing
https://www.ebay.com/itm/DANA-Spicer-Drive-Shaft-Center-Support-Bearing-Assembly-for-09-15-Toyota-Tacoma/233401698226?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649

I've been reading about Tom Woods 1 piece driveshaft, what is everyone opinions on those? Pro/Cons? Double Cardan joints?

I'm just thinking to myself, why did i even mess around with the DS...... that money i spent to repair it could've went to the TW one piece?

Everything was reinstalled correctly and the markings was followed. Any Ideas?

 

Do the front and rear yokes line up?

 

I want to say yes but I'm a complete noob when it comes to DS. Hopefully the pictures help verify?

We also only removed the driveshaft from the transfer case to the rear axle. Didn't touch the front one. If that helps any.

 

If you're looking from the back of the truck, eyes even with the driveshaft, are all of those zerk fittings at the roughly 7 o'clock position?

 

Yeah it does. Picture below with the red markings to help.

Are you referring to the frontend DS as well?

 

Based off of that, it certainly seems to me that the carrier isn't properly aligned. Looks like the prep work was done well. Only other concern is that those U-Joints appear to be non-OEM and could be part of the problem. I would say if a realign of the carrier is fruitless, remove and replace the U-Joints with Genuine Toyota P/N 04371-04030.

 

I went with what was recommended on TW forum after searching a bit. It was OEM:

3 of the DANA

$34 Spicer 513301X Spicer 5-1330-1X U-Joint Kit

Spicer 513301X - Ujoints

1 of the DANA Spicer 5002007 - Carrier Bearing

 

OEM is different from Toyota branded. I did a big writeup about it, but short story is that just because you may have purchased a part from the OEM doesn't mean you got the same part. Toyota has quality control standards above and beyond what a manufacturer self-imposes. Those are listed as an "OE replacement," not as Toyota Genuine or even OEM.

 

So realistically it could be that the CB is not aligned properly or it's not the correct CB?

https://parts.tustintoyota.com/p/To...xXWaOkha9BzvdE0GVyhQo5JxoDeL1y5BoCM_EQAvD_BwE

$175 seems kinda steep for OEM in my opinion. Thoughts on just using that money for a Tom Woods 1 piece and just get rid of the carrier bearing completely?

 

Correct. A lot of people like one piece, but they come with their own fair share of problems depending on how long you intend to own the truck. The two piece and carrier bearing has a purpose. It unloads the transfer shaft and also provides greater ground clearance. Do you want those forces going into a $200 sacrificial part or into the transfer case (replacement of genuine Toyota case alone costs over $3,472)? My two cents...

 

Toyota should be ashamed to charge as much as they do for ujoints.

 

Don’t believe Tom woods makes or will make a one piece for the dclb.

 

have you measured the angles and tried to adjust the CB? in my case i had startup shudder and basically went through a bunch of trial and error with the drive angles -- flipping the CB, dropping the CB, etc. so i'd first measure the angles and post them and i bet you'll get some recommendations -- and once measured, see if you can get the 2 shafts between 0 and 1 degree by shimming the CB with some washers. once you get it, you could get more durable spacers in there. this post has a good diagram to use as a guide: https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...vibration-for-free.153050/page-2#post-3141741

 

You're right they don't. My DCLB from transfer to differential is 80.5 inches and the maximum length they can do is 72-75 inch per their website/phone call.

What now......

 

The CB is mounted correctly? I believe there is a front and back if I remember correctly.

 

Umm.... Yeah... I used the same parts - Dana U-Joints and Spicer CB and I have no issues.

 

Also, unless you cut or remove the carrier bearing cross member, I'd be concerned with the TW driveshaft hitting that member if loaded up and hitting bumps. I'd stick with a two piece whether OEM or aftermarket.

 

I just went underneath the vehicle again and removed the 14mm bolts that hold the carrier bearing.

In my original photos above the carrier bearing "arrows" is on top of the DS.

I flipped it 180 and now the arrows are pointing towards the transfer case.

Can someone send a picture of how your carrier bearing looks? Wanted to see if this 180 flip is the right way or not.

 

I don't have a degree angle tool on hand but I will definitely try this out. (Any recommendation on a tool? I have a harbor freight nearby that i can pick one up. I haven't tried Geometry in 12 years LOL

 

Correct. The arrows should be visible and pointing to the front of the truck.