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Fuel injection is flooding engine on 2.4L 98

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by restorer, Jul 25, 2020.

  1. Jul 25, 2020 at 7:59 AM
    #1
    restorer

    restorer [OP] Member

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    I am new here and new as far as forums. I have a 98 tacoma that I rebuilt the motor. I have rebuilt all kinds of Toyota motors and never run into this kind of problem. OK so the Truck starts but does not want to idle, open it up and and it will race up. It also acts like the timing is off. So I pulled the plugs and sure enough they are black from being rich. I also double checked the cams and the dots line up on the backs of the cams and the cam and crank gears are lined up as well. I decided to replace the crank sensor, cam sensor, O2s ( up and down), Map sensor, throttle position sensor, computer temp sensor, fuel regulator, coils, wires and spark plugs, and last but not least the computer. I still have the plugs fouling. No one has been able to tell me is it the cam sensor that controls the injection or is it the crank sensor. Narrowing down what is causing the injectors to either having the duty cycle open to long or not firing at the right time is a big part of the problem if not all. If anyone has a answer they would like to share it would be greatly apricated. Thanks
     
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  2. Jul 25, 2020 at 8:26 AM
    #2
    Wyoming09

    Wyoming09 Well-Known Member

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    The Cam and Crank sensors just send the signal to the ECM it is a simple signal only 2 of the 12 I think going to the ECM that gathers all the information adjusts all the needed things

    Put simple it is the complete engine electronics package !

    When you did the engine did you have the injectors serviced ( cleaned and flow tested)or go with new ones?

    A little dirt goes a long way to causing them to leak.
     
  3. Jul 25, 2020 at 9:02 AM
    #3
    mechanicjon

    mechanicjon They call me "Jonny Stubs"

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    Does the fuel pressure regulator on the 4cyl have engine vacuum run too it? If so the fuel pressure regulator may have a blown diaphragm.
     
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  4. Jul 25, 2020 at 12:34 PM
    #4
    restorer

    restorer [OP] Member

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    I think I started a new thread, sorry. I replaced the regulator thinking that could be the problem holdind the pressure to high, no change. However with the vacuume line from the regulator, it went to the intake pipe and with the new cold air there is no nipple on the pipe. At the pipe you are not really getting true vacume but sense I deleted the EGR I had extra ports on the throttle body and I used one of them. Thjat change might cause an issue with the regulator but I am not sure. As I said on the other thread, I installed a new fuel Pump and my pressure is at 48#.
     
  5. Jul 25, 2020 at 1:02 PM
    #5
    Black DOG Lila

    Black DOG Lila Well-Known Member

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  6. Jul 25, 2020 at 1:49 PM
    #6
    mechanicjon

    mechanicjon They call me "Jonny Stubs"

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    If i didn't have vacuum to it before don't run it to the throttle body. Leave it open to air.
     
  7. Jul 25, 2020 at 1:50 PM
    #7
    mechanicjon

    mechanicjon They call me "Jonny Stubs"

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    How did you delete the egr?
     
  8. Jul 25, 2020 at 1:55 PM
    #8
    mechanicjon

    mechanicjon They call me "Jonny Stubs"

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    Emission charcoal canister vacuum lines correct? Try plugging off the big hose from the canister to the intake manifold.
     
  9. Jul 25, 2020 at 3:13 PM
    #9
    Wyoming09

    Wyoming09 Well-Known Member

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    Instead of leaking injectors lines hooked up wrong dumping liquid fuel into the intake ?

    It would not be the first time.
     
  10. Jul 25, 2020 at 5:22 PM
    #10
    restorer

    restorer [OP] Member

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    The wire loom kind of keeps you from plugging them in wrong but I will double check. I can unplug the vacuum line from the throttle body, and on the Egr you make (machine block off plates on the head and the intake). When I lived up north of Seattle I built lots of first gen MR2s for long shore men who were auto crossing and hill climbing, so all emissions would come off and I would get the motors to breath better. left the charcoal canister to open air with the hose off. I will check the wiring tomorrow morning as well as tring the vacuum line. Thanks
     
