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TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

Discussion in 'Performance and Tuning' started by 12TRDTacoma, Nov 8, 2017.

  1. Aug 1, 2020 at 8:26 PM
    12TRDTacoma

    12TRDTacoma [OP] Powered by Ford, GM, VW, and Mercedes

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    Just wait til you get some mods on it. You'll notice the difference bit by bit as you go and every new mod will make it feel night and day. :D
     
    jkauf[QUOTED] likes this.
  2. Aug 1, 2020 at 8:30 PM
    jkauf

    jkauf Well-Known Member

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    You have a first mod suggestion?

    was think exhaust or air intake
     
  3. Aug 1, 2020 at 8:34 PM
    12TRDTacoma

    12TRDTacoma [OP] Powered by Ford, GM, VW, and Mercedes

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    Great first steps. Open her up, let her breathe! The intake and exhaust are two major bottlenecks on our setup in OE configuration. 2.5" exhaust at minimum from the Y pipe all the way to the back and you have your choice on several style intakes. The hybrid TRD intake has great power potential due to its larger diameter at the MAF. A Qwikchange pulley is also a must. Those are my three hot ticket items to start with. :)
     
    RyanL and jkauf[QUOTED] like this.
  4. Aug 1, 2020 at 8:41 PM
    DocME

    DocME Well-Known Member

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    Pulley and fuel pump. Same money, all the horse power.
     
    Torspd and jkauf[QUOTED] like this.
  5. Aug 1, 2020 at 8:47 PM
    jkauf

    jkauf Well-Known Member

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    When you guys say pulley you are referring to a smaller diameter pulley purchased along with a shorter timing belt. That right?
     
  6. Aug 1, 2020 at 8:51 PM
    DocME

    DocME Well-Known Member

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    Yes. Smaller pulley will turn faster in comparison to the engine and generate more horsepower. The fuel pump will ensure you have enough flow capacity for future mods. Bang for the buck, it can not be beat.
     
  7. Aug 1, 2020 at 8:56 PM
    12TRDTacoma

    12TRDTacoma [OP] Powered by Ford, GM, VW, and Mercedes

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    No timing belt. These trucks don't have timing belts. You are referring to the serpentine belt for the supercharger drive.

    My suggestion is that you stay with a pulley size at or above 2.7 if you stray too far down you will go outside of the blowers efficiency range. And with the setup you have now there is no point in going smaller. The OE size belt will get you by for those sizes.

    All of these supporting mods make for a happier blower. Intake, Exhaust, qwikchange pulley, and fuel pump, and Roush tensioner would be my recommendations. All information for them is on Page 1. :thumbsup:
     
    jkauf[QUOTED] likes this.
  8. Aug 1, 2020 at 9:37 PM
    JacksonTacoma

    JacksonTacoma Well-Known Member

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    2015 S/C TRD Pro
    Magnuson SC, 2.5 pulley, hptuner, FPR mod, AFE Intake, URD longtube headers, JFR Y-pipe, 255 Deatschwerks, 76mm TB, Banks 3" exhaust, cam gears
    So, many pages to catch up on. It's been awhile, hope everyone is doing well.
     
    mr.trd, henryp, 420taco and 5 others like this.
  9. Aug 2, 2020 at 12:03 AM
    RyanL

    RyanL Well-Known Member

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    :wave:
     
    mr.trd likes this.
  10. Aug 2, 2020 at 3:22 PM
    aboftofbeam

    aboftofbeam Well-Known Member

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    S/C, UCON, 2.8 pulley, bedrug, Crashnburn's ultimate headlight/tailight upgrade, Moroso oil-catch can, soundproofing, speaker and H/U replacements, bed stiffeners, SHMELLFAB Sliders, ICON AAL.
    Continuing issue... Cold start P0302 - Cylinder 2 misfire that clears once the engine is warm. The cold soak and clearing when the engine is warm is the part that is really making my head hurt.

    Here is the issue:
    On cold start, typically where the engine has cold soaked overnight in the mid 50's or colder, when I start up I get the precode CEL, rough idle, and lean (expected) at the y-pipe (15-16) where my AFR gauge is. If I shutdown and restart before the engine is warm, the hard code comes in for P0302.

    Once the engine come up to ~150-160 coolant temp, I can shut down and restart and the engine runs smooth, no misfire and no code. Sometimes it will simply smooth out on its own once it is warm.

    The truck: 2012 DBCB Offroad V6.

    Timeline: Bought the truck in 2014 with 12k miles. Mostly stock build until 2018.

    Nov 2018 - Installed S/C and UCON (45k Miles)

    Jan 2019 - Started getting P0302 on cold starts. On Gadgets recommendation, installed new MAF.

    Feb 2019 - Did some work with Scott, he verified the problem, reviewed logs. I had a copy of UTUNE then, but have since lost it to computer crash...
    Scott recommended pulling all plugs, doing a compression test. Admittedly, I still have not done this. Between travel for work and deployment I have been able to mostly avoid cold morning starts....

