Check engine light.

How many miles do I need to put on my truck to reset the gadget that monitors the the engine functions. I live in NY state. The rules may be different in other states that require yearly inspections. I turned off the light by lifting the battery connection off the battery. Not smart I know but high humidity and lugging the motor down on this truck seems to turn on the check engine light. Two weeks ago I paid 40 dollars to have the light turned off, the tech was reluctant to say that it did not need the parts described by the computer.

 

Are you talking about the “check engine” maintenance light? On my second gen I can reset it by holding down the odometer/trip reset button while turning the key to on and then off.

 

1st gens don't have a maintenance light

You paid someone to turn off your check engine light? All you have to do to turn it off is disconnect the battery or turn it off with a scan tool...but it will always come back on if the problem is still there. Sounds like that tech ripped you off for a few bucks

Only way to get rid of a check engine light is to fix the problem. The truck's ECU stores the problem code in it's memory and even if your check engine light is off, the problem code will still show up in the ECU when scanned. If your state does smog checks with scanners then they will see the code even if the check engine light is off, and you'll fail.

Long story short, get the truck fixed to get rid of the code. Find out what the code is and track down the issue from there

 

Welcome aboard Fred
An engine ready check takes multiple drive cycles with cool downs between. The EVAP cycle takes the longest but less time if gas tank is less than 1/2 ffull. After the cycle runs you may still get check engine light if repairs were not made and problem corrected.

 

I'm kind of confused by his post because the way it was worded, it sounds like the tech told him the light just needed to be "turned off" and it didn't need anything to be fixed. Which doesn't make any sense, the check engine light doesn't just come on for no reason.

I'm curious to know what the actual code is

 

I gotcha, 1st time poster, turn off MIL,
Now what?
2nd thread incoming
Turned off MIL
MIL back ON,
Now what?

 

Simple thing to do in preparation for SmogCheck is to check AirFilter, fuel Cap gasket and all the Vacuum hoses for cracks as this will cause vacuum leak in low/high pressure states. (Vacuum leaks will also cause Check Engine light to come on). In general you should replace the AirFilter, Spark plugs (NGK,Denso) OilChange. you`ll be surprise how much more efficient your Tacoma will perform. (You`ll also be surprise how inexpensive the OEM spark plugs cost) Do not recommend any other spark plugs no matter of their Marketing and high cost.

 

Where do you get inexpensive dual electrode Irridium or Platinum OEM spark plugs?

 

I believe what the OP is referring to are the smog monitors. All of your monitors have to have been run and passed for your truck to pass smog. Most inexpensive OBDII scanners can check to see if you are "smog ready". The most difficult to pass monitors are the evap monitors. A certain set of prescribed conditions HAVE to be met. Engine cold for at least 8 hours, fuel tank between 1/4 and 3/4 and this has to be done twice.

 

glad my state just made it so vehicles from before 2005 are exempt from the check engine light on inspections.

 

NY doesn't have smog test, just a general maintenance inspection, annually. I interpret the original post to say he has a more or less infrequent CEL, to which I too can relate. Mine pops a 0420 every few months. Just about the time I think it is over it, and pops again. OP you will probably need to run somewhere between 50 and a 100 miles, but you also need to factor in cool down cycles as well. I needed to take my battery off, just before inspection time last fall, while in WVa. So drove over 450 miles back home, and it had still not fully reset. Took a couple of days for everything to reset. My mechanic (and good friend) loaned me a monitoring tool he had, so I knew exactly when it had reset.

 

thats how i took it as well.
they just changed how that works in MA. Maybe they did the same in NY.
as I said earlier. Vehicles 15 years or older need not to worry about inspections here anymore for check engine lights.

 

NapaAutoPars & CarQuestAuto have the four pack of OEM Denso/NGK for ~$10 4pack. Have done many tune-ups and have rarely seen Irridium/Platinum plugs installed on 1st gen Toyota Trucks(other than what some people have installed when replacing the Factory Toyota Denso/NGK plugs.) Bosch Platinum would be Ok. Irridium or expensive Platinum plugs are not necessary for 1st gen toyota trucks .(NGK/Denso plugs perform fine per TOYOTA specs).

 

I believe you are speaking of spark plugs for 6 cyl.3.4L single electrode copper with replacement recommend at around 30,000 mi.
Spark plugs recommended for 3rz 4cyl are dual electrode platinum which are recommended to be changed around
100,000 mi.

 

Yes SingleElectrodeCopper..Have also seen this on 2.4L 2RZ engines. As you mentioned Iridium SparkPlugs have a 100k maintenance interval. But OfCourse experienced have thought us that even with 100k endurance rating, Iridium SparkPlugs should be replaced ~70-90k to maintain efficiency & performance. Yes Iridium SparkPlugs will gradually degrade before its expected 100k rating.

 

In NY with a 2004 vehicle you can have 1 readiness monitor not set and it will still pass emissions. There is still a 'smog test' in NY, it's just done by using the OBD to monitor emissions realtime, instead of a 'sniffer' up the tailpipe. 1996-2000 model years can have 2 readiness monitors not set and still pass. 1995 and older, emissions exempt. 2001-2018, 1 monitor not ready. All vehicles 2 years old or newer, emissions exempt.

 

@Danny070
1st gen Toyota trucks were produced from 1968 to 1972.
Did you mean 1st gen Tacoma?

 

@Danny070
The 3rz is a bored over 2.4L which calls for Noble metal spark plugs to prevent seize in aluminum head.
The 1.9L 2.2L 2.4L and 3.4 tolerate less Noble metal (copper) much better than the 2.7L.
Spending $10 on a pack of 4 NAPA spark plugs that may seize after 30k mi.isn't my idea of good sense.
I've gone over 100,000 mi on Denso Platinum duals with no performance loss. And please do not suggest antiseize because Platinums don't need or recommend it. TY
RANT over
Carry on.

 

regardless of what metal the electrode is made of the body of all plugs is still good old steel and electrode material has nothing to do with whether a spark plug seizes in a head. There is *nothing* special about the aluminium head of a 3rz, and using copper spark plugs will actually give you hotter spark, because copper is a better conductor than platinum or iridium. Platinum and iridium plugs *only* benefit is that they last longer.

In fact, the only metal that has greater electrical conductivity than copper is pure silver, which is very expensive and very soft but would make an extremely efficient spark plug, for about 10 minutes.

If you're worried about seizing, just RTFM and put a dab of engine oil on the threads *like all spark plug manufacturers tell you to*
</rant>

 

@paetersen
I totally agree with you about the good old steel body of spark plugs and silver vs copper. The simple process of plating that good old steel with platinum or Irridium increases their life to 100,000 mi and insures ease of removal.
When I first read the recommended service interval of 100,000 mi I thought it was a misprint. No way, that's cray cray, BULLSHIT. I did a lot of reasearch and left plugs in for 120,000 mi.
When I pulled the plugs and ultrasound cleaned them I could have put them in the new plug box and returned them as new for a refund.