TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

That's because bank 2's fueling strategy is different from B1. If it takes too long however you may have an issue with actual fueling in which case you should take a look at your air fuel ratio sensor. Injectors would be my second suggestion.. but the Denso TRD injectors are pretty resilient unless you went with the FIC Bosch EV14s previously.

 

Trying to figure out a different intake to run. Looking a. 2018 4 running intake. The pipe by the maf is 3.5” inside diameter. Seems like the best bet. And then u can get the K&n intake pipe from the stock box to the throttle body.

 

It's all going to be work no matter which way you go if you want bigger which seems to be a great solution for our MAF voltage top out issue on the Tacoma intake setups. Page 1 has your solution.

 

It doesn’t take too long I guess. I noticed it with the FIC 650s. I will have to open one of my older logs with the trd squirters and see.

 

AEM

 

I’ll have to run some logs I’m pretty sure mine is down in the 10-11’s yet fuel trims, Knock etc all look pretty good. But I know when we started I was running 20% richer.

 

140+ lbs! Ha we’ll finally got my truck weighed. Holy well explains why the truck feels good but not “fast” lugging around an extra Honda CRX with me.

 

10 will wash the cylinders down, but the neighborhood of 11.5 will not, at least not as bad. Which is where max fuel power is made under WOT for boosted vehicles.

Unfortunately boosted vehicles require more fuel to keep the extra air entering the combustion chambers cool. The extra point of AFR over the nominal 12.5 @ WOT where NA vehicles live is a necessary compromise otherwise risk blowing the engine up due to excessive heat (otherwise known as lean circumstances). That necessary evil comes in the form of extra maintenance.. mainly spark plug replacements.. All boosted owners must accept the consequences of living in richer environments.. if they can't or don't, a new NA vehicle is the most viable option for their future.

 

7000 lbs! Oh my god dude! No wonder you get garbage for fuel economy!

 

Yah I was more tripping as the supercharger and mods made it even worse. I was hoping the extra power would help. I’m sure more work needs to be done although it seems somewhat happy but yah she’s a pig

 

Yeah I mean it will help haul around stuff due to the extra power... Of course with that extra weight comes the loss of economy due to the fact that you have to extra air charge coming in and require additional fuel to match that additional air charge.

 

@12TRDTacoma

Although all of the numbers thrown around are decent benchmarks, everything depends on different variables. Some like to tune solely based on AFR, some with EGTs and whatnot. Cant say that all boosted applications are the same, especially since in the trd sc case what we have isn't so forgiving as your typical setup (we have a high compression/low boost situation).

Yes, a 11-11.5 are will allow cooling properties as well as slightly more timing...but you'd really have to put it on a dyno to see how it compares to a leaner AFR when it compares to power and that means peak and drivability, and what is more important to you.

Btw, I think I grew up with benchmarks of NA at 13.5 and boosted at 12.5. I had an NA Honda that loved an AFR of 14.5 when timing in the 40s at 6-9000rpm. Goes against the rules but she lasted many seasons.

 

Whoo, Honda's are incredibly simplistic, especially the ones of yesteryear, the 90s and early to mid 2000 Honda's were wild in the tuning scene. People love(d) the B, F and K series engines. I have worked on them for most of my professional automotive career and I still enjoy wrenching on them to this day because of their simplistic designs and their ability to rev to the moon without throwing rods.

Yeah I've heard 12 and 12.5 get thrown as well. It's sort of a subjective subject with no clear cut defined answer. Especially depending on the engine that you have.

I'll tell you right now that my (our) 4.0L is not too happy making 12.5 AFR under WOT in boosted conditions because the moment I got knocked down one point under WOT the truck was SO much happier. Lots of pep and the power all around was notably up. Granted I'm sure timing had a lot to play on that part. If I remember right I think my GTO ran at 12.5 but that was a big 6.0L NA cammed V8. It was either 12.5 or 11.5, I am totally blanking out on which it was right now. I wish I would had dyno'ed it back in the day but I'm sure I was making something north of 430WHP easily.

Either way, charts indicate that if you want to make the most power out of gasoline, 11.5 is where you go. Whether or not you want to go there due to other reasons (ease of maintenance is definitely one of those) is purely up to the tuner and end user. Tuning based upon EGTs are usually more of a diesel related realm that of which I am not familiar with. Truthfully I have never heard of a gas powered engine tuner tuning based on exhaust gas temperatures, maybe on turbocharged engines?

 

Oh yes, EGT tuning and spark plug reading is old school...today commonly known as black magic.

At any rate, much more than I wanted to get into for our trucks. Biggest reason I'm staying away from hptuners, because knowing me thats where my sleepless nights will go. I guess you can call it "settling".

 

I'm seeing 11.7-12 on my setup with the trd tune. Trd injectors, 2.85 pulley, I/H/E with y-pipe. She seems to like the suggested heat range plugs more than the step colder everyone else is running as well.

 

Spark plug reading is considered "black magic" by today's standards for sure. Most just simply don't know what's what these days... I guess a lot of true tuner/ mechanics work in general is sort of a dying breed, but there will always be a small niche community like us who keeps the spirit alive and evolving.

I agree. HPT is a rabbit hole you can delve into for hours and hours. You can definitely lose a lot of sleep over it. 11.7 is not bad 12 is ehhh.. you definitely can't take full advantage of all the timing available but I guess it's a compromise you can make with an end result of slightly less maintenance intervals to deal with over some of us. Sometimes settling isn't a bad thing. I out of anyone can understand and fully relate to that despite all the mods.

Interestingly enough these engines are just incredibly choked down in OE form. I don't think the factory ever anticipated fanatics like us wanting to do so much to their trucks after the fact they slapped their blower on it, but for sale of tuning and go fast, why the heck not you know what I mean?! If you are capable of fully utilizing the 1GRs breathing capabilities the blower will respond worlds better than what it ever dreamt of doing in OE TRD/ Magnuson blower form. Step down the pulley size just a bit for better throttle response while keeping within the blowers efficiency range and you are in absolutely golden territory. I used to run a 2.5, then a 2.3 and now I'm back up to a 2.8.

I don't know who here is running IKH-24 derivative equals but I have determined after spending a lot of time screwing with different types of plugs that the OE blower heat range plugs tend to not only burn better, causing less HCs out of the engine, but they have better self cleaning properties which is a much needed big deal for us.

 

Atleast toyota took into consideration that fueling a sc was holding back their 1st gens and gave us the bigger injectors plus a tune. There is always more to be had.

 

Holy shit....

 

More energy to move that mass. If you haven't already (which I kind of feel that you had), upgrade your gears. Frame reinforcement too.

 

Hot damn I think you have me beat lol. Was that fully loaded?