Intermittent starting issues 2013 TRD sport now not starting

Hey gents

first let me just say this is Thee best forum ever! Especially when your Tacoma has had the electrical problems mine has had. Anyways, my truck was having issues starting for about two weeks now (turn the key and no cranking or clicking sounds BUT the radio the blower motor and the dash warning lights would all light up. Each time i checked the battery with a meter it would read around 12.5 usually 12.6. After multiple attempts the engine would crank but it cranked longer than normal as if it would when out of fuel but would start. For about 5 days I had zero issues starting it but then again it started about 3 days ago. Not it will not start ever at all. I did notice last night my check engine light came on. I hooked it up ran a diagnostic and received the following code

P0335 “crankshaft position sensor A circuit”

Initially i was thinking an issue with the ignition switch until I read that is ruled out by the fact everything turns on when turning the key to start. I tapped on the starter with a hammer with no avail. Where should I look for the issue - I’ve had issues with bad grounds especially when a mechanic had connected my passenger side headlights hi beam connector to the trucks ground. Constantly melting the drivers side headlight bulbs connector. Had issues with my blower motor the resistor fuses blown and was just recently bragging that all my electric problems were solved so I jinxed myself.

Is this crankshaft sensor hard to get to and can i get to it without lifting the truck?

Thanks guys

Mark

 

That code shouldn’t come on unless, the truck is cranking OR running.

When you turn the key, and nothing happens is should not be related to the P0335 code.
The “longer” crank times could indeed be caused by the P0355.
This code is thrown if there is NO signal to the ECM from the crank sensor.

You need to first figure out why the truck doesn’t want to crank.
What is the battery voltage when trying to crank?
Use the voltmeter and see what the voltage is while you try to crank the truck.

There are numerous things it could be, from a bad Park / Neutral Safety Switch, Relay, ECM, starter, or ignition switch.


FWIW, it could be the ignition switch, the ignition switch has a separate “circuit” just for the starter. I personally, doubt it is the ignition switch.

 

Thank you for the reply

Battery without the key in the ignition is at 12.65 and when I turn the key to start the engine, the battery output rotates between 12.45 and 12.55.

Im trying to find the location of the starter now because I do not believe the person assisting me yesterday knew what he was looking for.

Is there an easy way to test the ignition switch or does it need to come out first?

 

So I removed the starter relay hooked power up to it and achieved continuity between the two leads. Also, when connecting the + and - circuit leads I got that clicking sound so as of now I believe the relay is ok. I’m going to try and get to the starter to run the meter from the positive terminal of my battery to the connection on the starter. Be right back hopefully

 

I have some news

I took the horns relay out and plugged it into the starter relays slot and boom! She started right up!

thanks for listening and for the advice

-Mark