Brake issue... full stop

Hey Ya'll,

I have done a fair bit of reading through threads and my issue is discussed elsewhere on the site. That said, I am looking for some guidance so i don't have to continue to deal with this issue.

1. Truck has 41,000 miles. 2017 DCLB. Minimal towing.
2. For the last 10,000-15,000 miles there is a very heavy shuddering braking at highway speeds only. Driving around town is fine. I have been ignoring/dealing with it because I don't do a ton of highway driving.
3. The shake occurs in the steering wheel and not the pedal.
4. The dealership have done the standard rotation for the tires over the life of the vehicle but its time for some new tires. They arn't bald but are scoring 2's and 3's on the gauge.
5. Light braking has started a light squeal in the last 100 miles.


I have only panic braked in the truck once from 80 to 0. I did use to drive a BMW before the Tacoma and several muscle cars (all sticks) so I probably have terrible braking habits especially for a truck but I wouldn't say that I am driving the truck anywhere near like the cars and I don't *THINK* I am abusing the brakes.

Some threads say this is 100% rotor warp. Some threads say people don't understand warping and it's actually rotor runout (seems reasonable as I am not tracking the thing). Also see where people say that its caused especially that early on in the lifespan by improper torque on wheels which is why I included 4.

The resolution for all is replace rotors but that's not something I wan't to be doing every 30k miles especially when i see people on here easily getting over 100k on original parts.

So in addition to pad and rotor combo recommendations, what can I do to avoid this in the future? I am currently looking at these : https://www.carid.com/2016-toyota-tacoma-brakes/ebc-stage-2-sport-brake-kit-1938406736.html?parentsubmodel[0]=SUBMODEL|TRD+Off-Road

Have seen "bremo blanks" recommended and TRD ceramic pads but could use some links.

Any help appreciated.

 

This, all day long.

I learned about it 25yrs ago and it is what made me a believer in torque wrenches. Once you have bedded in a warp from uneven torque, there is no fixing it. But unlike your worry, once you swap rotors and torque consistently, you will not have to replace parts 'every 30k.' Even if you let a shop do tire / wheel / brake work, all you need to do is loosen and properly torque the lugs when you get home.

A $20 torque wrench from Harbor Freight is all that you need. 83ft-lb on the lugs.

I have been doing this and have only replaced one set of rotors since. That was due to wear and nothing else.


Otherwise, the Taco is no different than a car. Use the brakes as you normally would.

 

Replace pads and have the rotors machined ......

 

Brake pads are hung up on the pins and or caliper that’s shit should slide freely with little drag.

 

EBC slotted and drilled rotors with the stock toyota ceramic pads were the ticket on my 2001 tundra. Never changed the pads in over 60k miles...they still looked pretty good.

 

Warped rotor. Just replace the rotors and pads, use torgue wrench. Cavemen on here do it every day.

 

This.

Outside chance theres a bushing/ bearing issue...but a high speed shimmy is usually a rotor.
Not sure on the tacoma because I havent owned one for long, but jeeps factory rotors are literally shit pot metal. I used to replace them within the first 30k.

 

Totally agree. If a mechanic removes my wheels I always torque them myself when I get home. RARELY are they torqued evenly or to spec.

 

Exactly. Even if they use torque sticks, there's a chance of over-torquing one. I am able to ensure each rotates before hitting the torque value.

 

Everything here is good. Rotors worn or warped funny cause problems. However, I've had similar issues in the past mostly due to worn tires. They just don't feel good braking from highway speeds. If it's time, get that done .

 

I'm with @tonered. First thing I did when I got the truck home was loosen and torque the wheels.

Granted this was on another vehicle, but the dealership that did my rotations never used a torque wrench as the final torque. 4 out of 5 lugs were extremely loose. "Trust but verify".

And yeah, your rotors are toast.

 

Since no one else yet mentioned it, that "light brake squealing in the last 100 miles" is your pad wear marker, so when you do the rotors, get new pads too.

 

I would replace the rotors and not machine them. They are usually relatively inexpensive.

 

thanks for sufficient info to begin with .................

yet 1 ? ..................have there been prev brake work done b4 ???

i think Ur rotors are warped
thats Not an indictment o blame
no less the pads may Not be compatible

no less IF prev brake work done
Im thinkin the pads are an issue ...................1 thing led to another
U have shake
uneven pad wear

often times its hard to beat OEM equiptment save for pricing as OEM in the main are ' Matched '
to achieve beter than ' average ' results
Not so much race/ track performance but general everyday usage by the masses

having raced & driven performance vehicles
i find the brakes good yet the pedal to be the softist iv Ever driven

on trails ....... dunes ......in the woods a soft pedal is good so 4 wheeling is correct
i dont think thats Ur problem unless U consistent tow
stopping distances take a beating towing

rotors
pads
matched up & I think U r good

 

EBC slotted rotors and green or yellow pads are the ticket. Been running them on my 08 for years. Did the same thing with my 08 4Runner - panic stop from 60-0 ( stopped so hard shit actually floated in the truck) totally fried the rotors.

Good luck

 

Improper tourqe or what is sometimes called rust jacking. Rust can build in between the rotor and hub face, that can change torque on the studs. I treat all that with copper antiseize. Like everyone else check the torque yourself every time after this is fixed.
There is a on car brake lathe that uses a drive hub torqued to spec in place of your wheel. It cuts the rotors true 90 degrees to the spindle. It works great, but costs as much as rotors if you install them yourself.
Always check torque and always use corrosion inhibitor where the rotor contacts the hub. Works for me.

 

Might be worth checking the calipers to make sure no pistons are sticking. Had similar symptoms from 1 piston in the right caliper sticking. Replaced with a napa reman and life is good.

 

Thanks for all the replies.

@ROAD DOG parts are all original oem still. Good info on there so thanks.

@chaotic_taco I'll check the meat on the pads when I pull em but ill be surprised if I'm hitting the wear marker already.

I guess biggest mistake was letting those pneumatic air tool loving dealer techs hit em without checking after.

Ima pickup those ebcs and green pads in my first post and keep on truckin.

 

How do I test for a sticking caliper?

Nm, Youtube explained pretty good. Ill check this as well while swapping the parts.

 

On order with ebc stage 3 from carid for $300 rotors and green pads.

Thanks again for all the help.

Also picked up a set of takeoff stock tires all 5 with < 2k miles for $200. Wanted some pizza cutters but couldnt pass that deal up. Friend upgraded to k02s.