2020 tacoma sr5 non jbl wiring diagram

I hear ya. Things are getting serious now, hit the grinder for the brackets on the back of the bed tonight...but I got the wires re run at least.

 

That 4awg looks mighty small in that picture lol

 

@destin_meeks .. after working with 4 gauge it sure does! I split the 4 gauge at the distribution block which I will mount on the back of the sub box . I had that same wire in the last truck so it worked out well. I also had to do the DIY seat jackers until I get the nicer ones. I needed to come up about a half inch in the back

At least I’m still making progress and have sound again.

 

I will hunt around for a dedicated Sub amp that is less than 14 inches wide and fit that one back on the sub box. I'll use the 5 channel just for the corners.

 

That will be super easy to find. Most monoblock amps in the 600w range will be like 8x8 or so. The entry rockfords are good and cheap and would let you stay the same across brands

 

My buddy is offering up A Rockford T600 2 channel amp for about $250.00 not a bad price but I think I may be better off with a monoblock

 

Yeah you can get a good monoblock with good power for $200 or less. Alpine S-series is good for the money

 

Looks like I’m going to have to start with the back seat spacers first .. pretty tight when seat is down without the sub even in.

 

Of course the rear vents leak when it rains.. awesome!

silicone and gorilla waterproofing.

 

@destin_meeks Not trying to hijack the thread but I see you're pretty active in audio threads. I've got a few questions for ya hoping you can help me out. I'm installing a Rockford Fostgate p300 (sub and amp in one) into my non-JBL sound system.

I've got my speaker wiring routed to passenger side kicker panel but don't know what to tap into. My front pass speaker wiring is blue and grey (pictured). There's 2 blues (one the same gauge as the door speaker and one thicker entangled with a green one) and 1 grey in my kicker panel (thicker than the door speaker) (all pictured).

I'm trying to avoid taking the head unit apart if I can save it. At this point just need to know which is the right blue to tap into and if I need an LOC or if it's just straight up plug (splice) and play. Would i i need a fuse by the battery if the sub/amp already has 2 10amp fuses?
And lastly, the audio output harness on the sub comes with RCA cables each of which has 2 wires, a solid one and striped one. Do I need to tap one color into the front right speaker and the other to the left speaker?

On mobile so excuse me for any grammar errors. Thank you.

 

The wires you have pulled out in the door sill are not your front speaker wires. They are in one of the connectors up in the kick panel.

this photo is from a 2017, so the connector may honestly be different in a 2020.
Also. There are markings on this picture for DIFFERENT uses. NOT for speakers. This is simply a picture so you can get an idea of where to look.



The accurate part of the picture is the connector where the red circles are. But hose circles are not the speaker wires. But in that same connector should be the blue and grey wires you need.

As for the rest of your questions
Yes, you need a fuse at the battery
No, you don’t need a LOC

but you do need some more speaker wire. You will cut the RCA tips off (back a few inches so you can use them for other projects) and splice on new speaker wire. Then run that speaker wire to the connector shown above.

for the input harness, the one with the strip is the negative and the other is the positive. No need to wire to passenger and driver speakers. Just wire one and you’re good

 

Thank for the swift reply. I appreciate you. I've got everything down except the speakers. I've already lost sunlight so I'll continue this tomorrow morning.

For those blue and grey wires by the kicker panel, do I just peel the tape back and tap in before the connector?

 

That's usually the easiest.. If you have a little room those new inline taps work pretty well.

 

Thank you. Forgot to quote @destin_meeks in my previous reply. Would you happen to know what gauge those wires are? I think the speaker wiring I got is too thick along with the wire taps.

 

You can get reducers to make up for the differences in wire gauge also.. I think they are like 16 or so gauge.. not all that beefy

 

I’d guess 18awg off the top of my head. Thick enough for a military splice, I know that

 

I've got everything except the remote turn-on wire hooked up. I'm not getting power to the sub at the moment. Could that be it? And if so, where does that hook up? Im grounded on bare metal, got power from the battery with an in-line fuse. I thought signal from the speakers would help it turn on.

 

Make sure that switch is set to “audio” and not REM

 

Only got to mess with it a bit today. No luck. Tried the switch settings on the sub. Went over all of my wiring but still no power. Maybe I do need to wire in the remote turn on. I'll figure it out tomorrow. Thanks for your help though!

 

do you have a multi-meter? It’s going to be really hard to troubleshoot without one