Im having brake problems?

So im changing my Brake rotors every 6 months or so and i always thought that it was because im buying duralast rotors from autozone. but when i mention to my friends that im changing them so often they said "bro even duralast should last youa good 2 to 3 years" he said it might be that your pads always touching your rotors causing them to heat up and warp and now that i think about it before i changed them i noticed that the pads were touching the rotor i could spin them but i felt the a noticible difference in the spin after i removed the pads. but how do i fix this?

 

I had this problem on an '02 Taco work truck. Once I switched to Ceramic pads, the problem went away and they brakes lasted a lot longer.

 

Pistons in the caliper stuck?

 

Well, rotor "warping" really isn't a warping of the rotor, unless you're riding the brakes non-stop. The warping effect is caused mostly due to uneven pad transfer, leaving a high spot on the rotor where material has stuck. Once this happens, it only gets worse.

The most likely causes of this seems to be either the wrong type of pads, or the way you're driving.

If you've been using cheap pads, you might want to try to higher ones that are rated for longer duration, as they should have a higher heat rating before they start to break down. Some lifetime pads seem to be on the "too hard" side and can eat rotors, but a mid-high grade pad should be pretty good.

The other option is how you're driving. Hard, long breaking is usually a sure way to get the warping effect (basically the same thing as above, but this one is due to you overheating the pads causing them to get to their "melting" point, and not the pads being too soft)

There's always improper break in of the pad/rotor as well, but since you're only seeing this after 6 months, I'd likely point towards one of the other options.

 

Rear bpv arm not raised to compensate for lift?

 

Dealer rotors and pads. I had the same problem on my second gen. The rotors would warp within a month. I have had dealer rotors for a month, and this has been up and down off road trails in Montana. I have locked them up a 70mph... I have put these breaks through hell and they are still strong.

I have even taken it through a drive thru car wash right after a 400 miles on the highway and they didn't warp! That is a killer by the way, get cheap rotors nice and warm and then blast them with cold water.

 

How do your rotors look? Are they smooth? Are they scored up? Have you had them tested for thickness?

Before you put a new set of pads on, you should check the condition of your rotors. If they are rough & scored up, you need to have them 'turned'. Also, check them for warping.

Look at your brake pads - are they wearing evenly? Are the inners & outters wearing the same?

Disc brake shoes will be 'up againest' the rotor but without any pressure to cause minor resistance. The rotor will spin more freely with the calipers off.

Are you installing the shoes properly? On the 1st gen trucks, they are 'floating' calipers. Is your caliper pin clean & greased?

 

if its a first gen i have some Toyota pads for free if you pay me shipping, seriously i need them gone.

it could be a sticking caliper although it does not sound like it it could be a culprit, however i hate to say but you get what you pay for, if i had my OE rotors id give em to you too, but honestly I reccomend toyota parts, pricey, but worth it usually

 

I too have had warping problems ever since I got my 1996 4WDTacoma (new). I had always been going to an independent brake shop. I decided to buy slotted/drilled rotors and cermanic pads (from the internet) and put them in myself. On my first 3 tanks of gas my mileage was down. I checked the rotors and they were quite hot. I hadn't checked the rotors before, so I don't know how hot they got before. I had a garage check out the brakes and they said they were moving fine. Last night I put the old pads back in and the rotors were quite hot after a 4 mile dirve. Any ideas?
Thank you,
Mike

 

Metallic and semi-metallic pads are very hard on rotors, but are best for towing. They fade the least under heavy braking. Ceramics are the best overall, and don't chew up rotors as bad.
Don't buy cheap rotors. They have less metal in them and are more prone to warp. Brembo and factory rotors are best.
Cross drilled and slotted rotors are a good way to have a catastrophic brake failure. The holes and slots are starting points for heat checks and cracks. Racers use these because they have some benefits, but they inspect them far more thouroughly and often then we will. They also replace them more often too.
Factory brakes may be expensive, but after 2 years and 55k mine are in awesome shape. I am by no means easy on my brakes. I tow, off-road, and stop fast.

 

Thank you for the information. With your information I did some experimenting. I have lifetime brakes (and hot rotors) on 2 vehicles, and factory (rotor not hot) on one. I will change my ways.
Mike

 

Wow, I rarely have to replace rotors. I have to do front brakes on a truck about every 3 or 4 years (not much towing). I just check them and resurface as needed.

 

Do you typically run fully loaded or towing a trailer w/out brakes? If so, the rotors you're installing might not be strong enough for what you do with your truck. Otherwise, lots of good information on this thread already.

 

This

 

y'all should keep in mind that everyone has different driving habits..

i was getting about 6 weeks out of stock rotors and pads before they started "warping". ...but i drive in atlanta traffic all the time.

 

Space Wrangler- What are you using that works better?
Mike