need wiring advice

so i have this coleman power chill cooler thing. it runs off 12v or 110v. i have the 110v in my txpro bed but want to add a 12v outlet

i was thinking i can use this

$15 RoyPow AC to DC Converter Power Supply Transformer 2A/24W AC/DC Adapter 110V/120V to 12V Car Cigarette Lighter Socket, Not for Pump, Inflator

https://www.amazon.com/Converter-Tr...HA6ZF44GDSA&psc=1&refRID=ZHJSVQCC2HA6ZF44GDSA

or i want to wire an actual 12v cigarette style outlet in the bed. i have seen many do it and i know i should run a power wire from the battery to the back i plan on really only running that currently for trips so im thinking i can get away with a switch like this

Meikuler DC 12-24V Cigarette Lighter Socket Prewired Panel, QC 3.0 Dual Interface USB Charger(with LED Display Voltmeter) + USB Power Socket Outlet + On/Off Waterproof Switch

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07WVQ4NKD/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A2F06A1DTVXHL7&psc=1

and since it has an inline fuse and a switch that i can turn off when not in use i won't need to add a fuse block


any insight peoplesssss

 

You need to check the draw (amps / watts) for AC & DC of the Coleman deeding on which was you want to go ac>dc / dc>ac

 

Determine the power the “cooler thing” draws. It will be in amps and or watts. If the converter, wire and fuse is under the cooler max draw then That is 50% of the issue.

It sound like you intend to take power off the 110v power in the bed, check its max power rating. I have an OEM 110v bed outlet and it’s rated at something like 400 watts max with engine running. Its good for charging an iPhone or an emergency light. It is not like your home 110v outlet; i.e., it cannot run a hairdryer.

 

The converter will work but it's a crap way to go about it. You have a 12v DC system that is being converted to 110v AC for that outlet. Then you are converting it back to 12v. Lots of power loss.

Your panel is a much better idea and several people here have gone that route. I don't know anything about that particular manufacturer though. There are a couple of threads on the mod.

 

I've read about adding a 12v on the bed in the cubby or above the 110v. im thinking just adding 12v but i DONT want to add a fuse block for one outlet in the bed. that 12voutlet combo in the link has an inline fuse. wouldn't that inline fuse be enough??

the manual says POWER REQUIRMENTS: 9.5 to 14.4 volts DC, 4 amps @12v DC nominal

 

bump with the new info de-gens

 

I ran wire from the battery and used a circuit breaker at the battery and a small fuse panel in the bed cubby.



Here's the install from my build thread
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...ld-and-ramblings.452204/page-22#post-20105835

 

If you are going to run it on DC (good choice like said converting back& forth wast power)
If you run #14 stranded wire from the battery withe a 7.5A in line fuse at the battery end and keep the length of the wire under 16' you should be fine
I would not recommend a auto reset type fuse for this app. it could cause a fire

 

The first one RoyPow is only rated at 2A.
If your cooler says it needs 4A, that one won’t work.

The second one with the switch, says it is 10A.

 

so go with the switch i want but replace the 10amp fuse with with an inline blade fuse of 7.5 amps near the battery ?

 

Sorry I guess I missed something what switch?
It would help a lot if you draw a diagram / schematic

 

Down for the night, wild land fire on call

 

Keep safe buddy.
Hope you all get it out quickly.

 

speaking of the Amazon switch in the main post