How to: Deleting ADD system

What size bolts is it for the ADD tube to the clamshell? I'm really not wanting to use the E-torx bolts and want the bolts on hand when I do the swap. I picked up everything to do the swap minus snap rings and bolts in a pile of parts I bought.

 

Probably an m10 or m12 x1.25 like most of the bolts. Take on out and check the threads I’m sure it’ll be fine with 3 for temporary.

 

K, I've read this thread like 10 times and I still can't get a clear picture.

CAN I JUST UNPLUG MY ADD ONCE IT'S IN 4WD HI AND THEN FORGET ABOUT IT?!

I am so, so close to doing a FJ case swap but still having to utilize the ADD using a switch intimidates me. I DON'T want to splice more wires than I have to (other than the 4hi, 4lo lights spliced directly to get the dash lights to work.)

Yes, the whole point of this thread is to use the fj axle tube instead of our wretched add tube; but is it 100% REQUIRED to be able to rely soley on the FJ Case to complete the selection of 2hi-4hi-4lo?!

 

you sure can. Why even have the actuator at that point then. You can probably sell it to a member if yours is working and get a nice chunk of change.

 

So not sure if anyone has had this happen. Have to take everything apart to get a better idea of what happened. Pretty sure shock loading had to do with it.

climbing an obstacle and cv busted causing the torque to unload on the diff tube is my only guess. Not sure if the shaft is gone but pretty sure.

 

looks like my original Tacoma tube when I got hung up. The housing is cast so it will shatter.

 

Yeah, I guess I thought the fj tube was suppose to prevent this a bit. Shock loading is a bastard! Will have to baby it a bit more. But like I said, think the perfect storm of events allowed for the cv to pop out causing the driveline to unload. Diff and diff tube took it all. Expensive weekend but meh, pay to play.

More carnage.

 

The front of the 2nd gen tacoma platform is plenty strong........as long as you don't shock load it, or bind/lock a tire and try to force it through something. Also, if you swap out to RCVs that shock loading and any associated stresses will always get transferred to the ADD and differential since the RCVs become the strongest part of the front drive train.

 

crawl box is good to limit shock load. In my case I had the front locked in double low with the front wheel bound up on a rock, and the add shaft is the weak link. At $300 it’s still cheaper than replacing a ring gear though!

 

yeah. Was just very surprised it busted the FJ tube and shaft prior to the cv going. Regardless, a learning experience non the less. Pretty sure the diff will need a rebuild and I’m thinking the worst will be that the locker and gears are gone.

 

If you had stock CVs in I doubt you damaged the diff.....but if you hear any weird humming at all definitely get it checked out. First thing that failed on mine after shock loading was the OEM ADD....then I installed the FJ tube and had some weird humming coming from the drive train but couldn't figure out what it was. Less than 1500mi later the diff locked up completely....I got seriously lucky it didn't send me off the road or into someone else when it did.

 

Well, I blew the stock cv and tie rod. Went to back down the obstacle and lost 4wd. Thought I needed to lock the front, and still had no power to the front. The fj tube broke then too as there was a bunch of fluid that spilled out at that time.

Also had to drive home, and wasn’t able to disassemble my cvs to keep the hubs in place, so sent her home with everything blown. Was going to get a tow, but was looking at $1200 so figured I would take a gamble on the survival of anything. Had a bit of fluid in the diff (mixed with water) but it didn’t lock up....3 hours on the highway...

 

That look ugly and $$$$ I go a lot of placed off road but I baby my Jalopy little harder to get some parts without shipping from OZ

 

@tetten and @6 gearT444E what are your thoughts on this. I am thinking the shaft in the diff tube broke before the axle and tie rod went. There was no fluid coming out of the diff when repairing. Later when driving away, the shaft pushed through the housing. I’m thinking.


I’m trying to understand the shock loading and what not. Trying to come away from this with a bit of knowledge to apply to my driving. I don’t think I was driving particularly hard. Perhaps this was a previous shock load, but this was the second trip out. My only other thought is my truck is a pig.

Also, this shock loading is greatly reduced with the front unlocked. With the rebuild I’m debating on removing the locker instead of buying a new one.

Just trying to come away with this with a bit more knowledge.

 

I'm a bit confused. Why would your tierod be damaged in the melee? Typically a driveline failure is totally separate from non-driveline components unless it's physically caught up in the failure.

On the surface it seems excessive droop could fail tierod, cv, and ifs housing all at once. It's too weird it all broke simultaneously.

 

That was my initial thought. Too much droop causing the cv to pop out. Seems like it popped before. Super weird.

 

The CV pulling on the housing at that angle would also put a bending moment that'd stress the tube. This droop would also be rough on the rack and tierod especially combined with that steered angle. Just check it out closely.

 

nice

 

Part of me thinks it was a lot of events that made the perfect storm for this to happen. Broken shock allowing too much droop, tie rod going allowing for droop and extreme cv angle. I don’t know. Just trying to figure it out to try to not let it happen again.

 

Shock was broken?! If the shock was broken allowing the excessive droop I'd venture that's your storm and the root cause. Think of the bind and stress when all that is maxed out past the allowed misalignment angles and being applied low range torque. Not good.