1999 Tacoma SR5 TRD Imperial Jade Build, Sweat and Tears

So far the front CVs are still leaking and the trans is still leaking. I ordered the seals and Im waiting for them to come in.

The trans still has the Valvoline 75-90w GL4 non syncro oil. 1st, 3rd and reverse aint liking it too much. I ordered Redline MT90 but forgot to change the shipping address and it went to LA.
So Im waiting for it to get re-routed.

As soon as I get everything sealed Im going to switch to Valvoline full synthetic 75-90w in everything and run Redline MT90 in the trans.

Ive taking the driveline in and out a few times to try and get everything lined up right and I think I got it today. It still might need a washer to lower the center support bearing.
I think the rest of the vibes might be coming from a bad CV axle. I also think the wobble of the worn out CV might be taking out the CV seal. So now I want/need to find some green CV axles.
Also I read someone saying the needle bearings might be going out. I need to find a write up on that.

I still also really regret putting the Dakars on my truck. Its stupid high. I even took the 5100s out and raised the front again and it still doesnt match the rear and now the truck rides like shit from the preload.
My plan is to pull one of the overload leafs. If thats not good enough Im going back to stock with a 1.5 inch wheelers helper leaf. I should of just done that in the first place.

Kind of getting tired of taking the same crap off and putting it on over and over again.




One up from the bottom setting was perfect for the stock springs (2nd ring). I moved it to the 3rd to try and match the rear. Its still not close and the preload is way to high.
Im going to lower in back to the 2nd one in a couple days.


Put the bed back on. 2 of the bolts are stripped out, so I might have to pull it off again and put new threads in.

 

So this happened.

I wasn't even here 5 days and I bought another truck (facepalm). Like I dont have enough stuff to work on.

The starter is missing and the flex plate is broken badly.

1996 SR5 4x4 3.4 Auto.

 

Quality repair.

 

This truck has all the interior options. Way more then mine.
Sport seats, triple switch map/dome light, light ring on ignition, clock, power mirrors.











I might make another build page for this one once I decide what to do with it.
It would nice to have it. I can let one of my friends wheel it when I take mine off roading. Was thinking if I can patch the fame well enough Ill put a flat bed on it.

Its pretty damn rusted out, but the engine is supposed to run and the interior is decent.

If it doesn't Ill just pull a bunch of parts that my truck doesn't have or needs and scrap it.
Got the starter and put it in already but the flex plate is broken too badly. Working on getting another one of those now too.



**Started a build thread for it**
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/1996-sr5-3-4-auto-4x4-rusty-taco-supreme-build.678443/

 

Awesome pictures. Hope all the bullshit you’re going through with the truck starts to smooth out for ya..

 

You are a mechanical genius. Stay safe my friend ...

 

I enjoy this thread.

 

Took your advice about changing plugs and not moving anything on drivers side. You were right. Just changed all of mine.

 

Awesome, glad Im could actual help someone.
I read someone say you have to take the intake manifold, thats just crazy talk. If you have an extension or 2 you'll be fine. I just of done a write up on it when I did mine.

 

I can MIG okay, never really TIG'd, let alone aluminum.

So Im trying to up my skills. Aluminum is kind of a bitch.

 

Hey Taco! I know we touched on this the other day, but with the back end off are you able to better see why the cab and bed are misaligned?
Appreciate ya!

 

@jammer

Not really. I took the bed off to see if the rear rails were bent or the under side of the bed is bent and I couldn't find anything. Everything looked fine. I have no idea what the deal is. I even looked up front to see if its the front of the cab sloping down. You can shim the back of the bed if you want and even shim the front of the cab too.

Also even by loosening the bed up you can't really make the bed closer to the cab. On one side the hole is big enough to have play but on one side its tight, go figure. I guess you could drill it out and have more play.

I just shimmed the rear of the bed and the front of the cab a little (which helped a lot) and from there, it is whatever its going to be. Im tired of dicking around with it.

Has your bed been like that since new?

