The 5.29 Mega Thread!!

I was going to say that the seal housing on the arb lockers block half of the diff breather when you have an arb so it could get blocked easier than the stock carrier, so maybe pull the fill plug and see if anything comes out. If the fill plug comes out and it starts leaking let it slow down to drips and seal it back up. I would check the fill and drain for tightness, clean the area and retry a shorter distance to see where it’s coming from. When the cv shaft is pulled out the c clip has a sharp edge and if you drag it over the seal it can tear it.

 

I do, but it's performing as designed, so I don't think it's the air line.

 

Appreciate your help man. Going to try the plug right now and see where that gets me.

 

@Texoma

 

The locker would still work, but if the diff is overfilled more pressure can build because the seal housing in the arb blocks the diff breather if it’s not clocked correctly. So let’s say someone left a chuck of sealant right there and it pushes into the breather( I highly doubt it) in combination with the overfill kinda far-fetched but possible it could.

 

I'm having this exact same issue with my 5.29's. Oscillating hum between 60-70mph. Took it back to the installer and he said it was nothing to worry about, and is most likely due to the increased rotational speed of the driveline components. Ended up shimming my diff and doing a carrier bearing drop to minimize angles for the driveshaft, but the hum is still there...

 

Nitro or Revolution?

 

Nitro

 

If the diff was even slightly over filled, gear oil will travel up the breather. Once it comes back down the breather, some will want to escape between the hose and hard pipe. Even just a tint bit of oil will make it look like a huge mess. I suggest that you do 2 things.
1. Make sure that the breather connection on top the diff is in good shape(still connected)
2. Open the fill plug when the diff is cool and drain any excess fluid out.
Once this is done, thoroughly clean the diff and it should not leak again after this. If it does, there may be an issue that you will have to find where the leak is coming from.

 

Thanks @Anderson5290 ! I saw the E14 socket on a list and thought that is definitely something I don't have lying around. Good reminder. And you're saying with the spindle not attached to the LCA you can just pry the CV axles out of the diff and remove it? You didn't have to disconnect the tie-rods? That's an amazing tip! Thanks!

 

I like to cruise at 70-80mph on the highway. Would 4.88's be better suited for my driving? No added weight except towing a 18.5ft bass boat every weekend. 285/70/17's coming soon hopefully. Future proofing my truck would be great, but looking at real world driving habits at the moment.

 

This is what it should look like with the diff out. Notice only the driver side CV is out. ADD tube disconnected, and harness disconnected from add actuator.

 

Fuckin eh. That picture's worth a thousand words. Thanks

 

so even with a 6mt 5.29s are recommended for 35s? I live in canada so the highway speedlimits are 60mph and no higher. looking at a calculator the rpms will be around 2200rpm in 6th. my turbo 1st gen will lug 1500 rpm all day on the highway with 35s even up hills but from what ive seen this engine needs the rpm. seems like most people with 5.29s are autos

 

Here is a formula to find out your specific vehicle. Use the "To determine gear rpm change" formula.

 

Hey, looks like my number has come up for gears, so here we go... 4.88 or 5.29?

I'm an 3rd gen AT with about 1000lb extra weight, but running 32s right now. Planning on 33's when they are cooked.

I do a lot of highway miles to get where I want to go, and lots of long hills at altitude.

I'm leaning towards 5.29 because of weight, but if I'm never gonna go over 33's, should I be considering 4.88?

I want to cruise easily on highway, and be able to accelerate up a hill at over 50mph. Both of which are currently impossible.

 

Hows it going everyone. I found this thread and started reading from page one. After 19 pages my eyes are about to buuuust. Bouncing back from the begging and end of thread. Maybe i haven't read deep enough but i am looking for some guidance for my situation to see if one of yall can point me in the right direction.

I am located in central Texas (San Antonio)

I am about to get a 2020 OR DCLB AT (Trading my 2nd gen, which has not giving me any issues what so ever) and considering getting it re geared. I know my set up will change overtime but what i want to do is eventually get 33's (dont want to go over that) and a nice plush 2.5 coil over suspension upgrade. Big bend trips / beach trips / camper is what i am going to be doing with these vehicle, as well as my DD. i work from home so i dont commute often but its all HIGHWAY around here.

want some advice on a few things;

-Is there only a few suppliers that supply these gears? If so, where can i purchase them? Any local shops around central TX sell them?
-Anyone know a shop/guy that does it in the central TX area? or will i have to travel out of state?

And a recommendation for either 4.88 or 5.29 would be greatly appreciated based on what i will be using it for.

Thanks in advance fellas

 

I'm your guy for Cen Tex installs. Check out Triple C Chop Shop on FB and IG for the work I've done. Here's this past weekends Tacoma 8.75" elocker and 8" clam regear to 5.29.

 

Sweet dude! ill send you a PM

 

5.29s for sure.