NW WA Meet / BS Thread

Mine are perfectly fine...my truck has only been on the beach twice, and both times I spent a great deal of time hosing everything down to make sure there was no standing salt water left on it. I'm just hoping I can keep and rebuild the next set of shocks for at least a decade.

 

stupid automatic 3.9s...

 

regear and 35s

 

Did you rebuild your Icons? Mine are way overdue and I want to rebuild them before my travel trailer gets here. I believe the squeak up front when I'm on the freeway are my front coilovers or my UCAs need grease, but I dont think that's it because i recently replaced my uniballs with the delta joint and replaced the bushings as well.

How hard is the rebuild on the Icons? Any write ups you know of? I saw one for a 4runner, thinking they are practically identical.

 

Ive rebuilt my own rears. My Fronts are due. Ive rebuilt other fronts though and they are all the same (more or less). If yours are squeaking I would lean more towards the spherical bearings (theres an upper by the top and then the lower one).

If your rebuild is only swapping the soft goods (wear band, o-rings, seals) its a simple thing to do. Gets a bit more complicated if you want to change valving since you get into the shim stacks.

The only real "hard parts" I would say are
1) Removing the spring on a C/O (if you dont have the right tools)
2) Setting the IFP correctly (not really that hard TBH)
3) Ensuring all the air is out (again not really that hard)
4) Filling with nitrogen (since most people dont have a nitrogen setup....plus ICON no-resi shocks need the needle port filler)

Just make sure when you remove each shim stack to just zip tie each stake in the exact order you removed so you dont mess up the order.


pretty much any King, Fox, ADS, ICON guide is going to be the same in the rebuild sense (they obviously differ in say piston design). A Remote Resi shock is a bit different than the Non-resi shocks just in the location of the IFP but thats pretty minor.

This gives a decent run down of it

 

I'm also curious about Icon rebuilds... but I'd probably be happy to pay someone to do it. Anyone know a place that'll do it?

 

I rebuilt mine. Well I haven't finished yet. 99% done. Ones done, the other just needs a clip and nitrogen recharged but its fairly easy, I followed this thread. They're for a different truck, but same process pretty much just different part numbers.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/icon-vehicle-dynamics-2-5-coilover-rebuild.515362/

 

Thanks man! Hey doesn't sound too bad, I've dealt with worse. I just ordered the "rebuild kit" from wheelers, with the new spherical bearings. Oil, seals, wear band. I hope they sent me everything i need, i might double check with you when i get them in.

Valving would make a big difference, and i would like to do that especially if the the COs are off the truck, i could bring them somewhere to get that done.

Yeah mine are non-resi. I think i could call around to motorcycle shops or off road shops to see if they would fill them with nitrogen.

How do you bleed off the nitrogen?

 

Yeah that's the thread i saw too. Pretty detailed. If i get stuck or need some advice i could give you a call to walk me through it. The rebuild kit with the oil from wheelers was $180 bucks does that sound right? gotta make sure im not missing any parts before i start this.

 

Bring me yours ill practice on them haha just kidding.

 

Holy crap! I just got a quote from Just Differentials in Cashmere, for 4.88 gears, parts and labor. Any guesses??

 

3k

 

I was just quoted about $2800 for 4.30s

 

$3300 out the door....

 

That sounds about right. The IFP rebuild kit is like $30 per shock if i remember right, ~$50 bucks for the shock oil (1 gallon), then if it included the spherical bushings it seems right.

Valving isnt bad to do if you are changing during a rebuild. Just talk to a shop and order a shim stack for compression and rebound based you what you want and they can send it to you. Then its just a matter of swapping the installed ones with the new ones.

You also need to ensure you either have, or the shop has a Needle Fill for the nitrogen as on the non-resi shocks, Icon uses needle fill ports instead of schrader valves. Which is a bit annoying as you cant "home test" with compressed air before taking it and paying for a nitrogen fill. You dont want to use compressed air permanently but to charge the shock and cycle it a time or two to ensure proper cycling and no leaks is fine IMO


As for bleeding off to begin disassembly, the IFP rebuild kits include a new needle fill port (if memory serves me right) so you can just slowly back out the installed one to release pressure. Its a small volume so itll bleed quick. (socket that fits and just slowly back it out till not pressure then remove it)

 

Yes, valving would make a big difference but it’s very hard to get it dialed in correctly on the first try. Shock tuning is a science way beyond just rebuilding. Most often shocks will need to come off the truck several times for changing stacks to get it perfect (or even just acceptable)

 

Ugh.

 

My buddy swears by Auburn Car Repair & Offroad. They'd be much closer to you than Cashmere, too. He's had lots of work done there, including regears.

 

Thanks Nick! Ill start calling around today looking for shop with a needle fill for nitro and someone to valve them while they are off. Kinda wish i kept my old front coils/struts and rear shocks so i can take the truck off jack stands if i need to wait a little while to get them back from the shop.

 

I called them too, they quoted me 2800+ tax to do all the work at their shop. I'm going to ask them today for a quote if i pull the 3rd members myself and bring them there to swap the gears. If that is too much, i guess ill just live with an under powered truck