3rd Gen Lift Kit Advice

Looking for a little advice to make sure i'm heading in the right direction for my 3rd gen lift kit. Right now I am running stock wheels and tires with no weight in the back.
Eventually I hope to have a bed rack with a RTT and 285/70/R17 tires.
The lift build I am looking at right now is as follows

Bilstein 6112 with coils in the front
Bilstein 5160 RR in the back
Icon RXT Leaf Pack
SPC Adjustable UCA's

Alignment and Regear once the bigger tires are on

Wondering if there's anything else I may need and if this will fit my needs for bigger tires and the eventual addition of a bed rack and RTT. Thanks!

 

Following

 

385’s are kinda big. Good luck

 

I have that same lift (minus the UCA's) with 235/85r16's and I am not sure you will get enough lift to clear 385/70r17 tires. Here is a side pic:


I am running the RTX leafpack as stage 1 and the 6112's on the second from top notch. This gives me ~1.5-1.8" of lift over stock. The lift has been on for about 7 months so any sag should be accounted for. The tire size your proposing will be ~6.5" taller than what you see here and ~5" wider than stock. Also, you'll probably need a Cab Mount Chop mod to prevent front rub. I suggest looking over build pages for others that have put tires of the size you want to see what they ran into and what lift components worked for them....a few hours of research will save you serious money in the long run.

Good luck

 

First thing your going to need is a sawzall and a shit load of blades to run 38” tires

 

Agree with the other comment that your tire size is quite aggressive. Be prepared to cut and hammer alot to get out of the way.

Other than that, racks and RTT's can be heavy. Can the leaf pack you chose hold that constant load without sagging?

May want to look into any extended bump stops

Edit: also do you NEED 38's. I've seen plenty of rigs go through some real rough stuff on 33's and 35's.

 

My bad, I fat fingered that. Looking to run 285/70/R17 on the 4Runner pro rims. Editing original post.

 

Ahh much more reasonable lol. My original post should still be valid. Maybe some extended bump stops, and double check your leafs can take that extra weight long term without sagging. My RTT has been on my OEM leafs for 4 months...I took it off the other day and they are permanently de-arched now. But the OEM ones are known to suck.

Q for everyone else....are people still doing diff drops? I've been seeing that's not really recommended anymore until your specific truck experiences weird vibes.

 

Those are about an inch taller than my 235/85r16 so should fit fine with the lift you described. Again, you may want to check for anyone that had any front rub issues.

The Icon RTX comes with the AAL to go to stage 2 or 3 so it should accommodate any added RTT/Rack weight with a small config change.

 

Here's a pic with a full camping gear loadout. Again, the I am running the RTX at stage one. The full lift rides spectacular and handles offroading extremely well.

 

Your setup looks great! Any reason you went with stage 1 over stage 2?

 

Looking at adding in a ubolt flip with super bumps.

 

For day to day I felt the stage one rode better. Stage 2 is pretty stiff for my liking and felt the compromise was justified since I camp 4 or 5 times a year vs just trail running and around town stuff. I get a little sag with ~400lbs in the bed but not bad and the ride is terrific.

 

stage two rides like ass

 

also I wouldn't go by icons weight table for the rxt leafs, they say 200 pounds constant load for stage two, well I can attest that when I was on stage two 200 pounds didn't make the ass end sag at all. More like 600 to actually level it out. Riding around town on stage two with no weight in the bed was horrid.

 

This is true. I'd only run the stage 2 if I had a shell/camper setup that pushed my loadout above 500lbs and the shell/camper stays on the truck full time.

 

Gotcha, good to know. So I think the icon rtx set at stage one and the 6112’s set at 3/4 should cover what I’m looking to do and not completely break the bank.

 

Diff drop kits are for cv angles not driveline vibrations