TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

And I’m not saying it’s impossible either. If you have the means and know how than L33 T56 that bad boy! Installing a TRD SC is too easy. Some Baja racers have done an LS3 swap and linked a transfer case. But these racing tacomas are completely custom by that point and nothing close to stock.

 

It is mostly the weight of the larger tires. That's a lot of weight on each corner that you have to spin. To have the same weight just static we be less of a problem. If that helps. "Side note, 6-8 beers in on a hit ass day" maybe someone here can ckearify better if needed.

 

This for the truck getting the full JD Fab love right now? Or another project?

 

Thinking of doing a sightly smaller pulley and fuel pump upgrade. Objectives are approx 25 hp gain, or whatever is reasonable, while maintaining reliability and engine life. After searching this and other threads it seems feasible but wanted to run it by you guys.
Would I send my ECU to @JustDSM after and inform him of the mods?

 

Yes for the truck I’m currently building which also happens to be one of my best friends... he’s a patent attorney that told me to build him a bad ass taco

 

Gotcha. Well my experience is: TRD blower and injectors, 2.8 pulley, intake, exhaust and tune and honestly it runs great and pulls hard even with thE 37’s. As @12TRDTacoma mentioned you can go a little smaller on the pulley, slightly bigger injectors, and cam gears and make a little more power out of it without scratching the surface of the Toyota reliability. Plus you keep the stock dash, 4x4 and all that good stuff. For me, it’s easy and reliable power thats “plug and play”

That said, you guys have all the skills and tools to do any sort of swap and like you said, keep the 4x4. The question is, is it worth the effort for what he wants and will use?

 

Speaking of lighter rotational mass with wheels and tires... might as well throw in a lightweight flywheel and really get the revs moving!

 

2.8 and the fuel pump as well as the FPR mod too boost reference the fuel pressure regulator is a perfect for you to make those gains, retune to gain the most of new air intake management but you are solid otherwise!

Again @81Trekker all of the mods I listed in my previous few posts to you will get you reliable Toyota turn key power and reliability without compromising the integrity of both the cab and the frame immediately speaking. I know you guys run a tight ship as far as a badass shop goes, so I have no doubt the frame and cab would be taken care of, but combine these mods with a higher geared rear end if running larger then OE sized 31s or 32s and you will get some really nice gains all while hauling 5000+ lbs no problem.

Granted, the heavier the truck the slower it will be, but if the owner has no issues with the additional weight and is his toy fun vehicle, up the ante by running some additional HP with E85 fueling to get you some extra pony power to compensate for the lack of weight diet the truck would have assuming it will be on the heavy side. This will, however, limit him to the type of fueling stations he will have access to.. that in which case you can run dual HP Tuners tune files one which is built for fueling, the other for E85 specific when it is race day. All it would take at that point is educating the owner of the truck on how to flash switch between his two custom built tunes and he is in the game.

Assuming he runs E85 and he nets 30 HP out of it he would be close to 330HP at the wheels, which is 400HP at the crank. That is the same amount of base horsepower that an all stock GM LS2 engine has all while offering that legendary Toyota reliability (with some closer interval maintenance of course to keep things running tip top).

Bear in mind, there are some other additional mods you can throw in there to help aid in the supporting mods game (NST lightweight pulleys, FIC 650 injectors are mandatory for E85) but he is pretty set otherwise!

 

If for some reason you do choose and LS, and want something a little less common place for the drivetrain, look up https://rsgear.com/index.php/

They do an AWD version tcase for the T56 Magnum. Stout!


Also available for the 4.0/1GR.

 

I had this same issue with my SpeedHut gauges. The issue is on cold start you will get above 13.6 to start the warm up cycle of the gauge, on a warm start you will only get 13v this will not start the warm up cycle and the gauge will not work.

My solution was to do the alternator voltage booster mod to up the voltage on a warm start. I would only do this if you have an AGM battery.

SpeedHut also offered to reprogram the gauge to start the warm up cycle at a lower voltage.

 

Just installed my 2.8 quick change pulley. I was worried about the install but turned out to be a breeze.



I also feel your pain on the dirty engine bay, mines gonna need a good cleaning soon.

 

Why didn’t @DOUBLLD go that route with rs gears? He went all out on fabrication to try and get that beast 4x4 capable. And from what I remember he didn’t due to fitment issues. I could be wrong.

 

HELP.

I started up my truck this morning and noticed my supercharger was whining at idle. All the vacuum lines seemed to be in place and coolant was fine. I couldn’t really tell in the short minute I took to check it out but it seemed like the noise was coming from the front of the SC. The belt also looked fine. The truck drove like normal on my way to work. I did drive a little harder than normal yesterday, hitting redline a couple times, but nothing too wild. Any suggestions or similar experiences?

99K on the truck
SC installed around 60K
Belt swapped around 75K for gator belt
Same coolant as when initially installed
URD 2.8 press on pulley

 

Bad bypass valve.

 

Any way to test this to see if that's the problem without having to remove it?

 

There is but I wouldn't bother. If you are boosting at idle then that indicates the valve has failed shut and is allowing the rotors to create boost all the time. To replace it you will have to remove the blower to do so.

 

Am I okay to drive around like this until I can get the part and get it fixed?

 

You'll be fine, you'll just be boosting all the time. Try to limit driving it far if possible because you don't want that thing getting hot from the constant boost.

 

Thanks for that info.
@nudavinci64 mentioned that too, sounds like that's my issue.
Looks like I have some searching to do.
Btw, how much did that cost you out the door?
Seems like talking with Speedhut may be a good option too.

 

Has anyone replaced their radiator with an aftermarket and electric fans? I’m planning to do this but it would delete the radiator portion of the trans cooler. I have an off-road so I have external trans cool; is that ok to cool the trans on its own?