Show off your 3D printed parts

Not manyo mneeded for abs to be honest. Just change the nozzle to a tool steel one and run an enclosure. I took it a step further and upgraded the Bowden tube while I was in there just for good measure. A glass bed is a must have for any material types in my opinion. For adhesion, I went with bed weld. Once this stuff runs out, I'm going to go with vision miner nano polymer. That stuff doesn't let anything move.

-Pyrotaco

 

Thingiverse or stlfinder are great places to start. Even better, make your own stuff! If you aren't real proficient with cad, use tinkercad. Drag and drop and darn easy.

 

More or less. As you go larger there is more belt torque and frame flex with the smaller extrusions. IMO this is why you don't see many machines go over 8x8.

 

I think I finally have all the dimensions down and changes made. Just started the print and will find out for sure in a few days.

 

Here is a 3D printed docking guide for the spare tire crankdown rod. I have the optional lock and I seem to have lost something from the frame that guides the rod into the socket... maybe when they sprayed my frame?? So it was basically impossible to insert the crank without getting under and reaching up blindly to help it in. Anyway, this piece makes it easy.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3837183

 

This might also be useful for some of you. Hitch mounted bike racks block the factory backup cam so I designed a mount for an aftermarket backup cam (mine is an Alpine cam connected to a Pioneer head unit) that allows you to hot swap it to 3 different positions: license plate, bike rack raised, bike rack lowered. This specifically for a Kuat, but might work with other similar racks.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3836907

 

That is impressive. I've done quite a bit of work in SolidWorks and that part you have designed isn't something you bang out in a couple hours. Nice work.

What is the print time and what resolution?

 

The top half is 0.1mm. The bottom half is 0.2mm. Print time is looking like 60 hours at 250mm/s.

 

250mm/s?!???!!!!?? I’ve never gone above 80mm/s. What machine are you printing on again? Material?

 

I couldn't find a machine that met my requirements. The reliability of Chinese printers takes drastic hits when you go large. So I designed my own. Bertha is 250 lbs of cnc machined beauty.

 

That’s badass... going to fab a skid plate to go over it or is it just for road emergencies?

 

What specifically makes it capable of such high print speeds?

 

There is not one thing I can point to. It is an accumulation of many things. Weight in and of it's self is a really big one. With the exception of the extrusions in the corners, the rest of the frame is solid 3/4" thick aluminum. Machined flat to within 0.0005". It is assembled 100% metal on metal. 0 plastic gussets/brackets in the frame or motion system. The idler pulleys ride on shafts held in precision reamed holes so they will never move. All the axis move on linear rails. The cross bar is a precision machined cross bar. That's just the big things, I could go on and on and on about all the little things. Quality pulleys, belts, motors, electronics. They all add up to big results. Eventually I'll throw a bowden setup in her and see what she is really capable of. That will probably wait until the tool changer though.

 

Fresh off the printer, removed supports, and a quick test fit. I saw one small thing that needed to be addressed, but I'll have a better idea tomorrow afternoon once I clean it up.

 

that looks great! keep us posted

 

Sorry for n00b spam, but this is the only forum or type of social media I use.

I got an Ender 3 Pro the other week, then got it assembled and working well with PLA. So far so good...

But switching to PETG is going really poorly. I keep trying different temperatures and print conditions, but I'm getting stringy prints where it doesn't look like enough material is being extruded. Even the top and bottom layers appear porous, like a lattice instead of a solid plane. The sidewalls are printing okay, but aren't properly connected to the infill, or to the top and bottom layers. I'm also fighting poor adhesion, poor strength (vs. PLA), and the printer randomly developing an offset partway up each print. It seems like the main problem is that my printer isn't extruding enough PETG per volume of the print, and I can't figure out how to change that.

Do any of you have suggestions for improving this type of behavior? For what it's worth: I have already swept reasonable temperatures (225-245) and print rates (20-60 mm/s). Next up will be trying again with the fan completely off. I am using Cura to generate the gcode.

 

More cooling fan, more infill, and from there I would increase extrusion multiplier. multiplier differs between types and brands of filaments.

 

I use 0% cooling when I print PETG. You probably need to calibrate your extruder. When I went from PLA to PETG, my extruder steps needed to be adjusted a lot.

 

Thanks guys! "Extrusion multiplier" is exactly what I was trying to describe. I think it's called "Flow" in Cura. I'm going to try a new run at 120% flow.

Is guess-and-check the correct way to calibrate the extruder, or is there a more formal process?

 

Measure 100mm from the end of the Bowden tube, mark filament with a sharpie, extrude 10mm. From there you can measure what didn't get extruded and do math, or guess and check until it is correct.