TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

I know I'm close to that, I figured 6200 for mine. Gotta get it on the scales some day

 

use your muscles and bend it a little.

 

tiny washer did the trick for me

 

He does not like bending things.

 

AFR gauge went out today, hopefully just a faulty signal ground. Signal cable looks OK under the truck so far, but haven't opened up the dash yet.
Illumination works (dial and needle), and the gauge jumps a quarter inch on ignition on, but sticks max counter-clockwise after that.

 

Ok so checked everything, couldn't find any problems, fired it up and now is working.
I'm thinking either I have a poorly insulated signal wire that was contacting ground, a faulty harness (possibly pulled a wire), or the O2 sensor is already going.
Any thoughts?

 

When my O2 sensor went out it was pegged at 10, wouldn't move.

 

Interesting, thanks for the info. So probably not my O2 sensor then.

Two more things:
Does anybody else's jump around from 14 to 15 on startup? Does it about 5 times then settles.
Also I'm wondering if I had the insulation around the sensor was too close to the bung, possibly it was trapping heat and overheated the sensor, moved it back and tied it, see before and after.

Edit/update:
Drove around for a while in the 95 degree heat, AFR gauge worked fine. Parked, shut the engine off, waited ten minutes to reproduce the preceding events to the issue, and the gauge is again not working exactly as described above.

 

I know this is late since others posted their rides a while back, but here is some old photos of my muscle car glory days of my GTO as well as a build list prior to making the switch over to this truck build. This was one nasty 6.0L. I miss the power, but I don't miss the problems.

- HPTuners w/ SD tune
- Comp Cams 232/228 .574/.569 115 LSA reverse split cam
- Typhoon intake manifold
- Svedespeed Over The Radiator intake
- GZ Motorsports vacuum pump
- Yella Terra roller rockers
- ASP lightweight crank pulley
- Borla X-pipe
- Corsa DB Red mufflers
- race built 4L65e transmission
- Yank 3500 stall converter
- Driveshaft Shop aluminum one piece driveshaft
- Eaton Tru-Trac IFS
- Hinson polyurethane engine mounts
- Team SCSS polyurethane transmission mount
- Pedders fully adjustable coilovers
- Hawk slotted rotors

Don't mind the junk in the garage, we just moved in at the time.













Here is a final video sound clip I took of the exhaust before selling it:

https://youtu.be/V17zzUz8DuA

 

Gave it some time to cool off, working fine again. Pretty sure my O2 sensor is crap as @12TRDTacoma describes. Will be purchasing a new one to see if that solves the issue.

 

And here I was hoping for a 2nd Gen Tacoma LS swap.....

 

I wouldn't mind that, but hey you know. California bro.

 

I know of at least one. Was an XRunner. Drifted it. Now it is lifted w/long travel and caged. Still drifts it. Has a legal LS swap. I am not sure thr exact details of it.

 

Hello all, Looking for some advice/help.

I'm needing to replace the serpentine belt, belt tensioner, belt tensioner pulley, trans hose (P#T776), and recommending a trans flush/refill.

Story,
Truck (15 auto) has 68k on the clock, SC (TRD, 3'' pulley) was put on at 18K at a Toyota dealer.
Was driving with the family on the free way needed to pass another car. Gave it some gas truck down shifted heard a pop and lost some power. Looked in the mirror and saw a bunch of smoke, no dash lights came on. Pulled over to a convenient rest stop less than a mile down the road. Got out popped the hood SC belt was gone but still in the engine bay. Got it towed to my house then to the shop Monday morning.

Shop is a reputable Toyota shop, State Automotive. Sounds like the point of failure was the tensioner.

Labor and parts comes to a little over $1800. I don't have the time, knowledge, or tools to do the work. I don't want to have to worry about this happening again and feel like the truck is a little young for this kind of thing. I had the SC belt changed out just over a year ago, and trans fluids done just before Thanksgiving. Oil gets changed every 5k and I take care of the smaller regular maintenance stuff.

I'm thinking of going aftermarket parts as I want reliability. I have seen the options on the first page of the thread and just wanted to get some options and opinions after sharing the what happened and the age of the truck.

 

LS3 e-Rod package. CARB legal crate motor.

 

Why so much money for a new tensioner assembly, belt, tranny drain and fill and if I'm reading this right, a new transmission housing?!

I am going to look at that. I HATE GM trannies like the plague. Not to mention their wiring sucks royal.

 

Seems high but then again I wonder what is wrong with bell housing. Engine light won’t come on even if you blow your engine (ask me how I know). Also did they give you an explanation for why you had smoke out the back? Did you loose a hose?

 

I hope nothing is wrong with the bell housing.

Smoke was from the fluid getting on the exhaust. It even got on my bike rack, https://scontent-den4-1.xx.fbcdn.ne...=518108b7cabebf022c23525e8a99dd79&oe=5F4613F7

 

What fluid is that? Motor oil, coolant, trans oil, or PS?

Did the blower belt break and take out the power steering stuff (ATF)? If that fluid is coolant, how is it leaking that much coolant?

If that is trans ATF, then i guess the dealer noticed transmission damage?

 

Your story doesn't make much sense to be honest. You stated you needed a transmission housing but now you are saying you don't.

I'll tell you what happened, you tried to give the truck some juice and snapped the tensioner and the belt cut into the thermostat housing from the rotational inertia it had, making it throw coolant out all over the place. Since you were moving the coolant went backwards and got flung onto the manifolds making all the smoke you saw under the hood.

Moral of this story, you need a thermostat housing assembly, coolant, a serpentine belt, and a new tensioner. If they want to charge you $1800 to replace the above indicated WALK and WALK HARD. Take it to a shop that is reasonable in pricing and move on with your life.