Kicker hideaway- final upgrade to the $250(+) 3rd gen premium upgrade (+Kicker Key 180.4 amp)

Yep I figured as much, now to get an amp and start making my wiring harness!

 

Soooo I had originally planned on getting the following 10” sub:

$280 Kicker 43TCWRT102 CompRT 10" 2-Ohm Subwoofer in Thin Profile Enclosure

Kicker 43TCWRT102.

But I’m hell bent on trying to get a 12” in that same space.

What are your thoughts on the Kicker 46TL7T122?

 

If you plan on removing your back seat, then go for it! But it ain’t fitting behind the seat lol. Even the 10” won’t fit

 

Dang it, are you sure?

For the 12 the bottom depth is 7 3/4”
For the 10 the bottom depth is 7 3/8”

measuring looks like the bottom back of the seat depth is 7 1/2” ish.

 

It’s much bigger than my compRT 12 and that thing BARELY fits. I’ve tried to fit the 10” L7T when we got one in a while back and it wasn’t even close to fitting.

And it’s not just the bottom depth you have to focus on. The top depth is very important too because the seat leans back

 

Sadness, I will just stick with the original plan of CompRT10 and a 5 channel amp.

Even the punch amp is too big!

 

So I have an interesting one:

Wired up everything this weekend, all sounds great. Only problem, when the remote bass control is plugged in, the subwoofer turns off (unit is still powered but no output). Unplug and it works fine, I just have to control the bass through the head-unit. So right now I'm just doing that, but it was pretty odd to me. Tried different aux cables and everything. Thoughts?

 

Change of plans, I was all set to get MrMarv to make me a single L7 enclosure when this refurbished CompRT 10” became available for cheap, I could not pass it up.

I ordered a RF Punch amp, just need a wiring kit and I will be in the garage sweating it out.

 

I assume that the punch amp doesn’t come with this adapter, if I already have RCA’s couldn’t I make my own?

 

You sure could.

 

this is a test set - I believe the interior shielded wire is the negative (-) while the outer stands are the positive (+)
Correct?

Update: after googlefu - I have it backwards.
The outer strand is the negative and the inner stand is the positive.
Just on these cheap test cable the inner strand is so small compared to the outer strand.

 

They’re thing because most RCA cables are made to vary very low-level audio. I personally wouldn’t use those if it was me. The RCA-to-speakerwire adapters are too cheap

 

Lol. I was actually just looking for more information on this. I have an Alpine power pack that I'm running to an lc7i, that I have previously cut the rca's end's for the line out's on the Alpine. More info please how this works out.

 

Do you think it would be better for me to just solder the wires from the line out to the rca's end if I cut the ends off, or should I resolder the line out's wires with new rca ends

 

I have a good set of RCA’s that came with the wiring kit that I can use, but I wanted to cut an freebie RCA set to what I was getting myself into.

 

I just used these for my Rockford Fosgate 8 inch powered sub. I soldered these to the wires coming out of my head unit, before my alpine power pack, and they work great for my setup. I’m not super audio savvy, so I’m not sure if you lose audio quality this way. I just wanted an easy connection using RCA cables to my sub. I’m really pleased with how easy this was and how great the little sub sounds.

 

Well RCA cables are all very thin wire, because they’re not designed or built to carry hi-level audio. So even the “good” set with your kit will still be very thin wire

 

ok noted, hopefully the amp comes with the adapter.

 

Punch Amp showed up today, confirmed it didn’t come with the high level RCA adapter.
So it will be here Sunday.

 

Finally everything came in (was shipping delayed) and started tuning this morning!

Thanks to everyone in this thread for all your help!