    Nov 2019 - Installed Fuel pump upgrade. Added Barsleak Head Gasket mix into coolant to rule out a small head gasket leak into Cyn 2.

    June 2020 - Trying to find the easy way out - Replaced Nr 2 spark plug (the old plug was clean), Coil, and Fuel Injector. While I had the S/C off, installed a 2.8 quick change pulley, did the jet mod, and calibrated the boost bypass valve. Replaced several vacuum hoses and added clamps to all of the vacuum hoses that did not have them.

    This morning (50k miles)- Camping in Julian and a fairly cool night. Damn misfire when I started up, then cleared after the engine came up in temp.

    So - Any thoughts.

    I'm pretty sure a compression test is in the list - any recommendation on a kit. There are about 500 kits on Amazon and I am pretty sure most of them are the same kit from China with different branding.

    Smoke test is probably on the list too.

    Also - Anyone know if there is a download for UTUNE or do I need to go back to Scott. Google did not provide :(. Trying to avoid talking to Scott until I do what he asked me to do. :)
     
  11. Aug 2, 2020 at 3:37 PM
    Lucario Runner

    Lucario Runner Resident Truck/SUV racer

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    Unplug ucon under same conditions and see if it reappears.
     
    Torspd, TRON and aboftofbeam like this.
  12. Aug 2, 2020 at 3:41 PM
    81Trekker

    81Trekker Well-Known Member

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    My concern is this... I can do an LS swap for about $10k (I would use a L33 5.3l -all aluminum 5.3)

    I fear the SC route is gonna end up close to that when done correctly and it still won’t make the power of an L33 with a cam and tune
     
  13. Aug 2, 2020 at 3:47 PM
    henryp

    henryp Well-Known Member

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    Not unreasonable. I think fab skills And lack of plug and play is what stops lots of us. Maybe you can lead the way. LS swap and keep 4x4 + ABS,etc.
     
  14. Aug 2, 2020 at 4:49 PM
    TRON

    TRON Well-Known Member

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    1GR-FE swap LS = No more 4x4
     
    12TRDTacoma[OP] likes this.
  15. Aug 2, 2020 at 4:53 PM
    81Trekker

    81Trekker Well-Known Member

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    Too many to remember
    I don’t follow
     
  16. Aug 2, 2020 at 5:05 PM
    TRON

    TRON Well-Known Member

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    I don’t think anyone has ever installed a LS engine into a 2nd Gen and kept the stock 4x4 options. Just not enough space for the transfer case to line up properly.
     
    12TRDTacoma[OP] likes this.
  17. Aug 2, 2020 at 5:22 PM
    81Trekker

    81Trekker Well-Known Member

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    I’ve already taken a bunch of measurements and there is plenty of room with an oil pan mod and some sheet metal massaging. The second gens have a lot of room under the hood/trans tunnel, especially compared to some of the first gen SR5 pickups
     
    henryp likes this.
  18. Aug 2, 2020 at 5:29 PM
    TRON

    TRON Well-Known Member

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    Sounds like you got it all figured out:popcorn:
     
    MightyMouseTom and Norton like this.
  19. Aug 2, 2020 at 5:50 PM
    12TRDTacoma

    12TRDTacoma [OP] Powered by Ford, GM, VW, and Mercedes

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    I don't know man. I do agree with you but I don't. The swap is a huge headache of it's own but a blower puts you into what,

    $5,400 for the blower
    $200 for a Qwikchange pulley
    $140 for the Roush tensioner (if that)
    $70 for the LFP double bearing roller, some mod time into that to make that work - free, the
    $50 Gates RPM belt
    $50 NGK Ruthenium plugs
    $60 HP Tuners tune by @JustDSM
    $450-500(ish) intake and exhaust work
    $525 FIC 650 injectors (totally optional)
    $200 Mightytacoman cam gears

    -Not including injectors you are looking at an additional $1200 give or take a $100-200 for a fully set up supercharged 1GR built to handle some solid abuse.

    That's about $6,590 or $6,600 for a full plug and play, ready to start, 300+ HP to the wheel 4x4 (if you have it) Tacoma without having to cut this, massage this, splice this, weld this and bang on this to make it all work.

    An LS swap sounds incredibly tempting, but at the same time this is just so much easier.

    And yeah sure 300HP doesn't sound like a lot, but these trucks are no slouch at all. Back when I was considerably slower and way out of the superchargers efficiency range I was pulling on and finally keeping toe to toe in the end with a 6.4L scat pack Charger. Not too bad for a boosted V6 at all. ;)
     
    henryp likes this.
  20. Aug 2, 2020 at 5:51 PM
    henryp

    henryp Well-Known Member

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    That would be awesome

    :popcorn::popcorn::popcorn::popcorn::popcorn::popcorn::popcorn::popcorn:
     

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