Most reliable water pump brand?

Yeah I sourced all the parts and had the dealer quote me just labor on their "timing belt service package". Labor was 400-500ish and I spent 200 or so on parts. But they were only going to do the timing belt water pump, thermostat and belts. I threw in cam seals idler pulley and a few other random things that their package didn't have. So I got more done with just the labor than they offered because they were already in there. Great deal really.

 

Update..

I got the kit from “Aircabman” and paid a mechanic $400 to install it. Supposedly this is one of the best shop in town according to a retired mechanic friend of mine.
I also had him fix an oil leak at the same time.
I drove it for 2 days and all was well.

Then omw home last night my ac stopped blowing cold, power steering went out, and my battery light came on. The temp gauge read normal so I finished driving the 5 miles home. When I opened my hood I saw this!!

WT actual F???!!
The whole pulley had just fallen the hell off!

I talked to the mechanic about it this morning and he said he would fix it.
He’s looking for a new bolt because the old one is nowhere to be seen.

He’s damn sure going to fix this on his own dime.

The pulley is blocking the fan from turning. The engine ran smoothly all the way home and never overheated.

My question for y’all is...
What else could’ve been damaged as a result of this failure?

 

I'm sorry to hear that man.... Smh

 

If you finished driving like that? I’d check everything that spins up front. Fan, fan clutch, especially the pulleys making sure that nothing self machined itself into oblivion. Check the radiator for impact damage on the back side. Look for marks where metal on metal may have happened. Check the pulley shaft.

If you’re lucky it popped off and just stopped and nothing happened.

Looks like he missed torquing a bolt down to spec. Sorry man.

 

you were likely fine the rest of the way home because you had enough air flow through the grill to keep the engine from over heating. If you were stopped for awhile and idling or in stop and go traffic it could have gotten bad. Keep in mind too, the temp gauge on the dash starts climbing only when temps get dangerously close to critical. That's why it's good to have a separate gauge that plugs into your obdII port so you can monitor exact temps.

If the gauge didn't rise at all or only a little bit you're fine. If it were over heating you would have known when you opened the hood (boiling coolant and the like)

 

Well this is precisely why serpentine belts suck. You didn’t overheat because your water pump is on a separate pulley. (I think.) You can have this happen on the trail and you can limp home. Unless it’s the WP belt.

 

Glad to see that no one here immediately jumped to the conclusion “holy shit your engine is probably trash now”.

 

Thank you! I will definitely check all those things.

 

If/when you take it to the mechanic, take off the pulley and belt that’s affected. Check for damage. If your water pump pulley is in fact still intact. You’ll be good to go. I just checked. the WP and the Alt are on the same pulley. PS is solo. As is the AC. They all are driven off the crank pulley or the timing belt pulley.

If the AC stopped and the PS it’s likely there was some fuckery going on between the two belts. So check the belts for damage too.

 

Right!?

I’d only think it would be serious if somehow the crankshaft pulley and the timing pulley somehow got coaxed into turning at different rates. Either snapping a timing belt or slipping a tooth. But that would be very noticeable.

He should be fine barring any damage to the output shaft the pulley attaches to. Or a hole in the radiator.

 

That’s a big 10-4!
Good info! Thank you

 

You have great luck. my timing would have moved enough things would quit.

Radio cranked up and never heard the noise or heard something just never thought of it till later

This is what happens quite often reusing the old bolt lots of mechanics are unaware of this .

The 184 foot pounds of torque compared to tight seems to never work

 

So the mechanic showed up to fix everything and said I need a new harmonic balancer.

It it, of course, on his dime.
Should I demand a Toyota original harmonic balancer? Or is an aftermarket one just as good?

Should I demand a new bolt? He said he’s going to “loktite” the bolt in place.
Is that adequate?

 

Also the mechanic said I need a new harmonic balancer. The Toyota stealership quoted $600+
Can anyone help me find a new (oem only) harmonic balancer that is affordable?

 

As long as it's torqued to spec it should be ok.

If it was an OEM harmonic balancer that broke because he effed up, then you should get an OEM replacement out of it. I'm sure if you don't say anything though he'll throw a cheap aftermarket one on there

I would look up the part number on google and see what pops up, might find a good deal on one through another dealership

 

I’ve already told him the replacement has to be oem. Don’t care if it’s used in good shape. But must be Toyota original!