Northern Virginia Roll Call

IIRC he did this in the field during that 4 part series with Aussie Four Wheelers (and the incredible silver GU Patrol on 40s lol).

 

These aren't the exact ones (unavailable), but they look the same.

Corner Bracket Angle Bracket 5" x 3"/125mmX75mm"L" Corner Brace Heavy Duty Stainless Steel 6 Pack Joint Angle Brackets Shelf Wall Hanging Supporter with Screws

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07L8VYBJ3/ref=dp_prsubs_2

There's some others lower in the page that are cheaper and may work the same.

 

@fatfurious2 @bbq4133 let me know if there is a Leesburg mini meet. I will walk to the Safeway...

@pabstsmeared...



I guess it was a wittle noisy.

 

Breath, blood or urine? No thanks, I'm full.

 

greg is right, it’s not something you can change. You need something like a hyper tech which is an in-line corrector. It just intercepts the signal, modifies it to what you have set, and forwards that to the cluster. Works great.

 

I'll be there provided it's not apocalyptic outside!

 

I figured. But ya never know. Maybe someone had figured out how to hakorz things. Heck, I'm still trying to get my GMRS radio to function correctly. So maybe me and electronical things don't mix anymore.

 

So where are you at with that anyways? Like what's your next step.

 

BLUF: I'm emailing with Midland about a replacement.

Up to now I've tried a ton of stuff. I got an antenna cable made with LMR 195 cable. That didn't work. I also made sure to run the antenna cable outside the truck so it wasn't picking up some kind of RF. I did the same with the power leads. Straight to the battery outside the truck. I also tried a ferrite bead on the power leads. Nope. Midland thought it might be LED lighting, but it's not. Only repeatable I can get it turning the truck on and off. I'd really just want to replace the thing to rule out variables.

 

I hope they do. What we can also do next weekend is swap my radio into your truck and visa versa and see if it persists. That way if they don't send you one, we can rule that out.

 

Good call. It's literally a 30 second process to swap. I just emailed the dude back to clarify. He said it was in the works for a replacement, but then we started talking about some more testing to see where the interference is coming from.

I have had some of the craziest luck with this truck. My latest is I ordered some upper ball joints. I had to order one from Amazon and one from Rock Auto because of stocking. The Rock Auto one is at Dulles then somehow ends up in Kent, Washington. Meanwhile, the Amazon shows up and it looks kind of wrong. The part number stamped on the part is right, the plastic bag has the right one, and so does the box. I put it away and don't think about it. The Rock Auto one shows up and it's very different. Turns out the Amazon one is definitely wrong. I don't even know how these things happen.

 

So for a while now i've thought about having one of my spare third members built for the rear diff. If i were to do it, should i 1. leave it open (0$), 2. put a spool in it (150$), or 3. do an ARB locker (900$) - Keep in mind this would be strictly a spare.

 

So I emailed Jerry from BAMF and this stacking is indeed how his bolt on sliders and skids work together, so I assume that means I’m fairly free to go BAMF or Mobtown here.

Leaning BAMF (like the idea of keeping it consistent), but it’s nice to have options.

(I like confirmation of things lol)

 

Usually best policy to leave it to the experts lol

 

Facts matter!

 

I figured he designed them, he’d know lol

 

Unless....

 

Please finish this sentence lmao

 

I guess it depends. Spare for running around town in while you get your main one fixed, then take it back out? Leave it open. Spare to swap in and leave in if you grenade your current one? Lunchbox locker.

 

Nah. Savor the suspense.