The Lair

GMRS radio and wheel sensor protectors. I figured out the battery problem fairly cheaply.

 

Everything. Essentially what they want to figure out is sprung weight, unsprung weight an where the shock is located within the suspension travel.

Weight alone wont tell them enough as the shock could have different leverage depending on its placement if that makes sense.

 

He asked me like he was trying to build me a dating profile lol

 

They have a sheet to fill out. I'm would assume thats next.

 

Have some of those b110s for sale too @pabstsmeared . my kings are a bit jarring too and I have a lot of weight. Im thinking Randy's truck is going to be as fun as @3pooches to ride in!!! Keep dialing it in!!

 

I’ll let you know what the final cost ends up being. I’m most likely going to buy the stuff to charge the shocks myself (Accutune ships them uncharged) because the one place I know locally charges like $50 per shock or something ridiculous. I can get the stuff to do it myself for like $200

 

that’s crazy. I found a local MX suspension shop that will do it for $10 per shock.

Cheapest I could find to build my own nitrogen fill tank was just shy of $300

 

I’ll have to poke around some more and see if someone can do it cheaper because $10 per would be awesome.

 

it would be a beneficial investment for your own fill tank. Then you could start offering shock rebuilds and play around with tuning your own shocks and testing different pressures.

 

I don’t think I would be comfortable rebuilding someone else’s without doing my own first, but I get where you’re coming from. It would be nice to have my own set up even if it’s just to charge my shocks and other people’s shocks. Because I know I’ll have to do my fronts within a year and I’ll need those charged too, whether I do the rebuild myself or not.

 

I must learn and acquire these things between year and 2 years likely from now, and you'll be out West by then!

 

Made that filthy water look good.

 

@crashdb you recently sound deadened your interior, correct?

 

Just some of it. I'd like to get to the rest at some point. I believe Brian is further along than I am.

 

I ended up just ordering stuff to do my whole interior. Up until now I've considered it a lost cause because I don't have carpet, but I have to reduce how noisy the cabin is on the highway. Long drives to go wheeling are physically exhausting because of it. I got the butyl mat as well as the foam mat. Going to do the doors, back wall and roof and see how it does. Then figure out something for the floor if needed. I was going to ask for recommendations but I already purchased stuff.

 

The two layer approach works well. You'll need something for the floor. Willing to bet most of your road noise is reflecting up off the road. Look into Lizard Skin or something like that for the floor.

You said earplugs were a no-go? I wear them on motorcycles because the noise was wearing me out on long trips. Once I started wearing them it was a world of difference.

 

The over the ear ones are ok, but then I get bored. I'd have to get the ones I can listen to music in as well, but honestly I'd rather just fix the problem at the source. Even just going to base yesterday was like 10 min on the highway and that's when I was like, I absolutely have to fix this.

 

Yeah. No bueno.

 

You need MLV and a decoupling layer (1/16" neoprene) to really cut down on the dB's...

If you order MLV, make sure it's "virgin"

I have all the stuff to do my truck, but haven't really found the time...ideally your layering should go as follows:

Body metal -> butyl mat -> closed cell foam mat -> MLV -> neoprene -> carpet/interior panel

 

I got the butyl and the closed cell foam. I didn't even know about the other layers, but I may eventually add those. Just putting carpet back in and adding these two layers should make a world of difference compared to what it is now. I don't need it to be ultra quiet, just like back to what it used to be, maybe a bit better.