TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

Or what about this one? Might direct the gasses towards the actual sensor better, plus I wouldn't have to weld.
Probably doesn't matter, just overthinking things..
Also seeing a lot of the shields..

 

That's the one I have. The shield isn't necessary.

 

I didn't want to assume so thanks for clarifying. Really like the positive feedback so far. I'm working on a poor man's rebuild on the top end. Wouldn't mind some new coils at 188k

 

Might be a bit lower but can’t recall but there is a voltage level before it kicks in. but I noticed when my 02 was unplugged it did the same and when I finally had it working and only on startup.

 

Anyone replace their motor mounts with solid ones? I was looking at Solid Offroad motor mounts. Aside from some extra vibes any Con's? Eventually I need to replace the stock stuff around the truck.

 

Me. More vibes but eliminates potential failure point.

 

Yep, love it and you can really feel a difference in acceleration. I used the DMZ motor and trans mounts and they fit great. Hear otherwise about other brands

 

I used @Bonzen 's motor mounts and @DTFtacoma 's tranny mount. They work awesome working together in unison. What vibes?

 

Nvh from the engine.

 

Did you folks who replaced with solid motor mounts have a problem with the OEM ones? I have 160k and no issues. From previous experience in the air cooled VW realm, solid mounting the engine/trans is a complete nightmare of vibration, noise, bolts/nuts coming loose, etc. Not worth it on normal applications, even going into the high performance engine world with street cars, until you really have an extreme horsepower combo that you are launching hard with slicks, or a full race car. Granted, a VW has the body mated to the pan, and a Toyota still has a rubber mounted cab. However, the solid mounted engine still would vibrate itself, along with everything else hard mounted to the frame.

I mean really,, are you guys launching the trucks, getting traction in first gear to the point that the engine mount flex is hurting you? Or bouncing at high speed offroad is causing issues with motor/trans flex, like intake or exhaust, or hoses to things that are body/frame mounted?

Seriously, Honestly. Asking if there is a problem being solved, or if you are just chasing the "beef up" and reducing possible failure points?

 

Off road use for me. The oem ones flex a lot when jumping and bouncing around through the whoops. As far as vibes go, it’s really not bad at all on these trucks. Just a slight little rumble through the floor when idling is all I noticed.

Beef up everything and reduce failure points was my goal.

 

Roger that. I think it is a completely different ballgame for a loaded down expo rig that has to drive lots of highway miles to start the offroad adventures. If the offroad is fire roads, trails, and the goal is to be in 4lo to a good destination for the adventure / camping I think rubber is the way to go

 

Rubber still has the potential to fail and then you’re stuck on the trail. Like you said previously, the cab on these trucks is still mounted with rubber isolators, even with my stiffer poly cab mounts the added noise and vibration was very minimal and I only noticed it when at an idle. Not saying everyone should run solid motor and trans mounts, but I feel the benefits far outweigh the cons. Now, solid mount the cab to the frame like I have and yes things get noticeably worse. Still didn’t stop us from driving it 2k miles fully loaded to run the rubicon.

 

your truck and your usage model is in the 1%, don't think you would deny that...

 

True. I was just trying to state that anyone considering doing them should not worry about the noise and vibes that some people claim make it a bad upgrade.

 

For me I have two sets one on my race truck and one on my daily. Got a set on my race truck because race truck. On the daily I wanted something durable with a plan to do rally stuff. The 'solid' motor mounts are lighter than stock mounts and are more efficient at power delivery so the positives outweigh the negative For me.

 

I know. It was a rhetorical question because mine don't cause any notable additional vibes outside of what I already consider normal during regular driving.

I really hate the way the engine mounts for these trucks have been titled "solid" because there is nothing solid about them, they are just much more solidly built over OEM but utilize a hardened polyurethane bushing on each side. So if anything they should be referred to as beefed up polyurethane mounts.

Agree, the rubber ones can and do fail, mine didn't fail, more like induce too much bounce while off-road and my secondary oil pan still had a nice crack to prove it. Those who have 4x4 need be weary if they wheel hard or often because the engine can bounce on the differential, which is in close proximity to the secondary oil pan. Laziness to fix it still have the JB Weld mod in place but I know one day I'll eventually have to.

Rubber us a horrible way to go because of the reasons I noted above.

Agree once again. Lol.

 

Yes, none of the available mounts are truly “solid” like you mentioned. But probably 1000% more solid than oem.

 

I am 1000% convinced at this juncture that OEM bushings and mounts suck and are designed with garbage rubber built to fail. Not even quality. Almost like Made in China junk built by the lowest bidder. You know, sort of like the same crap that GM does on their parts.

 

Interesting. You are in the 1% also, I see the jumping videos in your build thread. You being 1000% convinced of it being bad is a poor reference point for the vast majority. Most of us don't have/use dual shocks/hydro bumps, and go looking for jumps (snowsk8air2 being another) Granted, this thread isn't for the masses, I'll give you that.

I've been running my truck offroad, heavy, dedicated expo rig since 120k miles, now over 160k. Just did a refresh of a bunch of front suspension stuff, and cab mounts, all ball joints / TRE, control arm bushings, axles, seals, etc. Some cracking of cv boots, and I had a torn TRE boot from a pickle fork... but honestly the only 'bad' thing on the truck was the front (radiator) body mount bushings, and the LCA bushings (both of which I knew of ahead of time and they didn't cause any issues at the time of removal... Engine / trans mounts, ball joints, and just about everything else was in better condition than I thought it would be...


edit: It is good to know it isn't a true solid mount. Those are murder on an air cooled v-dub with a hi-po engine. HD engine mounts would be better nomenclature, and I can agree to that being better for extreme duty applications of vibration and impacts.