  11. Jul 26, 2020 at 11:31 AM
    #11
    restorer

    restorer [OP] Member

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    Hi, I installed a nipple on the intake tube and hooked up the regulator to it there are now 3 plugged vacume ports on the top of the throttle body. I double checked the routing on the injectors and the stock harness in the mounting points won;t let you put them in any differently because the wires are to short, but that would defently cause the same problem. The truck coughs and sputtters at low RPM but up over 3000 it runs but still has a miss. I told my son If I can not getting it running right I was going to drop in a HiPo 289 and put a 64MM turbo with a 6 speed Trimic behind it. There just sitting in the shop waiting to be used. However I think a Lexis V6 with the Turbo would be better.
    The hose from the charcoal can is just the vent and the EPA does not want it venting to the open air because of fumes, however once the vapers go through the charcoal there are no fumes left so just leaving it open is fine.
    If anyone has any more ideas I would greatly apreciate them. I did this project for a little shop truck so turning it into a little sleeper was not the plan. Thanks
     
  12. Jul 26, 2020 at 12:28 PM
    #12
    mechanicjon

    mechanicjon They call me "Jonny Stubs"

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    There's 2 large vapor lines. One goes to open air the other to the manifold. If the vsv valve isn't functioning right or the lines are switched, the motor will pull vapor fumes our of the tank causing a rich condition. Check engine light on? Do you have a scanner?
     
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  13. Jul 26, 2020 at 12:29 PM
    #13
    mechanicjon

    mechanicjon They call me "Jonny Stubs"

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    No signs of fuel in the pressure regulator vacuum line?
     
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  14. Jul 26, 2020 at 12:31 PM
    #14
    mechanicjon

    mechanicjon They call me "Jonny Stubs"

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    Injectors been checked?
     
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  15. Jul 26, 2020 at 6:05 PM
    #15
    restorer

    restorer [OP] Member

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    Ok I checked the lines and there good, and I have a scanner it shows no codes and there are no check engine lights. If it would through a code that would help matters. There is no fuel in the vacuum line but I did another test on the fuel pressure and when you turn on the ignition switch it shows 48#s , then when you turn it off it drops to 42#s, wait 10 min and it drops to 10#s. So could the new injectors be leaking and therefore dumping to much fuel or just shooting it instead of spraying it. For all 4 it was only $100 but better then the $30 set.
     
  16. Jul 26, 2020 at 9:41 PM
    #16
    mechanicjon

    mechanicjon They call me "Jonny Stubs"

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    Very posibble there's an injector or 2 leaking.
    Do you have your old ones? Maybe put those back in and see how it runs.
     
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  17. Jul 26, 2020 at 10:00 PM
    #17
    cruiserguy

    cruiserguy Well-Known Member

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    All 4 injectors new was a hundred bucks??? If so, those are gonna be counterfeits and the source of your problem as you state. A few instances here of counterfeit injectors jacking things up in folks Tacomas.
     
  18. Jul 27, 2020 at 7:01 AM
    #18
    restorer

    restorer [OP] Member

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    The engine had 280,000 miles on it and the owner said it had not had anything done to it. Do injectors normally leak down over a few minuets of setting. I will order a new set, but what would be a good brand? O'Reilly's has a set for $500 and change, Toyota has them for $40 more, in which case I would just get the Toyota ones. And you are right I got them through Rockauto but I am sure they were Chinese knockoffs, trying to save a buck can cause alot of problems and more money in the long run. If you have any advise on brand or where to buy I am all ears. Thanks
     
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  19. Jul 27, 2020 at 7:25 AM
    #19
    cruiserguy

    cruiserguy Well-Known Member

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    Some brands sell reboxed OEM injectors, like intermotor is one that does. I can't think of the others.
    @CS_AR might have an idea of additional brands that rebox and sell Aisin/Denso injectors.
    If the other brands come to me or if I notice while reading I'll come back here to see if it's been mentioned. Also try a search of the forum here. I'm sure they've been mentioned here.
     
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  20. Jul 27, 2020 at 9:11 AM
    #20
    CS_AR

    CS_AR Well-Known Member

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    The only ones that I trust to be reboxed OEM are Intermotor from Rock Auto. Sometimes I think Beck Arnley gets some of the same stock but will remove the o-rings and seals and sell them separately. Not worth the hassle in my opinion. Replacing injectors with new OEM or reboxed OEM is a once in a 20-year investment. Based on the expected service life, getting Intermotor or Denso from Rock is worth it. Beware of counterfeits that look like Denso or Asian. They are out there at prices that are too good to be true.
     
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