 

I purchased new, and the gap was normal up until a couple of years ago. That’s why I was thinking the body mounts were the culprit. Like you, losing the bed provided very little adjustment.
How did you “shim” the front / rear?

 

@jammer

I just used a couple fender washers at the middle and back bolts on the bed then used the same washers for the mounts mounts by the fenders and door hinges. I didn't shim the bed bolts by the cab and the cab bolts by the bed.

 

The oil seal came in for the trans. Now just waiting for the Redline MT90.

 

Running a little behind on getting stuff done on my truck.

Had to help my mom out. She was getting a bunch of codes and misfires. Went to the junk yard and got some coil packs. Ended up being the spark plugs. 115k miles and they haven't been changed.

This is why american cars suck. I had to take the entire intake manifold off to pull the coil packs and the plugs. Way to go GM.



The gap is supposed to be .043!

 

First of all, Fuck Pull a Part. No idea why they demand a name and address to buy something there. No idea why I bitched out and just didn't lie. If I didn't just spend all that time pulling CVs off I would of walked out. Never going there again.



Now back to it.

Pulled CV's today. I would really rather have the green shafts. I know where 2 are but they are too far and I can't wait that long. Pretty sure a lot of my vibration is coming from the CV's and I need to change the seals.

At least these are still Toyota, they feel pretty tight and they were $27 each. These should be fine until I can find a manual hub setup.

Also Im wondering if its possible to change the needle bearing too.

The donor




Wasn't too bad in getting off, although I handicapped myself. Someone said the CV nut was 36mm which is what I bought and it was too big but worked anyways without stripping it. Its 35mm, at least on the 4Runner it is.

I didn't bring a hammer or a puller. I just backed off the nut to the end of the threads and hit it with the breaker bar like an idiot. Came out fairly easy. On the first one I took out I bent the metal plate that covers the seal on the inside of the CV when I was prying it out. Had no idea it was there. On the second one I was more careful and it came out fine.


Nice and east coast rusty.


Took a wire wheel to all the rust.


Then primed and painted them



This beauty was next to my donor. Both of these were really damn clean. Its sad they are in the junk yard.


I decided to take the sun visors for my truck.



I stopped off at another junk yard near me to try and find a part for someone.
It started pouring.


Couldn't find the part and was already soaked so I decided to visit my friend Ive been pulling a bunch of parts off of.


I always liked the beep that the 4Runners make when you lock/unlock the door so I took that part to add to my truck.





Still waiting on the CV seals that are on the way. Now I need to find out if the needle bearings can be replaced. I should be putting the CV's in soon.

 

After some research it seems I should replace the needle bearings with the ECGS ones, but on the website it says it wont work with manual hubs which sucks. I don't see how it would interfere. Now IDK what to do.

 

From everything I’ve heard, mostly from a few mechanics I know and trust locally, the needle bearing becomes an issue quicker than usual on stock 3rd gens. The previous generations is more when the suspension is modified.
Are you feeling some vibes up front currently?

 

Lots of vibration. Tires are new and balanced (doesn't mean anything because people can't do their job right half the time). I lined up the driveline the way its supposed to be (still need to get it balanced just to make sure). When I drove it in FWD mode when the rear driveshaft was out I was getting a really bad grinding type vibration at around 50mph in the front diff under acceleration. Also the play in the CV shafts near the diff is massive. The so much play in the drives side that when I wiggle if back and forth oil leaks out.

Im replacing the CV since I have no idea about them. Mine are missed matched at the current moment from the previous owner. I have a green OEM and an aftermarket one. Id rather just have 2 of the same for piece of mind. Im also replacing the seals so I might as well do the bearings. If I had to guess the bearings might be causing the leaks because they're is a crazy amount of play.

Im gonna call ECGS tomorrow and see whats the deal with the manual hubs situation. I would really like to do the converison to manual hubs so I have some way of saving myself in the future if the diff leaks or breaks. Also would be nice to decrease the wear on the CV on long trips. I still have to drive back to LA.

Also Im moving my front ride height on my 5100's back down to the 2nd notch (and removing a leaf out of the dakar's to make a them light duty).