New England B.S. Thread

Yeah, it's an awesome machine. No way I'd buy a new one for what little I use it, but it still does well for its age. For trail riding, I find I don't even use 4WD all that often.

 

Don't use the drain holes they are there for a reason. I used my bed bolts for the extra tie downs. This link has the part number.
Remove the 2 front bed bolts and insert the anchors (you'll probably need to open up the holes a little bit) then just replace the bolts. Done!

 

Could you please define opening up the holes. Does that mean enlarging them slightly?
I was just at the dealership and I ordered two D-rings at $33 each. going by what you said it does make a lot of sense. Seems to me that I would do great damage to my bed if I use those holes and they won’t be that effective anyway.


Edit: I have a brand new frame also

 

Not a clue. On FB some guy posted about pinning it open but pretty sure he was a third gen. I couldn't find it for second gen.

 

When I had my 2nd Gen, I used those outer 2 drain holes at pilot holes and added 2 tie down points in the front of the bed. I added a backer plate on the bottom side of the bed also to make sure it wouldn't crack or pull through. Take a look at the bottom of the bed, it's not flat, there are raised supports for the composite bed and, if I recall correctly, we had to get creative to get the largest washer we could and avoid the ribs. I also had either a tonneau or a cap on the truck the whole time although I would have done the same with the open bed also. Understanding the holes are there to drain the bed, first time you hit the gas, any water that didn't go down the center drain hole will just go out the back anyways. I used this set up for the better part of a decade and it worked out well. Heaviest thing I had in the bed that needed to be secured was a motorcycle. Otherwise, I just sort of used it as a positioning device.

Rob's suggestion about using the bed bolts will give you a stronger mounting point however, anything that the Tacoma is rated to haul can be managed by a tie down in the drain hole location. Rob's suggestion will allow you to maintain all 3 drain holes if that's a concern. I did like the drain hole rather than the bed bolt because it puts the tie down more forward and more toward the outer edge of the truck which was a more ideal mounting point for me.

 

When I had my 2nd Gen, I used those outer 2 drain holes at pilot holes and added 2 tie down points in the front of the bed. I added a backer plate on the bottom side of the bed also to make sure it wouldn't crack or pull through. Take a look at the bottom of the bed, it's not flat, there are raised supports for the composite bed and, if I recall correctly, we had to get creative to get the largest washer we could and avoid the ribs. I also had either a tonneau or a cap on the truck the whole time although I would have done the same with the open bed also. Understanding the holes are there to drain the bed, first time you hit the gas, any water that didn't go down the center drain hole will just go out the back anyways. I used this set up for the better part of a decade and it worked out well. Heaviest thing I had in the bed that needed to be secured was a motorcycle. Otherwise, I just sort of used it as a positioning device.

Rob's suggestion about using the bed bolts will give you a stronger mounting point however, anything that the Tacoma is rated to haul can be managed by a tie down in the drain hole location. Rob's suggestion will allow you to maintain all 3 drain holes if that's a concern. I did like the drain hole rather than the bed bolt because it puts the tie down more forward and more toward the outer edge of the truck which was a more ideal mounting point for me.

 

Do you have any close up pics showing the texture? I’ve been wanting to linex my 1st gen but the raptor lining looks pretty close
Thanks

put my text into the quote sorry

 

Yeah here are two.

I applied it at 50-55psi and my compressor claims about 6-6.5 cfm at that rate.

It was also my first time spraying with a gun like that, so take it for what it’s worth.
Had to use screen grab because files were too big for my slow ass internet to load




it should be worth noting the silver sorta look some photos have. The paint I got to tint the tintable version had metallic flakes so I’d not be like me and order it right the first time

 

Wow, thank you. It looks great. I think you just helped me decide. I’m going to try the Raptor lining. I’ll be sure to get the black. I know they have a lot that comes with the gun. I don’t think the adhesion promoter is included though. Did you buy it separately?

 

Yeah. I cleaned it out roughly, then sanded it down with a palm sander and some by hand. Then degreased and cleaned everything left. Then I did a coating of acid etching primer just to cover any bare spots or bolts. Then I did two quick coats of adhesion promoter before finally spraying it.

I used 3 bottles but went light on first coat. 4 bottles would allow for 2 nice heavy coats or 3 medium. I have more bottles but felt it was good with 3L worth.

It sounds like a ton of work but our beds are small so it’s really like 1/2-1 day of work with all the dry time added in.

skinny painters tape helps do better straight lines. And if you tip the gun too far it will leak out of a side hole in the cap of the gun they provide. I did use the one that comes with their kit and it was fine. Have nothing to compare it too.

 

See if you can cancel that order. Pretty sure I have some

 

Yes by opening up the holes i mean to drill them out a little bit.

Yes I understand that hitting the gas gets rid if the water but I like to keep the stuff in my bed dry so a tonneau cover or topper and a bed mat keeps 95% of water off of things.

 

The easy trail or the actually Rocky trail?

We did the easy trail up.

 

Thank you for the tips. It looks good with the 3 liters. That’s one thing I was wondering about. The basic kit comes with the 4. I may not do the tailgate. I’m thinking of leaving the liner cover on there because I put stuff on the tailgate top edge really often. So I’m thinking the 4 will be more than enough.

 

Since the Internet sucks at giving consistent answers, hahaha

Truck's at 3500 since last oil change which I think was January. Usually I do 5K miles in about 4 months, but is it 6 months time that the oil is good for?

 

more importantly did you drive short trips or let it sit. If it sat around, no need to change the oil. If you ran short trips, change it to drain any condensation. I have a classic car and it gets an annual oil change. Even then, I’m draining what looks like fresh oil.

 

From mid January to mid March, the usual drive was about 13 miles to work and 13 back, plus nitnoid errands.

Since then, it might sit 2-3 days or just be down the street type stuff. There are times I take it out 2-3 times a week just to cruise for 20-30 out of boredom.

Right now I'm at 3500 since last change. My wife's Rav4 I'm not sure about, but 3 weeks ago she went back to working in the office so I'm not as concerned there.

 

I too have taken to the random drives because wtf else do we have. At least right now I can take the dog to the woods/a crappy beach on the bay that nobody swims at BUT she can swim there and it’s not crowded. But like....shit man this weekend was supposed to be folk fest.

Regular or synthetic? Honestly for like, 30 bucks either way, just do it. You could probably get away without doing the filter this time as long as you do it next time, would make it easier.

 

With the just down the street type stuff, if it were mine, I’d change the oil.

 

Reminds me I still have to install mine. Bought them over a year ago. These are from a Chrysler cargo van I bought online. I wanted to use these with the bed bolts because they will lay flat when not in use unlike the factory ones. If you don’t put anything in the bed that will lay on top of them then the factory ones are good too.